Gowns from Rami Al Ali's collection on view at the AltaRoma AltaModa Autumn/Winter 2011 show in July in Rome. Photos by Elisabetta A Villa / Getty Images
Gowns from Rami Al Ali's collection on view at the AltaRoma AltaModa Autumn/Winter 2011 show in July in Rome. Photos by Elisabetta A Villa / Getty Images
Gowns from Rami Al Ali's collection on view at the AltaRoma AltaModa Autumn/Winter 2011 show in July in Rome. Photos by Elisabetta A Villa / Getty Images
Gowns from Rami Al Ali's collection on view at the AltaRoma AltaModa Autumn/Winter 2011 show in July in Rome. Photos by Elisabetta A Villa / Getty Images

Dubai-based designer to make debut at Paris Haute Couture Week


  • English
  • Arabic

If designer Rami Al Ali is not to be found at his Dubai atelier or in his native Syria, he's most probably flown to France.

At the end of January, Al Ali will make his debut at Paris Haute Couture Week, showing his spring/summer 2012 collection to an unforgiving audience of fashion critics and demanding high-profile clients.

"The couture fashion houses in Paris are hundreds of years old and I will, of course, be compared with them, which is a huge pressure for me," he says. "Plus, the media at Paris Fashion Week have seen a lot, so it's hard to impress them.

"It's too early to reveal the theme [of the collection], but it has something to do with my Syrian roots, with lots of Arabesque and ornamental details - very feminine and nostalgic."

After studying for an arts degree in Damascus and doing stints at some of the UAE's most prestigious fashion houses, he created Rami Al Ali couture in 2001.

Fashion: The National dresses

Catwalks, seasons, features, news and all things fashion

Following the launch of his ready-to-wear line in 2007, the designer took a leap of faith two years later and became the first Syrian to register for AltaRoma's prestigious fashion event. That same year he was ranked one of the world's 50 most influential Arabs by The Middle East magazine.

"We did many shows locally and regionally around that time, and once we had established the name, image and philosophy of the company, we wanted to take the next step," he says.

Showing two couture collections, one bridal and a further two prêt-à-porter shows per year in the city, Rome quickly became something of a professional and spiritual home for the designer. He admits the move exceeded all expectations and allowed him to export his distinctive Arabic style abroad successfully.

"It was such a great decision," he says. "My proudest moment was probably my first European collection [spring/summer 2009]. It had a lot of meaning for me and was greatly received. The theme was the Damascus rose and we made special prints for the fabric with Syrian mosaics and the flower itself."

Al Ali calls his graduation to Europe's couture capital, Paris, "an organic development" and says the creations set to grace the runway will continue to bear the hallmark of this wistful, ethereal style.

"The Damascus rose may reappear," he says playfully. "But in a more mature way. I've used pale pastel colours - beige, champagne, dusty rose and pistachio green. And I went for very light materials with lots of transparency like tulle, chiffon and organza. I wanted the gowns to look unreal - like a mirage, as if in a dream."

Al Ali is also making good use of the current international trend of detailing by using new materials and fabrics to create texture, rather than simply adorning gowns with excessive embroidery, sequins and beads.

"Embellishment is one of the most important couture designer tools," he says. "But using the same classical ways is boring for designers and for the client as well - this is a far more modern and up-to-date way."

Al Ali's highly original, sculpted evening gowns soon attracted some very famous attention, not least from socialite Ivana Trump, who is now a front-row regular at his shows. The couturier famously dressed Trump, alongside model-actress Rosanna Davison, in a show-stopping peacock feather-inspired creation for Elton John's White Tie and Tiara Ball last year.

From regional royal fans to international celebrities and social muses such as the Egyptian actress Yousra and the singer Lateefa Nawal, Al Ali says the many varied people he dresses never fail to get his creative juices flowing.

"A client can really impress and inspire me," he says. "She may influence the whole direction of the next collection simply by something she says, or wears, her statement about design. It always stays in my mind."

Al Ali says that although he doesn't have dream clients to dress up, he has favourite celebrities whose fashion portfolios he admires. "Like Sarah Jessica Parker - I would definitely be happy to be a part of hers. She's just changed the whole way we evaluate fashion by mixing couture with high street pieces and she's even added new words to fashion's vocabulary," he says. "I also like Catherine Zeta Jones and Salma Hayek. They are very elegant, even when not wearing something particularly visually interesting."

Muses aside, Al Ali's love of music also plays a part in his creative process - his iPod is currently playing on repeat Chopin's haunting Nocturnes. Although he keeps a sketch book and pencil with him at all times for jotting down designs, his greatest fear is running out of new ideas.

"Every time I do a new collection I feel, no, this is too good!" the designer says, laughing. "And I wonder whether I should keep pieces for the next collection - so I would say a lack of creativity is what worries me most."

His worst fears have yet to be realised, however. His last collection, Rami Al Ali Autumn/Winter 2011/12, was a fitting farewell tribute to Rome, with accentuated feminine silhouettes, classically tailored pieces and floor-sweeping creations in jewel tones such as emerald green.

"We needed a lot of fabric that had the texture and feel of ancient wools," he says. "So we worked a lot with Italian companies to make special tweed with less wool, so a woman in the Gulf could wear them and still feel the richness of proper European tweed."

