Eight key make-up looks spotted at haute couture week shows

From bold and sassy lips to a sweep of sparkle, there were plenty of fresh beauty ideas

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While Paris Haute Couture Week is undeniably about the clothes, the make-up looks were also created to complement the handmade attire, and play an important role in crafting a refined just-woke-up-like-this allure.

Here are some of the key beauty trends spotted on the runways.

Zuhair Murad

A sultry smoked eye at Zuhair Murad for autumn/winter 2022 haute couture. Getty

At Zuhair Murad, Sofia Schwarzkopf-Tilbury, of make-up house Charlotte Tilbury, created a fresh look that was both natural and sophisticated. Starting with Tilbury’s famous dewy skin and its lit-from-within effect, models were given a sweep of soft mocha tones right across the eye socket. Teamed with barely-there blush and a pinky-nude lipstick, it carried just the right amount of sultriness.


A sassy lip at Schiaparelli for autumn/winter 2022 haute couture. Photo: Schiaparelli

What better way to showcase the surreal beauty of the clothes than with a sizzling orange lipstick? With a vampish slice of inky black eyeliner sweeping out to the temple, the lipstick varied in tone from pumpkin to fiery tiger.


Soft black eyeliner and light make-up at Chanel. EPA

The severe black eyeliner favoured by Karl Lagerfeld now arrives as something much softer under present creative director Virginie Viard. Eyes are still lined, but now in a less defined way, as if smudged with the fingers. Blusher is light and high on the cheekbones, and lips are given the barest hint of gloss.


At the Valentino show, many models had their eyebrows bleached to be invisible. Photo: AFT

For its show on the Spanish Steps in Rome — where the first ever Valentino couture show took place — the make-up had two very different moods. The first was a daring no-eyebrow look, with the models' own brows covered with make-up or bleach — a surprisingly different direction for couture beauty. The second look, meanwhile, was even more out there, seeing models walk the runway with a full face of glitter. Completely covering their face and neck, it gave a slightly alien feel to the show.

Armani Prive

At Armani Prive, models had dots placed in the middle of the upper and lower lashes, giving a curious, doll-like effect. Getty

With its focus on discreet luxury, naturally the make-up at the Armani Prive couture show followed suit. Clean skin was highlighted with a soft sweep of blusher, while eyes had dots applied to the centre of both upper and lower lids, creating a slightly disconcerting doll-like effect, which suited the clothes to perfection.

Viktor & Rolf

Models wore retro 1980s make-up on the haute couture runway at Viktor & Rolf. AP

The boldest make-up was seen at Viktor & Rolf, where the 1980s were resurrected in full force. Pale blue eyeshadow smothered the whole upper lid right out to the end of the eyebrow, and lips were given a slick of zippy red lipstick. Brilliantly retro in feel, it perfectly suited the off-kilter thinking of the Dutch design duo, and the oversized clothes on offer.


Silvery eyelids at Fendi haute couture. Getty

At Fendi, the make-up is kept very simple, with only a slick of silver across the eyelids. With the rest of the face almost devoid of make-up, this solitary smudge of glitter above the eyes suddenly feels a real statement.

Georges Hobeika

Eyes were given a dramatic double flick at Georges Hobeika. Photos: Georges Hobeika

For his autumn/winter 2022 show, Hobeika opted for a double flick of eyeliner, and the soft baby hairs around models' hairlines sculpted into finger waves. This blend of opposites — a hard eye versus a soft hairstyle — was a good way to echo what was happening elsewhere in the show. With Hobeika bringing his son into the business, with this as the first jointly designed collection, the mix of make-up styles was a clever way to bridge the mix of ideas in the clothes.

Updated: July 10, 2022, 1:56 PM