Sudanese foul by Ahmed El Gaili. Victor Besa / The National
Sudanese foul by Ahmed El Gaili. Victor Besa / The National
Sudanese foul by Ahmed El Gaili. Victor Besa / The National
Sudanese foul by Ahmed El Gaili. Victor Besa / The National

Ramadan recipe: a healthy and hearty foul medames


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Join The National and Table Tales on a culinary journey around the Middle East to savour the quintessential dishes that embody the spirit of Ramadan. From table staples to family favourites, this series of recipes – one for each day of Ramadan – pays homage to the holy month and the home cook alike.

A Middle Eastern staple, if ever there were one, foul stew is made from fava beans, and is a tasty, hearty and healthy option for your iftar table.

Growing up, we shared foul as the main dish at our weekly family brunch every Thursday

Often credited as the national dish of Egypt, foul (sometimes spelt as ful) was responsible for feeding a large part of Cairo’s population in the Middle Ages, around the 11th century. At the time, the water for a local bath house was heated in large vats, known as qidras. Additional qidras were employed to slow-cook fava beans overnight as the embers of the bathwater fires were kept alit to save resources. The next morning, the owners of Cairo’s cafes and cookshops would pick up the foul wholesale and season it up for their patrons.

The spicy Egyptian version aside, each region has its own version of foul that comes down to the seasoning, with the Lebanese making it with hummus, the Jordanians opting to consume it in dip form, the Moroccans combining it with split green peas, the Syrians garnishing it with Aleppo pepper paste and the Sudanese typically making it in sesame oil.

For a healthier iteration of the Sudanese variant, substituting the sesame oil with olive oil works a charm, too, as recipe contributor Ahmed El Gaili discovered much to his delight.

Recipe contributor Ahmed El Gaili has adapted his mother's recipe of Sudanese foul by substituting sesame oil with olive oil. Courtesy Table Tales / Ahmed El Gaili
Recipe contributor Ahmed El Gaili has adapted his mother's recipe of Sudanese foul by substituting sesame oil with olive oil. Courtesy Table Tales / Ahmed El Gaili

“I have taken my mum’s recipe and adjusted it a little bit, so instead of using regular sesame oil or corn oil – which are common in Sudan – I make it with olive oil, and add garlic and onion at the beginning to give it a little bit of oomph. I knew I was on to something when my dad tried this version a couple of years ago and whispered to me secretively that it is at least as good as mum’s!

“Foul is my favourite comfort food,” continues El Gaili. “Growing up, we shared foul as the main dish at our weekly family brunch every Thursday, which used to be the weekend.

“In Egypt and Sudan, foul is a mainstay because it is high in protein and it’s highly affordable, so that makes it accessible to a lot of people.

“Outside of Ramadan, people have it for breakfast, or sometimes for lunch or dinner if they can’t afford meats for those meals.

"During Ramadan, it's almost a requirement to have foul for every iftar – it's a bit heavy for suhoor."

Ahmed El Gaili's foul medames 

Ingredients:

  • 260g plain fava beans
  • 1 tomato, chopped
  • 60g feta cheese, divided
  • 1 tbsp plain yoghurt
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • 75ml olive oil, divided
  • 1 tbsp cumin
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1 chilli pepper, chopped
  • Oil for frying and drizzle

Method:

  1. Drain the beans and rinse. Place the beans, tomato, 40 grams of feta cheese, yoghurt, lime juice, 60 millilitres olive oil, cumin and salt in a bowl, and mash until almost combined.
  2. Heat two tablespoons of oil in a medium saucepan. Saute the onions for 3-5 minutes until wilted, then add the garlic and stir for another minute. Add the bean mixture and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  3. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for 15 minutes. Serve in a bowl, garnished with olive oil and crumbled feta.

This dish has been brought to you by Ahmed El Gaili and curated by international recipe hunter Hanan Sayed Worrell, author of Table Tales: The Global Nomad Cuisine of Abu Dhabi. The Table Tales concept celebrates the people and stories that give flavour to recipes of the Middle East.

