"Let's see you whip that cream!" Anup Chaubal shakes his head when he remembers the hazing that novice chefs received from their superiors in the kitchens of Mumbai's Taj Mahal Palace & Tower.
"There was only a 40-litre mixer and a five-litre mixer. Both were basically unusable," recalls Chaubal, the executive pastry chef at the Beach Rotana Hotel. "The only solution was to whip the cream by hand with a whisk. But the thing about whipping cream is you cannot stop. That whisk goes from your left hand to your right hand, back to your left. After doing this for a few months, you stop going to the gym."
Chaubal, who has gone on to whip (with professional mixers, thankfully) thousands of litres of cream in his 15 years as a pastry chef, confesses that "later I would do the same thing to new, incoming chefs".
Cream is the boon and the bane of a baker's life. The foundation of so many desserts - from mousse and ganache to ice cream and custard - this satiny liquid is both essential and temperamental. Whip it a minute too long, you've got butter; not quite long enough, soup. Composed of butterfat skimmed from the top of whole milk, cream comes in different grades based on fat content. When you beat air into cream with more than 30 per cent fat - light whipping cream clocks in at 35 per cent - it changes into a soft solid and doubles in volume.
Of course, cream isn't only about mounds, clouds and dollops. It can be used, explains Chaubal, in its liquid form: heated and poured over chopped chocolate to make a ganache filling, or combined with eggs and sugar and baked as crème brulée or crème caramel.
One of Chaubal's greatest cream challenges came when he was working at another hotel. Would he make a cheesecake without cream cheese or eggs? a customer asked. "For some reason, I thought of the tres leches cake, the most popular dessert in Puerto Rico," recalls Chaubal. "It's a sponge cake that you drown in sweetened condensed milk, cream and evaporated milk."
With this as inspiration, the chef combined sweetened condensed milk, 35 per cent whipping cream and yogurt and poured the mixture into a glass. He had to leave the kitchen before his experiment came out of the oven, however. "When I returned, an intern had removed it without checking to see if it was done."
Thinking it a failure, Chaubal put the cream in the refrigerator anyway. "The next day it was solid as a brulée!" he laughs. The chef took it a step further, adding mango purée to the creamy mix and layering it with chopped fresh mango. It's still on the menu at the Beach Rotana.
You don't even need a mixer for this. Just whisk the three dairy products with the purée, bake briefly and refrigerate. Do invest the hour and a half to cook down the unsweetened mango juice for the fresh mango sauce. The tang against the sweet is worth it. If you're wondering what to bring out at midnight on New Year's Eve, this adaptation of Chaubal's elegant, simple dessert would do nicely. The recipe makes six medium servings or 10 small ones, depending on the size of your glass or ramekin, and the quantities can easily be doubled.
Ingredients
1 litre unsweetened mango juice
400g plain, full-cream yogurt
300g sweetened condensed milk
150g mango purée, canned*
250ml whipping cream (35%)
2 nearly ripe mangos
* found in the canned fruit aisle
Method
Preheat the oven to 140°C. Start with the sauce: pour the mango juice into a deep saucepan and begin to cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally while you're working on the cream.
In a large bowl, whisk the yogurt smooth. Add the sweetened condensed milk, whisking to combine completely, before whisking in the mango purée. Slowly add the cream and continue to whisk until all the elements are thoroughly blended. Pour half the mango cream into a one-litre measuring cup with a spout. Set small, oven-proof glasses (no larger than 150ml capacity) or small ramekins on to a rimmed baking tray. Fill each two-thirds full with the mango cream (leaving room for the mango topping). Carefully place the tray in the oven. Bake for about 15 minutes. The cream should look shiny on top and not jiggle when the glasses are moved. Do not overbake. Set the tray on a rack to cool before placing glasses/ramekins in the refrigerator for at least four hours. Check the mango juice on the stove. It should - after 1½ hours - be reduced to about 200ml and thick enough to use as a sauce.
Peel and dice the two mangos and place in a small bowl. Add the reduced mango juice, stir and refrigerate. To serve, spoon the sauce atop the cream in each glass or ramekin.
