With its crumbling Mamluk buildings, crusader castle, colourful souq and mouth-watering oriental sweets, Tripoli has long played the role of a busy commercial hub, strategically located on the Lebanese coastline close to the Syrian border.
Beneath the city's landmark early-20th century clock tower, bus drivers wait for customers heading to the capital Beirut or the Syrian city of Tartus, while men play backgammon on cafe shady terraces.
Life quickly went back to normal after a recent terrorist attack that shocked the city, which had enjoyed a few years of relative calm.
On the evening of June 4, as Muslims across the world were preparing to celebrate Eid Al Fitr, a man threw grenades and opened fire on the police and the army in several locations across Tripoli, killing two policemen and two soldiers.
Today, the fourth-floor flat where 27-year-old Abdel Rahman Mabsout died in a shoot-out with the army is marked only by a few bullet holes in an exterior wall, a familiar sight in a country that still bears the scars of its civil war.
But despite Tripoli’s calm appearance, tensions are brewing.
Sunni residents feel they are just the latest of their brethren across the Middle East to be marginalised at the expense of Shiite factions, while analysts point to the Lebanese government’s inability to address chronic problems that foster resentment.
Though soldiers in the city look relaxed, drinking coffee in front of their many observation points, their heavy presence is a reminder of the intense surveillance the city is under since sectarian violence pitted Alawites against Sunnis in 2014.
The two communities had been at odds for decades, but fighting flared up again with the Syrian civil war. In one of the worst bouts of violence, 42 people died during four days of clashes between the army and Islamist militants in October 2014.
Suspicion of the state is high in Tripoli. Residents of one of the areas most affected by past violence, Bab Al Tabbaneh, refused to talk to The National. They fear the mukhabarat, a term used across the Middle East for army intelligence. The feeling appears to be reciprocated: people say 80 men were arrested after the June 4 attacks, which shows just how concerned the state is by the potential for incidents like this to spark much greater conflagrations.
Security authorities were quick to describe Mabsout as a “lone wolf” with a history of mental illness, but activists, religious leaders and academics say that the conditions for a terrorist attack against state institutions have been ripe for years.
The army’s brutal response against anybody labelled a Sunni “terrorist”, a slow judicial system and a lack of investment in job creation and infrastructure have perpetuated the conditions that first led to violence several years ago.
Raphael Lefevre, a Lebanon and Syria researcher at Oxford University, told The National that "some of the same factors that had caused a wave of violence targeting the Lebanese security forces in 2014 are still at play today, chief among them the growing sense that the security forces are a tool in the hands of the notables and the political parties, notably Hezbollah, and disproportionately target Sunni rather than Shia militants."
With Hezbollah, the Iran-backed Lebanese group that functions as a political party as well as a regional paramilitary force, stronger than ever, Tripoli’s majority Sunni community feels increasingly threatened.
“If a simple ruler is found on a Sunni, then he’s a terrorist,” complained imam Firas Ballout, head of the religious department of Lebanon’s Sunni authority, Dar Al Fatwa, in Tripoli.
“But when they find cannons and rockets on others, then they are part of the 'resistance'. Where is justice?”
Hezbollah was the only militia allowed to keep its weapons at the end of the Lebanese civil war in 1990, in the name of the “resistance” against Israeli occupation, and its members fight alongside Bashar Al Assad's forces in Syria.
“First the Sunnis were pushed aside in Iraq, then in Syria. Now, the Sunnis of Lebanon believe it’s their turn to be killed,” said Salem Al Rafei, a prominent Salafi cleric in Tripoli who called on his followers to fight the Syrian regime in 2013. About 100 young men did so, he says.
In such a climate of mistrust, conspiracy theories are common.
All the imams that The National spoke to suggested that Mabsout, reputedly "simple-minded", could not have organised the attacks on his own, and believe that Hezbollah, Iran or Syria manipulated him.
“I think it was a message from Hezbollah to the government and to the West: you may be putting pressure on Iran, but we can mess up the situation in Lebanon,” said imam Mohamed Ibrahim, media director at the Tahrir party, which he describes as advocating for the establishment of a Muslim caliphate through nonviolent means.
Although he condemned Mabsout’s actions, he argued that the state bore a responsibility in the radicalisation process by unfairly targeting the Sunni community.
“Security forces break into houses, beat young men and torture them until they confess to anything they want,” said Mr Ibrahim.
One woman, who spoke to The National on the condition of anonymity, said that her then 16-year-old son was tortured after his arrest on suspicion of joining ISIS in Lebanon in 2014, and has been detained for the past five years without trial in an unofficial prison.
