Patek Philippe set to unveil new line that may compete with its famed Nautilus brand

The prototype is ready and would be the first to be introduced since 1999, says president of the Swiss watch maker

Patek has been dealing with a surge in popularity and demand for the Nautilus collection in recent years. Photo: Patek Philippe
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Patek Philippe will soon introduce a new model line for the first time in about a quarter of a century, an offering that the head of the family-owned Swiss watch maker expects could one day compete with its most desirable timepieces.

President Thierry Stern said the new model line is expected to be unveiled later this year, or next year, once all the final elements are in place.

“The design is done, and the prototype is ready and really, I like it,” he said at the Geneva Watches and Wonders fair.

A new offering from Patek would herald a significant event for the storied brand founded in 1839 and controlled by Mr Stern and his family for generations.

Patek last introduced a new line in 1999 with its “Twenty~4" women’s collection.

“To create a new line of products — that’s really the challenge,” said Mr Stern, 52, who in addition to his chairman duties, oversees the design of new watches at Patek.

Mr Stern did not say whether the new line would consist of sports models such as Patek’s most sought-after Nautilus — originally designed by Gerald Genta — or dress watches such as the Ellipse or its Complications and Grand Complications lines.

Patek has been dealing with a surge in popularity and demand for the Nautilus collection in recent years.

Prices soared to unprecedented levels on the secondary market during the pandemic before pulling back sharply over the past year, while still selling well above retail prices.

The company responded to the hype by ending production of the blue dial steel 5711, the definitive sports watch that was its most popular model.

The brand later introduced a similar watch, the 5811, housed in a white gold, slightly larger case and at a higher price of about $70,000, compared with about $35,000 for a steel Nautilus.

Mr Stern said more modestly priced watches still remain a key component of the luxury brand’s portfolio.

“You should not only do a million-dollar watch; we don’t have only very, very rich people” as customers, he said.

“We have people who are passionate about watches and who can spend a maximum of $30,000 or $40,000 on a watch — which is already a lot of money.”

Overwhelming demand for Patek’s watches has played a role in the company’s decision to cut its retail distribution network by about 30 per cent.

The company makes 70,000 watches a year and simply does not have the capacity to produce more while maintaining quality, Mr Stern said.

“As I couldn’t increase the production, my only other choice was to reduce the point of sales so that everybody could get a little bit more watches,” he said.

Patek has no plans to follow Rolex and authenticate its watches for resale on the secondary market through authorised dealers, Mr Stern said.

“I’m a watch maker, I’m selling new watches,” he said. “That’s what I’m good at.”

You should not only do a million-dollar watch; we don’t have only very, very rich people
Thierry Stern, president, Patek Philippe

Mr Stern said his two sons, aged 20 and 21, had both decided to join the family-owned company and would begin learning all aspects of the business next year.

It could take as long as a decade before either might be ready to begin taking on significant decision-making duties, he said.

In the meantime, long-time executive Laurent Bernasconi is taking over as Patek’s general manager after about two decades with the company as part of its succession planning process.

The shift has been in the works for some time, with the move announced internally to Patek employees in 2021.

Although Patek Philippe is one of the last and most coveted independent Swiss watch-making brands and would have no shortage of potential suitors, Mr Stern said there were no plans to sell the business, which his family has controlled since 1932.

A sale to a larger luxury conglomerate such as LVMH or Richemont would almost certainly herald the beginning of the end for the Patek brand and diminish the value of its watches owned by collectors, he said.

“If I’m selling Patek Philippe to a group, for sure I am going to be the winner. I can sell it for billions,” he said.

“But then, I’m going to kill Patek Philippe in less than five years. You can be sure you will only see Nautilus, because that’s what the group would do. This is not what I want to do.”

Updated: March 31, 2023, 12:30 PM