UAE v West Indies
First ODI - Sunday, June 4
Second ODI - Tuesday, June 6
Third ODI - Friday, June 9
Matches at Sharjah Cricket Stadium. All games start at 4.30pm
UAE squad
Muhammad Waseem (captain), Aayan Khan, Adithya Shetty, Ali Naseer, Ansh Tandon, Aryansh Sharma, Asif Khan, Basil Hameed, Ethan D’Souza, Fahad Nawaz, Jonathan Figy, Junaid Siddique, Karthik Meiyappan, Lovepreet Singh, Matiullah, Mohammed Faraazuddin, Muhammad Jawadullah, Rameez Shahzad, Rohan Mustafa, Sanchit Sharma, Vriitya Aravind, Zahoor Khan
The schedule
December 5 - 23: Shooting competition, Al Dhafra Shooting Club
December 9 - 24: Handicrafts competition, from 4pm until 10pm, Heritage Souq
December 11 - 20: Dates competition, from 4pm
December 12 - 20: Sour milk competition
December 13: Falcon beauty competition
December 14 and 20: Saluki races
December 15: Arabian horse races, from 4pm
December 16 - 19: Falconry competition
December 18: Camel milk competition, from 7.30 - 9.30 am
December 20 and 21: Sheep beauty competition, from 10am
December 22: The best herd of 30 camels
The specs
Powertrain: Single electric motor
Power: 201hp
Torque: 310Nm
Transmission: Single-speed auto
Battery: 53kWh lithium-ion battery pack (GS base model); 70kWh battery pack (GF)
Touring range: 350km (GS); 480km (GF)
Price: From Dh129,900 (GS); Dh149,000 (GF)
On sale: Now
Company profile
Name: Maly Tech
Started: 2023
Founder: Mo Ibrahim
Based: Dubai International Financial Centre
Sector: FinTech
Funds raised: $1.6 million
Current number of staff: 15
Investment stage: Pre-seed, planning first seed round
Investors: GCC-based angel investors
THREE
Director: Nayla Al Khaja
Starring: Jefferson Hall, Faten Ahmed, Noura Alabed, Saud Alzarooni
Rating: 3.5/5
Bahrain GP
Friday qualifying: 7pm (8pm UAE)
Saturday race: 7pm (UAE)
TV: BeIN Sports
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: SmartCrowd
Started: 2018
Founder: Siddiq Farid and Musfique Ahmed
Based: Dubai
Sector: FinTech / PropTech
Initial investment: $650,000
Current number of staff: 35
Investment stage: Series A
Investors: Various institutional investors and notable angel investors (500 MENA, Shurooq, Mada, Seedstar, Tricap)
'Texas Chainsaw Massacre'
Rating: 1 out of 4
Running time: 81 minutes
Director: David Blue Garcia
Starring: Sarah Yarkin, Elsie Fisher, Mark Burnham
MAIN CARD
Bantamweight 56.4kg
Abrorbek Madiminbekov v Mehdi El Jamari
Super heavyweight 94+kg
Adnan Mohammad v Mohammed Ajaraam
Lightweight 60kg
Zakaria Eljamari v Faridoon Alik Zai
Light heavyweight 81.4kg
Mahmood Amin v Taha Marrouni
Light welterweight 64.5kg
Siyovush Gulmamadov v Nouredine Samir
Light heavyweight 81.4kg
Ilyass Habibali v Haroun Baka
Tips for travelling while needing dialysis
- Inform your doctor about your plans.
- Ask about your treatment so you know how it works.
- Pay attention to your health if you travel to a hot destination.
- Plan your trip well.
RESULT
Kolkata Knight Riders 169-7 (20 ovs)
Rajasthan Royals 144-4 (20 ovs)
Kolkata win by 25 runs
Next match
Sunrisers Hyderabad v Kolkata Knight Riders, Friday, 5.30pm
Our legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Company Profile
Company name: Namara
Started: June 2022
Founder: Mohammed Alnamara
Based: Dubai
Sector: Microfinance
Current number of staff: 16
Investment stage: Series A
Investors: Family offices
Federer's 19 grand slam titles
Australian Open (5 titles) - 2004 bt Marat Safin; 2006 bt Marcos Baghdatis; 2007 bt Fernando Gonzalez; 2010 bt Andy Murray; 2017 bt Rafael Nadal
French Open (1 title) - 2009 bt Robin Soderling
Wimbledon (8 titles) - 2003 bt Mark Philippoussis; 2004 bt Andy Roddick; 2005 bt Andy Roddick; 2006 bt Rafael Nadal; 2007 bt Rafael Nadal; 2009 bt Andy Roddick; 2012 bt Andy Murray; 2017 bt Marin Cilic
US Open (5 titles) - 2004 bt Lleyton Hewitt; 2005 bt Andre Agassi; 2006 bt Andy Roddick; 2007 bt Novak Djokovic; 2008 bt Andy Murray
UK - UAE Trade
Total trade in goods and services (exports plus imports) between the UK and the UAE in 2022 was £21.6 billion (Dh98 billion).
This is an increase of 63.0 per cent or £8.3 billion in current prices from the four quarters to the end of 2021.
The UAE was the UK’s 19th largest trading partner in the four quarters to the end of Q4 2022 accounting for 1.3 per cent of total UK trade.
MATCH INFO
UAE Division 1
Abu Dhabi Harlequins 12-24 Abu Dhabi Saracens
ENGLAND SQUAD
Goalkeepers: Jack Butland, Jordan Pickford, Nick Pope
Defenders: John Stones, Harry Maguire, Phil Jones, Kyle Walker, Kieran Trippier, Gary Cahill, Ashley Young, Danny Rose, Trent Alexander-Arnold
Midfielders: Eric Dier, Jordan Henderson, Dele Alli, Jesse Lingard, Raheem Sterling, Ruben Loftus-Cheek, Fabian Delph
Forwards: Harry Kane, Jamie Vardy, Marcus Rashford, Danny Welbeck
Pad Man
Dir: R Balki
Starring: Akshay Kumar, Sonam Kapoor, Radhika Apte
Three-and-a-half stars