Al Ali concedes it's almost inevitable that the alluring je ne sais quoi of his new international base, Paris, will take his designs in another new and exciting creative direction.

"Paris has long been in my heart," he says. "And although you haven't seen it in my collections yet, I am working on one inspired by the city and its people."

He'll no doubt be inspired, too, by the line-up of iconic maisons showing alongside him in Paris next month, including Dior, Valentino and Versace, who returns after an eight-year hiatus.

In hallowed haute couture company Al Ali's brand may be, but the designer modestly admits he still has a long way to go.

"Fashion wise, I don't think I've done anything so far," he says. "I'm just starting, still exploring and enjoying, so probably I would like to do another 20 to 30 years.

"My relationship with my career is very emotional, I do it with a passion and not because it's profitable. It makes me happy and is a tool for me to express who I am."

The 24-man squad:

Goalkeepers: Thibaut Courtois (Chelsea), Simon Mignolet (Liverpool), Koen Casteels (VfL Wolfsburg).

Defenders: Toby Alderweireld (Tottenham), Thomas Meunier (Paris Saint-Germain), Thomas Vermaelen (Barcelona), Jan Vertonghen (Tottenham), Dedryck Boyata (Celtic), Vincent Kompany (Manchester City).

Midfielders: Marouane Fellaini (Manchester United), Axel Witsel (Tianjin Quanjian), Kevin De Bruyne (Manchester City), Eden Hazard (Chelsea), Nacer Chadli (West Bromwich Albion), Leander Dendoncker (Anderlecht), Thorgan Hazard (Borussia Moenchengladbach), Youri Tielemans (Monaco), Mousa Dembele (Tottenham Hotspur).

Forwards: Michy Batshuayi (Chelsea/Dortmund), Yannick Carrasco (Dalian Yifang), Adnan Januzaj (Real Sociedad), Romelu Lukaku (Manchester United), Dries Mertens (Napoli).

Standby player: Laurent Ciman (Los Angeles FC).

Specs

Engine: 51.5kW electric motor

Range: 400km

Power: 134bhp

Torque: 175Nm

Price: From Dh98,800

Available: Now

Our legal columnist

Name: Yousef Al Bahar

Advocate at Al Bahar & Associate Advocates and Legal Consultants, established in 1994

Education: Mr Al Bahar was born in 1979 and graduated in 2008 from the Judicial Institute. He took after his father, who was one of the first Emirati lawyers

Profile Idealz

Company: Idealz

Founded: January 2018

Based: Dubai

Sector: E-commerce

Size: (employees): 22

Investors: Co-founders and Venture Partners (9 per cent)

GIANT REVIEW

Starring: Amir El-Masry, Pierce Brosnan

Director: Athale

Rating: 4/5

Teaching your child to save

Pre-school (three - five years)

You can’t yet talk about investing or borrowing, but introduce a “classic” money bank and start putting gifts and allowances away. When the child wants a specific toy, have them save for it and help them track their progress.

Early childhood (six - eight years)

Replace the money bank with three jars labelled ‘saving’, ‘spending’ and ‘sharing’. Have the child divide their allowance into the three jars each week and explain their choices in splitting their pocket money. A guide could be 25 per cent saving, 50 per cent spending, 25 per cent for charity and gift-giving.

Middle childhood (nine - 11 years)

Open a bank savings account and help your child establish a budget and set a savings goal. Introduce the notion of ‘paying yourself first’ by putting away savings as soon as your allowance is paid.

Young teens (12 - 14 years)

Change your child’s allowance from weekly to monthly and help them pinpoint long-range goals such as a trip, so they can start longer-term saving and find new ways to increase their saving.

Teenage (15 - 18 years)

Discuss mutual expectations about university costs and identify what they can help fund and set goals. Don’t pay for everything, so they can experience the pride of contributing.

Young adulthood (19 - 22 years)

Discuss post-graduation plans and future life goals, quantify expenses such as first apartment, work wardrobe, holidays and help them continue to save towards these goals.

* JP Morgan Private Bank 

Three tips from La Perle's performers

1 The kind of water athletes drink is important. Gwilym Hooson, a 28-year-old British performer who is currently recovering from knee surgery, found that out when the company was still in Studio City, training for 12 hours a day. “The physio team was like: ‘Why is everyone getting cramps?’ And then they realised we had to add salt and sugar to the water,” he says.

2 A little chocolate is a good thing. “It’s emergency energy,” says Craig Paul Smith, La Perle’s head coach and former Cirque du Soleil performer, gesturing to an almost-empty open box of mini chocolate bars on his desk backstage.

3 Take chances, says Young, who has worked all over the world, including most recently at Dragone’s show in China. “Every time we go out of our comfort zone, we learn a lot about ourselves,” she says.

Who was Alfred Nobel?

The Nobel Prize was created by wealthy Swedish chemist and entrepreneur Alfred Nobel.

  • In his will he dictated that the bulk of his estate should be used to fund "prizes to those who, during the preceding year, have conferred the greatest benefit to humankind".
  • Nobel is best known as the inventor of dynamite, but also wrote poetry and drama and could speak Russian, French, English and German by the age of 17. The five original prize categories reflect the interests closest to his heart.
  • Nobel died in 1896 but it took until 1901, following a legal battle over his will, before the first prizes were awarded.