The Lebanese army did not respond to a request for comment about the existence of this detention centre and torture allegations. Human rights organisations have documented extensive cases of torture in Lebanese prisons, including against minors.
Combined with ill-treatment, years of imprisonment without trial “create and sustain the type of resentment on which terrorist groups then recruit,” says Mr Lefevre.
Today, the woman says her only hope is that her son is granted amnesty. For years, religious personalities such as Mr Ibrahim have been lobbying the government for an amnesty for about 1,000 Islamist prisoners as part of a general amnesty that would also include drug traffickers.
She says that when her son is freed, she will try her best to keep him away from extremist thoughts.
“I will brainwash [my son] back from the beginning,” she said.
Another woman whose two brothers were recently freed from prison said that there was no help from the state for ex-detainees to transition back into society. They face difficulty finding work because of their past, and have restricted access to passports, breeding further resentment.
Perceived unfair treatment may be one of the root causes of terrorism, but Lebanese authorities also point to the responsibility of extremist imams in prison who influence other inmates in overcrowded cells.
"Anybody who enters Roumieh is a potential new terrorist," a source at the military court told The National, referring to a prison that houses a high number of Islamist extremists and where Mabsout spent a year and a half in 2016 and 2017 after attempting to join ISIS in Raqqa.
Failing to make it to the former ISIS capital, Mabsout received a month's training from a moderate group affiliated to the Free Syrian Army before going to Turkey, where he was arrested and handed over to Lebanon, the source said.
According to the source, building new prisons would the best way to combat extremist propaganda in detention. Foreign donors would be needed, considering that the state is near financial collapse.
But Mr Lefevre argues that “instead of obtaining US dollars to build new prisons, policymakers could show more care and invest more in the crumbling public school system, job creation, and poverty reduction initiatives, particularly in the north of Lebanon and Tripoli.”
The UN says that poverty affects 46 per cent of people in Tripoli, compared to a national average of 29 per cent.
With political will, Tripoli’s problems would be easy to fix, says Mr Ibrahim. But he said that the cycle of violence has a high chance of continuing.
“Many young men are pushed to the brink of explosion. They become open to anti-state ideas. That’s what happened with Mabsout, and there are many others like him.”
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The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
Groom and Two Brides
Director: Elie Samaan
Starring: Abdullah Boushehri, Laila Abdallah, Lulwa Almulla
Rating: 3/5
Essentials
The flights
Emirates, Etihad and Malaysia Airlines all fly direct from the UAE to Kuala Lumpur and on to Penang from about Dh2,300 return, including taxes.
Where to stay
In Kuala Lumpur, Element is a recently opened, futuristic hotel high up in a Norman Foster-designed skyscraper. Rooms cost from Dh400 per night, including taxes. Hotel Stripes, also in KL, is a great value design hotel, with an infinity rooftop pool. Rooms cost from Dh310, including taxes.
In Penang, Ren i Tang is a boutique b&b in what was once an ancient Chinese Medicine Hall in the centre of Little India. Rooms cost from Dh220, including taxes.
23 Love Lane in Penang is a luxury boutique heritage hotel in a converted mansion, with private tropical gardens. Rooms cost from Dh400, including taxes.
In Langkawi, Temple Tree is a unique architectural villa hotel consisting of antique houses from all across Malaysia. Rooms cost from Dh350, including taxes.
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
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%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20The%20digitisation%20of%20financial%20services%20will%20continue%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Managing%20and%20using%20data%20effectively%20will%20become%20a%20competitive%20advantage%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Digitisation%20will%20require%20continued%20adjustment%20of%20operating%20models%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20Banks%20will%20expand%20their%20role%20in%20the%20customer%20life%20through%20ecosystems%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%E2%80%A2%20The%20structure%20of%20the%20sector%20will%20change%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbo
Power: 240hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 390Nm at 3,000rpm
Transmission: eight-speed auto
Price: from Dh122,745
On sale: now
The specs: 2018 Ford Mustang GT
Price, base / as tested: Dh204,750 / Dh241,500
Engine: 5.0-litre V8
Gearbox: 10-speed automatic
Power: 460hp @ 7,000rpm
Torque: 569Nm @ 4,600rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 10.3L / 100km
Company profile
Name: Steppi
Founders: Joe Franklin and Milos Savic
Launched: February 2020
Size: 10,000 users by the end of July and a goal of 200,000 users by the end of the year
Employees: Five
Based: Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai
Financing stage: Two seed rounds – the first sourced from angel investors and the founders' personal savings
Second round raised Dh720,000 from silent investors in June this year
How being social media savvy can improve your well being
Next time when procastinating online remember that you can save thousands on paying for a personal trainer and a gym membership simply by watching YouTube videos and keeping up with the latest health tips and trends.
