Fashion loves nothing more than confusing us; keeping us on our toes and, in turn, the industry in pocket. From January to April, designers show their autumn/winter collections; from September to November, it’s time for spring/summer. If that isn’t confusing enough, we throw in two more: couture and cruise, and don’t get to buy any pieces until six months after we’ve seen them. It’s the driving force behind a multibillion-dirham industry.
The spring/summer 2015 shows didn’t disappoint, providing more than a few surprises. This season was all about unearthing some of the biggest names from the last decade. There was the return of the “it” model – from Gemma Ward at Prada to Gisele Bündchen at Chanel, Amber Valletta at Lanvin and Naomi Campbell at Emilio Pucci. Meanwhile, a Kardashian sister was spotted on just about every catwalk across the board.
And then come the clothes. We certainly have a few memorable trends coming our way.
Let’s start with florals. For spring, not exactly a revolution by all accounts, but they are the true winner of the spring/summer 2015 collections. Not just any florals, mind you – the new florals offer a real departure from last season’s optical prints. Matthew Williamson, Mary Katrantzou and Giambattista Valli all explored a powdery pastel colour palette in a romantic assortment of chiffon, organza and lace, also making an appearance on influential 3-D appliqués. Pastels are here to stay, with sugary shades seen in equally sugary fabrics.
There’s a big difference between feminine and girlie; what we’re aiming for here is bold florals, especially when anchored with heavy accents.
It was a pleasure to witness a homespun take on things, with a bohemian artisanal feel, after a season awash with digital prints. There was a definite nod to the continuing retro fascination, in particular the 1970s – be it Tom Ford’s bohemian spirit, Tommy Hilfiger’s festival chic or Emilio Pucci’s flower power.
In terms of print, led by the ringleaders at Chanel, Prada and Preen, we witnessed a mesh of rich tribal prints and floral blooms, both in garish pop colours. While intricate pattern took centre stage along with asymmetrical silhouettes and jewelled embellishment – all added to the theme of excess.
There was certainly a joyful whiff of holiday about the season. Having commanded the catwalks at Etro and MSGM, the tropics made a splash, with florals made from palms and tropical motifs placed on printed chiffon.
Thankfully, we can safely say that skinny jeans have had their day. Low-slung, trousers that focus on a laid-back vibe – slim fit but not skintight is the only way to go. When in doubt about fit or length, get a tailor. The results are usually wonderful, and, for a low cost, jeans you thought were out of the question for your body shape suddenly become a contender. According to fashion’s biggest names, such as Burberry and Gucci, indigo is the colour.
The trick with all of this is to make a clear divide between a real trend and a phoney one, and, more importantly, what will work best for you. Pick and choose, rather than diving in without a solid game plan. Add some basic groundwork and a sense of decorum, and you should be set for great things.
weekend@thenational.ae
