Exploring Bahrain's 'Little India' in Manama. Sophie Prideaux / The National
Exploring Bahrain's 'Little India' in Manama. Sophie Prideaux / The National
Exploring Bahrain's 'Little India' in Manama. Sophie Prideaux / The National
Exploring Bahrain's 'Little India' in Manama. Sophie Prideaux / The National

Discovering the old and new in Manama, Bahrain


Sophie Prideaux
  • English
  • Arabic

Why Bahrain?

It may be small, but when it comes to history, Bahrain punches well above its weight. Now home to two Unesco World Heritage Sites, this archipelago seamlessly juxtaposes the old and the new.

Although the flight time between the UAE and Bahrain is only an hour, a glance out of the window on your approach will leave you feeling as though you've ventured much further from home. The Arabian Gulf below is a camouflage of turquoise and emerald green, broken up by a dozen or so white-sanded islands.

The tiny nation also has a thriving food and arts scene and a colourful history, making it the perfect place to spend a weekend exploring.

The Ritz-Carlton Bahrain is a great base for exploring. Courtesy: Ritz-Carlton Bahrain
The Ritz-Carlton Bahrain is a great base for exploring. Courtesy: Ritz-Carlton Bahrain

A comfortable bed

The Ritz-Carlton Bahrain is something of a veteran when it comes to the country's luxury hotels. The resort boasts 11 restaurants, a shopping arcade, its own private island and a resident flock of flamingos, making it tough to tear yourself away. Still, it's a 10-minute drive into the heart of Manama, the country's capital, making he Ritz-Carlton a great base from which to explore. The 245-room hotel is set within 20 acres of lush gardens, complete with winding paths and a jogging track, while its private beach has several water sports options. Double rooms cost from Dh1,179 a night.

For something a little different, The Merchants House has just opened in the heart of Manama's old town. The Campbell Gray property is Bahrain's first luxury boutique hotel, offering 46 spacious, open-plan suites. Rooms start from Dh1,040 per night.

Inside The House of Coffee in old Muharraq. Sophie Prideaux / The National
Inside The House of Coffee in old Muharraq. Sophie Prideaux / The National

Find your feet

At just 765 square kilometres, Bahrain is one of the smallest nations in Asia, so tourists can cover some serious ground during a short trip. To really get a feel for the country and its rich history, start with a wander through Muharraq. Connected to the capital by a 20-minute drive and a number of bridges, this older, sleepier district is a warren of cultural discoveries. The area's traditional houses are a highlight – they have been lovingly restored to pay homage to the residents and industries they would have previously served. From the House of Coffee to the place where women would have once embroidered traditional thobes, each intricate doorway reveals the story of years gone by.

Bahrain Fort is one of two UNESCO World Heritage sites in Bahrain, and dates back to the 16th century. Sophie Prideaux / The National
Bahrain Fort is one of two UNESCO World Heritage sites in Bahrain, and dates back to the 16th century. Sophie Prideaux / The National

Next on your list should be a visit to Bahrain Fort, a majestic structure that sits at the heart of what would once have been the capital of the ancient Dilmun empire. Built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, this Unesco World Heritage Site is beautifully preserved, and offers a window into the past that is wonderfully framed by Manama's modern skyline. Learn more about the Dilmun empire with a visit to the Bahrain National Museum, including how the mysterious burial mounds that still dominate the landscape to the north of the island came to be.  

Once you’ve learnt about the history of this Arab nation, visit Block 338 to get a feel for its more modern side. This small but lively pocket of Manama is bursting with art, cafes and upmarket eateries. With graffiti-lined walkways and diners spilling into the streets, its a great spot to explore, especially in the evening.

Manama Souq in the capital. Reuters
Manama Souq in the capital. Reuters

Meet the locals

There is no better way to see Manama's labyrinthine markets than through the eyes of a local. Tour company Localppl offers a number of personalised excursions, each operated by extremely proud Bahrainis who will pack you with as much knowledge, food and adventure as they can manage in the two-and-a-half-hour timeslot. My guide, Hessa, grew up navigating the streets she shows me around, and energetically pulls me into tiny stalls and cafes to introduce me to shopkeepers whom she has known since she was a little girl, each keen to show off their wares.

