Making of a shoe: a step-by-step look at the footwear created by Maison Corthay

Courtesy Maison Corthay

Courtesy Maison Corthay

Courtesy Maison Corthay

Courtesy Maison Corthay

Courtesy Maison Corthay

Courtesy Maison Corthay

Courtesy Maison Corthay

The luxury French footwear brand, Maison Corthay, now incorporates camel leather from Abu Dhabi in its men's footwear. Here's a look at the various stages a typical Arca shoe undergoes.

Read this and similar stories in Luxury magazine, out with The National on Thursday, March 3.

Stage 1

Pattern cutting marks the first step in the production of a Maison Corthay shoe. This enables the final footwear to be produced from its original design. Once the pattern has been prepared, it’s on to the construction of a wooden frame, around which the shoes will be crafted. The frame provides the right shape and fitting.

Stage 2

Next comes the cutting of the leather. The camel leather, which has made its journey from a government-owned tannery in Abu Dhabi to the Loire Valley and undergone a special tanning process to make it even softer, must be cut, in a process known as clicking. Specialist clickers will examine the material for any defects before deciding which parts to use, with the finest-quality leather bends kept for the soles and heels of the shoe.

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Stage 3

Once the leather is cut, the sections are assembled and stitched together in the closing room to create the shoe upper – the parts of the shoe that cover the toes, the top and sides of the foot, and the back of the heel. Several processes take place in this stage, such as punching, gimping, side-stitching, hand-sewing and fitting eyelets for the laces. Each process requires precision and hand-eye coordination by skilled machinists.

Stage 4

This step involves the preparation of the rib, which is attached to the insole and onto which the welt, which runs along the perimeter of the shoe’s outsole, will eventually be stitched. It is then pulled over the toe of the shoe by a four-part lasting machine.

Stage 5

Next stop, the lasting department, where the Arca will finally begin to take its shape. The upper is tackled onto the last and cork is inserted into the cavity underneath to provide insulation. It is crucial for the upper to be correctly aligned, before it side-lasted by hand.

Stage 6

The shank is added next. This is made of wood and gives support to the Beech. The rigidity of the arches is ensured by the wooden shanks. They form the backbone of a fine welt shoe and provide proper support and shape. The cork is also fixed in place. A natural cork provides the perfect insulation. It fills the cavity of the desired bottom shape and, more importantly, its cellular structure adopts the shape and form of the foot like a cushion and helps to reinforce the insole. It also eliminates any clicks and squeaks, which can be caused by the shank area. The leather insoles are now tacked on to the lasts. After the shoe has been fully lasted, the welt is skilfully stitched through the sides of the upper to the rib of the insole.

Stage 7

Goodyear-welted construction is completed by attaching the soles and stitching through the welt. Named for Charles Goodyear Jr, who invented the machinery required for the process, Goodyear welting is a time-consuming process, but widely acknowledged as the leading method of shoe construction. It offers strength and durability, and allows for worn soles to be removed and replaced with new ones, without affecting the leather uppers. After attaching the soles, the process of bottom levelling rounds the soles to the shape of the last. The heels are attached in the finishing room. They are trimmed and scoured with several grades of emery paper to create the smoothest of finishes.

Stage 8

In the very final stages, the soles are edge-trimmed. The soles and heels are then stained and the edges coated with hot wax to to aid waterproofing and seal the leather. After that, the lasts are removed, soles are stamped with the Corthay brand and the insocks are fitted. Before the shoes leave the factory, they are hand-polished and hand-brushed by the patina artist. Finally, the shoes undergo a thorough check, before being laced, boxed and dispatched.