My Kind of Place: Mumbai is the maximum city, indeed

A guide to the places you must shop, eat and stay at in India's most cosmopolitan city.

An aerial view of Colaba, Mumbai, including one of the city's many photo-worthy sites, the Rajabai Clock Tower. JTB / UIG via Getty Images

Why Mumbai?
The Mumbai of Slumdog Millionaire is a world apart from the Bombay of Rudyard Kipling's poetry; different from the heaving megalopolis described in Suketu Mehta's Maximum City or Katherine Boo's book-club staple Behind the Beautiful Forevers. One could go on. India's seaside financial capital is no stranger to superlative descriptors and effusive labels - it's the country's richest, most populous, most cosmopolitan and, arguably, most-loved city. Originally a fishing colony, Mumbai is built on an archipelago of seven islands, and many buildings and roads are constructed on reclaimed land. Bifurcated in local lingo into South Mumbai (or SoBo) and North Mumbai (or the 'Burbs), the city is a heady mix of people, places, eateries and experiences - not even the tome that is Shantaram could fully capture the always-switched-on vibe that hits you the moment you touch down. Just another reason, then, for you to visit.
 
A comfortable bed
The Taj Mahal Palace in South Mumbai's Colaba district is the city's landmark hotel. It's big - 560 rooms and 11 restaurants; beautiful - Moorish arches, majestic balustrades and glorious views; and bold - as made evident by the grit shown by its owners, staff and guests during and after the 2008 terrorist attacks. Rooms from 15,000 rupees to 1,85,000 rupees (Dh895 to Dh11,000) per night.
In North Mumbai, the Taj Lands End in Bandra and the J?W Marriott in Juhu are worthy five-star offerings. Double rooms in either hotel from 12,000 rupees (Dh714) per night.
For a boutique experience, try Le Sutra, India's first art hotel. The elaborate decor is full of paintings and sculptures from Hindu mythology. Double rooms from 7,500 rupees (Dh446) per night.
For budget, the Sea Green Hotel comes with a great sea view, while Executive Enclave is set amid the cafes and shops of buzzy Bandra. Doubles from 5,000 rupees (Dh297) per night.
 
Find your feet
In South Mumbai, start at the colonial-era Gateway of India monument. Take a stroll down the art district of Kala Ghoda that houses the Jehangir Art Gallery and Prince of Wales Museum, then cut in through the maze-like alleys to arrive on Colaba Causeway, full of street shopping and dollhouse cafes. Recharge your batteries with some coffee and a brownie at the Parsi-run Cafe Theobroma (0091 22 288 0101), before the splendour of the Flora Fountain, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus) and Rajabai Clock Tower have you reaching for your camera at every turn.
The Worli area has a gorgeous promenade, not unlike Marine Drive and Carter Road and Bandstand. Strolling along these sea-facing stretches will take you far from the madding crowds, cars, cows, et al that you'll be faced with everywhere else.
North Mumbai is known for the bylanes of Bandra, with its Portuguese-style villas and a rare green space, known simply as Jogger's Park; Juhu Beach, where you can take a dip in the safe but musty waters of the Arabian Sea; and the Sanjay Gandhi National Park if you fancy a spot of hiking.
 
Meet the locals
Often referred to as the city that never sleeps, Mumbai works hard and plays harder. You can interact with the locals just about anywhere, on any day of the week and any time of day or night. From roads and restaurants to bars and bazaars, Mumbaiites are all over - there are, after all, 20 million of them - and are a friendly if fast-talking bunch.
 
Book a table
With butter chicken and biryani available in what seems like every other restaurant in the UAE, look instead to Indian-Chinese eateries. China Gate serves up delectable corn cream, triple schezwan, crispy veg and chicken lollipops. Prices from 200 to 1,000 rupees (Dh12 to Dh60). Seafoodies must try the bombil fry (Bombay duck fish; 200 rupees [Dh12]) at Gajalee. For hygienic street food, visit Haji Ali for schezwan pizza (200 rupees [Dh12]), Bade Miyan for bhuna rolls (165 rupees [Dh10]) and Elco Market for panipuri (50 rupees [Dh3]). For international cuisine and posh ambience, sample Indigo Deli, Yauatcha and The Tasting Room. Peshawari at the Maratha Sheraton hotel does a melt-in-your-mouth lamb raan.
 
Shopper's paradise
Palladium at Phoenix Mills covers the spectrum of stores you'd expect to find at a world-class mall, ranging from Armani to Zara, while stand-alone stores such as Good Earth, Fab India, The Bombay Store and Tappu Ki Dukaan offer an eclectic mix of clothing, home decor, linen and jewellery. Prices start from 500 rupees (Dh30). The city also has bustling open and closed bazaars, notably Crawford Market in SoBo and Linking Road in the 'Burbs.
 
Don't miss
A night out at The Daily (0091 99 2044 6633); a play at Prithvi Theatre or NCPA (www.ncpamumbai.com); a facial at Sano Cara (0091 98 2005 4251) and a movie at the whistle-happy "stall" section of Gaiety, for an entertaining glimpse of just how Bollywood-crazy Mumbai is. The Wankhede Stadium, Siddhivinayak Temple, Bandra masjid and Mount Mary Church are edifices dedicated to Mumbai's two other great loves - cricket and religion.
 
What to avoid
The local trains at peak hour, unless you want to hang halfway out. Travel in metered cabs and rickshaws and drink bottled water to keep you and your stomach safe and sound.
 
Getting there
Emirates and Etihad fly direct from Dubai and Abu Dhabi respectively. Return flights cost from Dh1,015 and Dh765, including taxes.
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