Exploring Bahrain's 'Little India' in Manama. Sophie Prideaux / The National
Exploring Bahrain's 'Little India' in Manama. Sophie Prideaux / The National

Manama's sprawling souq, with the historic Bab Al Bahrain sitting proudly at its entrance, is not only a treasure trove for shoppers, but packed full of history and diversity. From Bahrain's "Little India" to its  colourful Hindu temple, a few hours exploring here is the best way to discover the people at the heart of this kingdom. 

Book a table

Bahrain's reputation as a foodie hotspot has grown steadily in recent years and, for such a small nation, it has more than its fair share of impressive dining options. For fine dining, the tasting menu at Plums, the Ritz-Carlton Bahrain's steakhouse, is unbeatable. Headed by celebrity chef Yann Bernard Lejard, this experimental and sophisticated spot offers a dining experience you won't forget in a hurry. The resort's Mexican restaurant, the colourful Cantina Kahlo, is a great casual dining spot serving up authentic street food dishes inspired by wholesome family recipes.

A traditional lunch at Haji’s Café, one of Bahrain's oldest eateries. Sophie Prideaux / The National
A traditional lunch at Haji’s Café, one of Bahrain's oldest eateries. Sophie Prideaux / The National

For a bustling Bahraini lunch spot, join the locals at Haji's Cafe on the edge of Manama Souq. This fuss-free spot has been running since 1950, and its history is visible in the photos that adorn the walls. Go here hungry and take the recommendations of the friendly staff.

And for a stylish, late-night vibe, Block 338's Hazel Rooftop Lounge offers stunning views of the Bahrain skyline while serving up sushi, tapas and sharing plates. It also offers regular live music, so can get crowded, especially at weekends.

Shoppers’ paradise

Bahrain has more than its fair share of glitzy malls, bursting with the usual international suspects and high-end luxury labels. But if you're after a more authentic shopping experience, take a trip to Al Aali Mall in the Seef area of Manama. Here, you'll discover a host of homegrown brands. From traditional fabrics to jewellery and coffee shops, this is the place to discover something new.

Bahrain is a great spot for pearl diving, with tourists able to keep any treasure they find. Sophie Prideaux / The National
Bahrain is a great spot for pearl diving, with tourists able to keep any treasure they find. Sophie Prideaux / The National

Don’t miss

If you're looking for somewhere to relax, head to Jarada Island. This tiny sandbar sits in the middle of the Arabian Gulf and can be reached only by private boat. The strip of land is so small, it disappears at high tide, but when conditions allow, it's a great place to spend a few hours snorkelling or diving for oysters.  

What to avoid

Unless you love the roar of Formula One engines, you might want to avoid visiting during the annual Grand Prix. ­Bahrain kicks off the racing season usually in March or April, when thousands of fans descend on the small Kingdom. It also means hotel and flight prices go up, so it's worth keeping an eye on the F1 calendar.

Getting there

Gulf Air operates regular flights from Dubai and Abu Dhabi to Bahrain, with fares starting from Dh810. Once you get to the airport, it’s a 20-minute taxi ride into Manama.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

FIXTURES (all times UAE)

Sunday
Brescia v Lazio (3.30pm)
SPAL v Verona (6pm)
Genoa v Sassuolo (9pm)
AS Roma v Torino (11.45pm)

Monday
Bologna v Fiorentina (3.30pm)
AC Milan v Sampdoria (6pm)
Juventus v Cagliari (6pm)
Atalanta v Parma (6pm)
Lecce v Udinese (9pm)
Napoli v Inter Milan (11.45pm)

The Prison Letters of Nelson Mandela
Edited by Sahm Venter
Published by Liveright

Company%20Profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20myZoi%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202021%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Syed%20Ali%2C%20Christian%20Buchholz%2C%20Shanawaz%20Rouf%2C%20Arsalan%20Siddiqui%2C%20Nabid%20Hassan%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20UAE%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20staff%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2037%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Initial%20undisclosed%20funding%20from%20SC%20Ventures%3B%20second%20round%20of%20funding%20totalling%20%2414%20million%20from%20a%20consortium%20of%20SBI%2C%20a%20Japanese%20VC%20firm%2C%20and%20SC%20Venture%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
MATCH INFO

Juventus 1 (Dybala 45')

Lazio 3 (Alberto 16', Lulic 73', Cataldi 90 4')

Red card: Rodrigo Bentancur (Juventus)

The specs: 2019 Mercedes-Benz C200 Coupe


Price, base: Dh201,153
Engine: 2.0-litre turbocharged four-cylinder
Transmission: Nine-speed automatic
Power: 204hp @ 5,800rpm
Torque: 300Nm @ 1,600rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 6.7L / 100km

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
If you go

The flights
Emirates and Etihad fly direct to Nairobi, with fares starting from Dh1,695. The resort can be reached from Nairobi via a 35-minute flight from Wilson Airport or Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, or by road, which takes at least three hours.

