Sophie Jowett nibbles delicately on a tiered tower of dainty cakes and fruity mini-tarts.
The 25-year-old British flight attendant likes nothing better after landing in Dubai than indulging in an afternoon tea – much to the bemusement of her friend, Tedd Bernard, who looks around in search of more substantial, manly fare.
“I like trying different afternoon teas,” says Jowett. “It is nice to experience different settings. When my mum came to visit, I took her to one and she loved it. I would rather do an afternoon tea than a dinner. I have been going to them since I was little and love doing girlie, luxurious things.”
Bernard, from Miami, a 28-year-old manager of an electronics firm, had never even heard of the time-honoured British tradition of afternoon tea until Jowett introduced him to it.
“I would not do it on my own,” he admits.
They are in the grandiose beaux-arts setting of Sidra patisserie at St Regis Dubai, enjoying a ceremony that originated 3,000 miles away and 150 years ago, when the Duchess of Bedford could not wait until dinner time to eat.
Legend has it Queen Victoria’s lady-in-waiting began regularly snacking on sandwiches, tea and cakes in her chamber at about 4pm each day, then started inviting friends to join her as a convivial way to pass the time.
The tradition quickly caught on around the globe – and is so hugely popular in the UAE that chefs strive to come up with increasingly inventive new options to lure customers and beat the competition.
Bernard might be interested to learn there are gentlemen’s afternoon teas such as the one at Reform Social & Grill at The Lakes, Dubai. There is also an Ottoman-themed afternoon tea at Zabeel Saray on Palm Jumeirah, plus a variety of children’s options, featuring burger-shaped macaroons and cookie-flavoured fries, fashion-themed teas with cakes shaped like handbags and stilettos, and even a dim sum afternoon tea. Traditionalists, however, dismiss such gimmick-laden innovations.
“These have nothing to do with traditions,” says Gary Williams, principal at the British Butler Institute, which schools butlers from around the world in the sacrosanct art of serving the perfect afternoon tea.
Nibbles should be presented on fine bone china, he explains, and the order the food is served in is crucial. Sandwiches are first, filled with wafer-thin slices of cucumber, smoked salmon or egg and cress, and cut into fingers or tiny triangles – crusts off, of course. They are followed by warm scones, with clotted cream and jam, and finally a range of cakes and pastries. It is all accompanied by a selection of fine, loose-leaf teas.
Never stir your tea – it should be “folded” from 6 to 12 o’clock without the spoon touching the sides. In addition, the cup and saucer should never be more than 12 inches apart.
And woe betide anyone who calls it “high tea” – this marks you out as a commoner. High tea was a meal traditionally eaten by servants between 5pm and 7pm, consisting of a meat, thick slices of bread and cheese.
It is thought it was called high tea because of the height of the table on which it was served, while afternoon tea, usually served on coffee tables, was sometimes called low tea.
Some venues use the names interchangeably, however, while Fortnum & Mason in Dubai, that bastion of British etiquette, serves an authentic, traditional afternoon tea as well as a high tea that includes options such as Welsh rarebit and lobster omelette, plus a savoury afternoon tea with leek and Parmesan tart and smoked salmon blinis.
That is all well and good, says Justin Galea, director of food and beverages at Le Méridien Abu Dhabi, but “if you are putting spring rolls and mini-burgers on the menu, it has gone too far. That is when you lose sight of what the tradition is”.
Hakkasan’s interpretation of an afternoon tea – pumpkin and chicken dim sum followed by tarts and a Chinese and Taiwanese tea selection – might not, therefore, pass muster.
Le Méridien Abu Dhabi itself previously offered an Arabic twist on afternoon tea from French patissier Eric Lanlard, with bee- pollen scones, date cake, homemade rose-petal jam and hints of cardamom and cumin.
A playful local influence like this is fine, says Galea, as long as chefs do not stray too far from the original spirit of afternoon tea – a lazy few hours to indulge with friends and be pampered.
“I’m a traditionalist,” he says. “It is more of a ritual and something to savour and pass the afternoon. It should be very decadent, dainty and indulgent.”
The best kind of afternoon tea should leave you feeling slightly overstuffed, he suggests.
“I always believe you should struggle to finish and leave slightly defeated,” he says. “It is good etiquette to offer to guests to take the remainder.”
As well as the scone – which, incidentally, should be broken in half, not cut – the star of afternoon tea is, of course, the drink that gives it its name.
