Al Bateen Harbour might not be many people’s first thought when seeking out intriguing new dining options, rife as it is with dusty boats, old fishing shops and construction work. But hidden away inside Al Marasy, the glass-fronted apartment blocks that were stylistic forerunners to Al Bandar’s similarly reflective dwellings at the opposite corner of Abu Dhabi, the No Fifty Seven Boutique Cafe is worth the investigative wander.
Founded by Buthaina Al Mazrui and Alamira Noor Bani Hashim, the Emirati friends who are behind The Dinner Club by No 57, the cafe continues a homely, idiosyncratic vibe that their pioneering prior venture fostered. Inside, there are kitschy, loveable touches aplenty, from overflowing bookcases and an array of wall decor – including a bull’s skull – through to the slogan “Love & Lamb” at the bottom of our bill receipt. All of which heightened expectations for the food itself, which takes inspiration from the pair’s favourite dishes from around the world.
With just seven options, the “starters/sharing” selections went for quirky quality over cloying quantity. The standout, before and after tasting, was undoubtedly the deep-fried mac and cheese. The three rectangular breadcrumbed parcels of dairy-product-doused macaroni came with a tomato salsa and spinach dip; there was more than a hint of pea soup about the green condiment, while the tomato salsa acquitted itself adequately. The second trio of our first course, a set of three shrimp and mango rice-paper rolls with mini pots of peanut dipping sauce and a watery chilli concoction, wasn’t quite up to the same standard. Served deliberately cold, there were a couple of shrimps per large matchbox-sized portion and barely any discernible mango. Instead, a plethora of vegetables within completely overtook the headline flavours, while the sauce was more like a paste, turning dipping into an exercise in scraping and depositing.
Our mains defied conventional sizing logic. The beef and butternut-squash lasagne, with herb garlic bread, had a wonderful sweet tang and we could have eaten twice the amount. Any thoughts that the potato, bacon and caramelised onion quiche might be a light option, meanwhile, were scotched when a huge doorstep-sized slice was deposited on our table, accompanied by a veritable shrub of spinach leaves. Had we known, we might not have ordered a side of quite leafy creamed spinach.
The cafe prides itself on its desserts, none more so than the signature “ermahgerd” (say that out loud to get the meaning), a toffee crumble topped with cream and roasted marshmallows. The first few mouthfuls of topping were delectable, but a few spoonfuls later it began to become as saccharine as an icing-topped mound of sugar. They’d be better off trumpeting the signature virtues of the toffee skillet cookie – so called because it’s served in the skillet (accompanied by separate bowls of toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream). The gooey, melted dough simply has to be tasted; trust us, mere words won’t do it justice.
Much like the Arabian-tinted version of the Game of Thrones theme tune that played on repeat for the best part of an hour during our meal, No Fifty Seven is a sometimes perplexing proposition. Some will no doubt find the culinary experience hit-and-miss, but select your dishes wisely and you'll have good few reasons – albeit not 57 – for a return visit. The skillet cookie was certainly one of them.
Our meal for two at No Fifty Seven Boutique Cafe, Al Bateen Harbour, Abu Dhabi, cost Dh495. For more information, call 02 441 6100. Reviewed meals are paid for by The National and conducted incognito
aworkman@thenational.ae