The rooms
Rooms at Fairmont Mount Kenya range from Dh1,870 per night for a deluxe room to Dh11,000 per night for the William Holden Cottage.

BIGGEST CYBER SECURITY INCIDENTS IN RECENT TIMES

SolarWinds supply chain attack: Came to light in December 2020 but had taken root for several months, compromising major tech companies, governments and its entities

Microsoft Exchange server exploitation: March 2021; attackers used a vulnerability to steal emails

Kaseya attack: July 2021; ransomware hit perpetrated REvil, resulting in severe downtime for more than 1,000 companies

Log4j breach: December 2021; attackers exploited the Java-written code to inflitrate businesses and governments

Sole survivors
  • Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
  • George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
  • Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
  • Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
 
Started: 2021
 
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
 
Based: Tunisia 
 
Sector: Water technology 
 
Number of staff: 22 
 
Investment raised: $4 million 
Dust and sand storms compared

Sand storm

  • Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
  • Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
  • Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
  • Travel distance: Limited 
  • Source: Open desert areas with strong winds

Dust storm

  • Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
  • Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
  • Duration: Can linger for days
  • Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
  • Source: Can be carried from distant regions
if you go

The flights

Air Astana flies direct from Dubai to Almaty from Dh2,440 per person return, and to Astana (via Almaty) from Dh2,930 return, both including taxes. 

The hotels

Rooms at the Ritz-Carlton Almaty cost from Dh1,944 per night including taxes; and in Astana the new Ritz-Carlton Astana (www.marriott) costs from Dh1,325; alternatively, the new St Regis Astana costs from Dh1,458 per night including taxes. 

When to visit

March-May and September-November

Visas

Citizens of many countries, including the UAE do not need a visa to enter Kazakhstan for up to 30 days. Contact the nearest Kazakhstan embassy or consulate.

MATCH INFO

Norwich 0

Watford 2 (Deulofeu 2', Gray 52')

Red card: Christian Kabasele (WatforD)

Teri%20Baaton%20Mein%20Aisa%20Uljha%20Jiya
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirectors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Amit%20Joshi%20and%20Aradhana%20Sah%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECast%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Shahid%20Kapoor%2C%20Kriti%20Sanon%2C%20Dharmendra%2C%20Dimple%20Kapadia%2C%20Rakesh%20Bedi%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Your rights as an employee

The government has taken an increasingly tough line against companies that fail to pay employees on time. Three years ago, the Cabinet passed a decree allowing the government to halt the granting of work permits to companies with wage backlogs.

The new measures passed by the Cabinet in 2016 were an update to the Wage Protection System, which is in place to track whether a company pays its employees on time or not.

If wages are 10 days late, the new measures kick in and the company is alerted it is in breach of labour rules. If wages remain unpaid for a total of 16 days, the authorities can cancel work permits, effectively shutting off operations. Fines of up to Dh5,000 per unpaid employee follow after 60 days.

Despite those measures, late payments remain an issue, particularly in the construction sector. Smaller contractors, such as electrical, plumbing and fit-out businesses, often blame the bigger companies that hire them for wages being late.

The authorities have urged employees to report their companies at the labour ministry or Tawafuq service centres — there are 15 in Abu Dhabi.