At TWG Tea in Yas Mall, Abu Dhabi, there are about 300 varieties to choose from in a package that includes a toasted sandwich, two scones and macaroons.
Tea specialist Sayog Gurung hails from Darjeeling, a region that produces “the champagne of teas” – but he was unaware of the afternoon tea tradition until he arrived in Abu Dhabi.
“In India, we have our own kind of tea time, with savoury snacks,” he says. “I knew all about the process of growing and producing tea but it was the first time I had heard of this tradition.”
Demas Latief, the chef de cuisine in the St Regis Dubai, says the market is becoming increasingly competitive, with the need to constantly reinvent offerings.
He is one of 25 chefs working for the Habtoor City bakery across three hotels, tasked with coming up with evermore elaborate concoctions.
The Sidra patisserie, for example, revamps its afternoon tea every three months.
“Dubai always demands something new and creative so that customers do not get bored,” says Latief. “We have to be incredibly competitive.
“It is still mostly groups of ladies who come for the ambience, the presentation and the quality of ingredients.”
Here is our pick of the some of the best afternoon teas:
On a budget: TWG Tea in Yas Mall, Dh78
Choose from an extensive range of teas to sip with a toasted cheese sandwich, two freshly baked scones and three macaroons. There is no fancy plate stand but where else can you enjoy high tea and get change from Dh100?
Best of British: Fortnum & Mason, Dubai Mall. From Dh245
You get five sandwiches, filled with smoked salmon, coronation chicken and cucumber with mint butter, followed by warm scones with lemon curd and a choice of preserves, and more cakes than you can manage – all served on delightful bone china.
Most decadent: Sahn Eddar, Burj al Arab, Dubai, Dh510
The dainty sandwiches, French pastries and cakes just keep coming in this indulgent, seven-course spread. It served overlooking Jumeirah beach, while a piano player serenades diners. There is even a carvery course, with roast beef and mashed potato, which admittedly is not strictly traditional – but who needs breakfast, lunch or dinner after this extravaganza? Choose from oolong, sencha, Earl Grey and chocolate teas.
Best view: Atmosphere, Burj Khalifa, Dubai, Dh580
Served on the 122nd floor, you can enjoy the same view as the observatory – with cakes thrown in to boot. Look out over the city from a window seat while enjoying finger sandwiches, a carvery and all the pastries you can manage, washed down by a wide selection of hot and iced teas.
For tea lovers: Tea Lounge, St Regis Abu Dhabi. From Dh150
This Saturday-afternoon tea ritual requires that you make an effort and dress up for the occasion. In return, you can enjoy elegant finger sandwiches, scones and dainty cakes. A tea sommelier is on hand to guide you through the options, including a house blend. Treats include brioche quail’s egg-mayonnaise sandwiches and curried chicken and apple rolls.
Traditional Arabic: Al Bayt, The Palace Downtown Dubai. From Dh130
You could go for the bog-standard smoked salmon and prawn cocktail spread, which is a bargain at Dh130. But why would you when you can indulge in camel-milk pistachio crème brûlée, chocolate qatayef velveteen pancakes and rose-petal cheesecake? The savoury selection includes kofta finger sandwiches, chicken shawarma and a millefeuille of aubergine. Finish off with Moroccan mint or Weekend in Dubai tea.
Children’s choice: Al Samar lounge, Mina A’Salam, Dubai, Dh100 (Dh200 for adults)
In this topsy-turvy tea, kids can enjoy macaroons shaped like burgers, cookies that look like fries and ketchup and mustard bottles contain vanilla, strawberry and mango syrups. The pizza is topped with fruit and there is ice cream, jam sandwiches and brioche cupcakes with whipped cream cheese. Accompanying adults can indulge in a more grown-up version.
For men: Reform Social and Grill, Dubai. From Dh95
This 1940s-inspired spread, called the gentleman’s afternoon tea, has manly treats including Angus burgers, sausage rolls, steak pie and Yorkie chocolate-bar brownies. Served from Saturday to Thursday, diners can add cigars and spirits to feel even more masculine.
Gourmet option: Majlis, Rosewood Abu Dhabi. From Dh120
This huge spread includes Arabic flavours, classic English scones with clotted cream, burrata, aged balsamic focaccia and prawn rolls, followed by caramel millefeuille and bitter chocolate tart. The tea selection is just as impressive and includes black, white, herbal and green teas, including date-flavoured Ceylon and ginger brews.
artslife@thenational.ae