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Read more:

Ramadan recipes: daily dishes to try from the 'Table Tales' series

Ramadan recipe: grilled halloumi with a lime vinaigrette

Ramadan recipe: Tunisian brik with shrimp

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Vitamin D: Highly relevant in the UAE due to limited sun exposure; supports bone health, immunity and mood.Vitamin B12: Important for nerve health and energy production, especially for vegetarians, vegans and individuals with absorption issues.Iron: Useful only when deficiency or anaemia is confirmed; helps reduce fatigue and support immunity.Omega-3 (EPA/DHA): Supports heart health and reduces inflammation, especially for those who consume little fish.

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Get inspired

Here are a couple of Valentine’s Day food products that may or may not go the distance (but have got the internet talking anyway).

Sourdough sentiments: Marks & Spencer in the United Kingdom has introduced a slow-baked sourdough loaf dusted with flour to spell out I (heart) you, at £2 (Dh9.5). While it’s not available in the UAE, there’s nothing to stop you taking the idea and creating your own message of love, stencilled on breakfast-inbed toast.  

Crisps playing cupid: Crisp company Tyrells has added a spicy addition to its range for Valentine’s Day. The brand describes the new honey and chilli flavour on Twitter as: “A tenderly bracing duo of the tantalising tingle of chilli with sweet and sticky honey. A helping hand to get your heart racing.” Again, not on sale here, but if you’re tempted you could certainly fashion your own flavour mix (spicy Cheetos and caramel popcorn, anyone?). 

Brief scores:

Everton 2

Walcott 21', Sigurdsson 51'

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Man of the Match: Son Heung-min (Tottenham Hotspur)

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Directed by: John Lee Hancock

Starring: Denzel Washington, Rami Malek, Jared Leto

Four stars

How much do leading UAE’s UK curriculum schools charge for Year 6?
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  2. Kings School Al Barsha (Dubai) – Dh71,905
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  4. Jumeirah English Speaking School (Dubai) – Dh59,728
  5. Gems Wellington International School – Dubai Branch – Dh58,488
  6. The British School Al Khubairat (Abu Dhabi) - Dh54,170
  7. Dubai English Speaking School – Dh51,269

*Annual tuition fees covering the 2024/2025 academic year

Porsche Macan T: The Specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl turbo 

Power: 265hp from 5,000-6,500rpm 

Torque: 400Nm from 1,800-4,500rpm 

Transmission: 7-speed dual-clutch auto 

Speed: 0-100kph in 6.2sec 

Top speed: 232kph 

Fuel consumption: 10.7L/100km 

On sale: May or June 

Price: From Dh259,900  

Who are the Sacklers?

The Sackler family is a transatlantic dynasty that owns Purdue Pharma, which manufactures and markets OxyContin, one of the drugs at the centre of America's opioids crisis. The family is well known for their generous philanthropy towards the world's top cultural institutions, including Guggenheim Museum, the National Portrait Gallery, Tate in Britain, Yale University and the Serpentine Gallery, to name a few. Two branches of the family control Purdue Pharma.

Isaac Sackler and Sophie Greenberg were Jewish immigrants who arrived in New York before the First World War. They had three sons. The first, Arthur, died before OxyContin was invented. The second, Mortimer, who died aged 93 in 2010, was a former chief executive of Purdue Pharma. The third, Raymond, died aged 97 in 2017 and was also a former chief executive of Purdue Pharma. 

It was Arthur, a psychiatrist and pharmaceutical marketeer, who started the family business dynasty. He and his brothers bought a small company called Purdue Frederick; among their first products were laxatives and prescription earwax remover.

Arthur's branch of the family has not been involved in Purdue for many years and his daughter, Elizabeth, has spoken out against it, saying the company's role in America's drugs crisis is "morally abhorrent".

The lawsuits that were brought by the attorneys general of New York and Massachussetts named eight Sacklers. This includes Kathe, Mortimer, Richard, Jonathan and Ilene Sackler Lefcourt, who are all the children of either Mortimer or Raymond. Then there's Theresa Sackler, who is Mortimer senior's widow; Beverly, Raymond's widow; and David Sackler, Raymond's grandson.

Members of the Sackler family are rarely seen in public.

First Person
Richard Flanagan
Chatto & Windus 

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