Company Profile

Company name: Big Farm Brothers

Started: September 2020

Founders: Vishal Mahajan and Navneet Kaur

Based: Dubai Investment Park 1

Industry: food and agriculture

Initial investment: $205,000

Current staff: eight to 10

Future plan: to expand to other GCC markets

MOUNTAINHEAD REVIEW

Starring: Ramy Youssef, Steve Carell, Jason Schwartzman

Director: Jesse Armstrong

Rating: 3.5/5

Company%20Profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDirect%20Debit%20System%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Sept%202017%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20UAE%20with%20a%20subsidiary%20in%20the%20UK%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20FinTech%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Undisclosed%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Elaine%20Jones%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20employees%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%208%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
In-demand jobs and monthly salaries
  • Technology expert in robotics and automation: Dh20,000 to Dh40,000 
  • Energy engineer: Dh25,000 to Dh30,000 
  • Production engineer: Dh30,000 to Dh40,000 
  • Data-driven supply chain management professional: Dh30,000 to Dh50,000 
  • HR leader: Dh40,000 to Dh60,000 
  • Engineering leader: Dh30,000 to Dh55,000 
  • Project manager: Dh55,000 to Dh65,000 
  • Senior reservoir engineer: Dh40,000 to Dh55,000 
  • Senior drilling engineer: Dh38,000 to Dh46,000 
  • Senior process engineer: Dh28,000 to Dh38,000 
  • Senior maintenance engineer: Dh22,000 to Dh34,000 
  • Field engineer: Dh6,500 to Dh7,500
  • Field supervisor: Dh9,000 to Dh12,000
  • Field operator: Dh5,000 to Dh7,000
PROFILE

Name: Enhance Fitness 

Year started: 2018 

Based: UAE 

Employees: 200 

Amount raised: $3m 

Investors: Global Ventures and angel investors 

Labour dispute

The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.


- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law 

PROFILE OF HALAN

Started: November 2017

Founders: Mounir Nakhla, Ahmed Mohsen and Mohamed Aboulnaga

Based: Cairo, Egypt

Sector: transport and logistics

Size: 150 employees

Investment: approximately $8 million

Investors include: Singapore’s Battery Road Digital Holdings, Egypt’s Algebra Ventures, Uber co-founder and former CTO Oscar Salazar

Volvo ES90 Specs

Engine: Electric single motor (96kW), twin motor (106kW) and twin motor performance (106kW)

Power: 333hp, 449hp, 680hp

Torque: 480Nm, 670Nm, 870Nm

On sale: Later in 2025 or early 2026, depending on region

Price: Exact regional pricing TBA

COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Haltia.ai%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202023%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ECo-founders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Arto%20Bendiken%20and%20Talal%20Thabet%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dubai%2C%20UAE%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20AI%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20employees%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2041%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20About%20%241.7%20million%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Self%2C%20family%20and%20friends%26nbsp%3B%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Jetour T1 specs

Engine: 2-litre turbocharged

Power: 254hp

Torque: 390Nm

Price: From Dh126,000

Available: Now

COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Heather, the Totality
Matthew Weiner,
Canongate 

The specs: 2018 Nissan Altima


Price, base / as tested: Dh78,000 / Dh97,650

Engine: 2.5-litre in-line four-cylinder

Power: 182hp @ 6,000rpm

Torque: 244Nm @ 4,000rpm

Transmission: Continuously variable tranmission

Fuel consumption, combined: 7.6L / 100km

The biog

Favourite colour: Brown

Favourite Movie: Resident Evil

Hobbies: Painting, Cooking, Imitating Voices

Favourite food: Pizza

Trivia: Was the voice of three characters in the Emirati animation, Shaabiyat Al Cartoon

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Greatest Royal Rumble results

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AJ Styles remains WWE World Heavyweight champion after he and Shinsuke Nakamura are both counted out

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Braun Strowman won the 50-man Royal Rumble by eliminating Big Cass last

The alternatives

• Founded in 2014, Telr is a payment aggregator and gateway with an office in Silicon Oasis. It’s e-commerce entry plan costs Dh349 monthly (plus VAT). QR codes direct customers to an online payment page and merchants can generate payments through messaging apps.

• Business Bay’s Pallapay claims 40,000-plus active merchants who can invoice customers and receive payment by card. Fees range from 1.99 per cent plus Dh1 per transaction depending on payment method and location, such as online or via UAE mobile.

• Tap started in May 2013 in Kuwait, allowing Middle East businesses to bill, accept, receive and make payments online “easier, faster and smoother” via goSell and goCollect. It supports more than 10,000 merchants. Monthly fees range from US$65-100, plus card charges of 2.75-3.75 per cent and Dh1.2 per sale.

2checkout’s “all-in-one payment gateway and merchant account” accepts payments in 200-plus markets for 2.4-3.9 per cent, plus a Dh1.2-Dh1.8 currency conversion charge. The US provider processes online shop and mobile transactions and has 17,000-plus active digital commerce users.

• PayPal is probably the best-known online goods payment method - usually used for eBay purchases -  but can be used to receive funds, providing everyone’s signed up. Costs from 2.9 per cent plus Dh1.2 per transaction.