Nearly 38 years after leading the men’s division at Hermes, Veronique Nichanian presented her final collection for the house, on January 25 during Paris Men's Fashion Week, to a standing ovation.
Over the course of her tenure, Nichanian has developed a singular and unmistakable design language – one rooted in discretion, ease and a quiet elegance that resists display.
That sensibility defined her final outing. Buttery-soft leather shirts in sage green and burnt chocolate were layered beneath shearling-lined coats and jackets, while long scarves were looped loosely around the neck, as if thrown on without thought.
Straight-cut trousers, in plain finishes or chalk stripes, were styled with key chains hanging casually from belt loops, while a woollen tracksuit appeared in a delicate chalk stripe. Elsewhere, lightweight, technical jackets were worn beneath more substantial outer layers, creating depth without heaviness.
For evening, Nichanian proposed black satin suits worn with cashmere polo-neck jumpers – formal, but never rigid. In a characteristically playful gesture, one bag nodded back to the era in which she began: a boombox rendered entirely in leather.
Held inside Palais Brongniart – the Paris stock market building – the 56-look show read almost as a gentle act of retrospection, a return to one of Nichanian’s most enduring beliefs, that style and elegance should feel relaxed rather than imposed. One of the few daytime suits sent down the runway, for instance, was worn with a leather shirt, undermining formality with ease.
When Nichanian joined Hermes in 1988, the house was primarily associated with silk scarves and leather goods. Through her discreet and consistent collections, she played a central role in transforming its menswear offering into a global benchmark. Her commitment to clothes that prioritise comfort, longevity and restraint has earned both designer and house a deeply loyal clientele.
Speaking with Agence France-Presse after the show, the designer, 71, admitted she was “feeling emotional”.
“It’s my decision to stop and do something else. It’s a decision I’ve thought through carefully because I feel it’s the right moment for me – and for the house,” she said.
Seated in the front row were musicians Travis Scott and Usher, actors James McAvoy and Chace Crawford, as well as British designer Sir Paul Smith.
Nichanian's departure brings to a close a remarkable career devoted to men who favour timelessness over trends, and are willing to invest in quality. Under Nichanian, the Hermes man has been defined by exceptional materials, beautiful cuts and an unfussy practicality embedded in every piece.
Nichanian’s exit is the latest moment of change in an industry that has seen creative leadership shifts at Chanel, Dior, Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Balenciaga over the past year, underscoring a period of broader transition across luxury fashion.
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