Bat soup, eyeball juice, haggis and maggot cheese: exhibits at the Disgusting Food Museum



One man’s meat is another man’s poison, or so goes the ancient Roman adage. It’s a premise that the upcoming Disgusting Food Museum in Sweden was designed to explore.

Take haggis as an example. Many who have tried Scotland’s national dish – made from sheep heart, liver and lungs and traditionally cooked inside the animal’s stomach – think it’s delicious. Yet it is one of the 80 food exhibits at the museum because a lot of people, mainly those who have only heard about it, think it’s repugnant.

The same goes for the other exhibits, some of which include sheep eyeballs in tomato juice (a Mongolian cure for headaches); century eggs from China aged until the yolks are cheesy and the whites are jelly; spicy rabbit heads, complete with eyeballs, tongue and a pate-like brain; natto (bacteria-fermented soybeans from Japan), Greeland’s kivak (little auk birds stuffed in a disemboweled seal); and kopi luwak (or cat-poop) coffee. All are “real foods eaten today or of great historical significance somewhere in the world”.  

According to founder Samuel West: “Disgust is individual - the thought of eating a spider makes some people hungry, but makes others want to vomit. It is contextual - many consider milk from a cow less disgusting than fresh milk from a lactating human friend. And disgust is cultural – we [tend to] like the foods we have grown up with.”

But he says that ideas of disgust can change with time. Two hundred years ago, lobster was so undesirable that it was only fed to prisoners and slaves. Today it is a delicacy. The museum invites visitors to challenge their notions of what is and what isn’t edible. West also notes that when he first moved to Sweden, he hated salty liquorice, but now he loves it.

On another level, human beings are fascinated with disgust, which is one of the six fundamental human emotions. “Just as a roller coaster offers us a safe experience of danger, we humans are fascinated with disgust from a safe distance. We are intrigued by slimy slugs, gory movies, and watching someone on the verge of vomiting trying to eat something awful. The evolutionary function of disgust is to help us avoid disease and unsafe food, and our ideas of disgust influence our lives in many ways, from our choice of foods to our morals and laws,” says Andreas Ahrens from the museum. 

Shock value and philosophical musings aside, West and team also have a more important agenda in place. “Our planet cannot sustain current meat production, and we need to consider alternative protein sources such as insects and lab-grown meat. [Maybe] changing our ideas of disgust help us embrace the environmentally sustainable foods of the future. It could help us transition to more sustainable protein sources,” explains Ahrens.  

Most of the exhibits are real food, while some are replicas and others are displayed as video. Most of the real foods can be smelt, even Thailand’s durian fruit, which one writer described as “turpentine and onions, garnished with a gym sock”, while a few others are available for tasting should you dare.

Alongside the description that accompanies each item, some come with tasting instructions. For example, a warning for the Casu Marzu (maggot and fly larvae) cheese, which comes from Sardinia in Italy, reads: “Diners need to protect their eyes from jumping larvae, and eating live maggots is risky, as they can survive inside their new host and can bore through intestinal walls.”  

The exhibit opens on October 31 in Malmö, Sweden, across the bridge from Copenhagen, Denmark

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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

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