As social media apps are becoming more and more consumed by health experts and nutritionists who are using it to awareness and encourage patients to engage in physical activity.
Elizabeth Watson, a personal trainer from Stay Fit gym in Abu Dhabi suggests that “individuals can use social media as a means of keeping fit, there are a lot of great exercises you can do and train from experts at home just by watching videos on YouTube”.
Norlyn Torrena, a clinical nutritionist from Burjeel Hospital advises her clients to be more technologically active “most of my clients are so engaged with their phones that I advise them to download applications that offer health related services”.
Torrena said that “most people believe that dieting and keeping fit is boring”.
However, by using social media apps keeping fit means that people are “modern and are kept up to date with the latest heath tips and trends”.
“It can be a guide to a healthy lifestyle and exercise if used in the correct way, so I really encourage my clients to download health applications” said Mrs Torrena.
People can also connect with each other and exchange “tips and notes, it’s extremely healthy and fun”.
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The squad traveling to Brazil:
Faisal Al Ketbi, Ibrahim Al Hosani, Khalfan Humaid Balhol, Khalifa Saeed Al Suwaidi, Mubarak Basharhil, Obaid Salem Al Nuaimi, Saeed Juma Al Mazrouei, Saoud Abdulla Al Hammadi, Taleb Al Kirbi, Yahia Mansour Al Hammadi, Zayed Al Kaabi, Zayed Saif Al Mansoori, Saaid Haj Hamdou, Hamad Saeed Al Nuaimi. Coaches Roberto Lima and Alex Paz.
Dr Afridi's warning signs of digital addiction
Spending an excessive amount of time on the phone.
Neglecting personal, social, or academic responsibilities.
Losing interest in other activities or hobbies that were once enjoyed.
Having withdrawal symptoms like feeling anxious, restless, or upset when the technology is not available.
Experiencing sleep disturbances or changes in sleep patterns.
What are the guidelines?
Under 18 months: Avoid screen time altogether, except for video chatting with family.
Aged 18-24 months: If screens are introduced, it should be high-quality content watched with a caregiver to help the child understand what they are seeing.
Aged 2-5 years: Limit to one-hour per day of high-quality programming, with co-viewing whenever possible.
Aged 6-12 years: Set consistent limits on screen time to ensure it does not interfere with sleep, physical activity, or social interactions.
Teenagers: Encourage a balanced approach – screens should not replace sleep, exercise, or face-to-face socialisation.
Source: American Paediatric Association
GAC GS8 Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh149,900
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THE BIO
Favourite place to go to in the UAE: The desert sand dunes, just after some rain
Who inspires you: Anybody with new and smart ideas, challenging questions, an open mind and a positive attitude
Where would you like to retire: Most probably in my home country, Hungary, but with frequent returns to the UAE
Favorite book: A book by Transilvanian author, Albert Wass, entitled ‘Sword and Reap’ (Kard es Kasza) - not really known internationally
Favourite subjects in school: Mathematics and science
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In numbers: China in Dubai
The number of Chinese people living in Dubai: An estimated 200,000
Number of Chinese people in International City: Almost 50,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2018/19: 120,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2010: 20,000
Percentage increase in visitors in eight years: 500 per cent
Citadel: Honey Bunny first episode
Directors: Raj & DK
Stars: Varun Dhawan, Samantha Ruth Prabhu, Kashvi Majmundar, Kay Kay Menon
Rating: 4/5
Water waste
In the UAE’s arid climate, small shrubs, bushes and flower beds usually require about six litres of water per square metre, daily. That increases to 12 litres per square metre a day for small trees, and 300 litres for palm trees.
Horticulturists suggest the best time for watering is before 8am or after 6pm, when water won't be dried up by the sun.
A global report published by the Water Resources Institute in August, ranked the UAE 10th out of 164 nations where water supplies are most stretched.
The Emirates is the world’s third largest per capita water consumer after the US and Canada.
The specs
Engine: 1.6-litre 4-cyl turbo and dual electric motors
Power: 300hp at 6,000rpm
Torque: 520Nm at 1,500-3,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 8.0L/100km
Price: from Dh199,900
On sale: now