UAE then and now: the Abu Dhabi souq where dreams came true


James Langton
  • English
  • Arabic

Today, life in the Emirates moves in the fast lane. In a regular series to mark the 50th anniversary of the UAE we take a little trip back in time to see just how much the country has changed.

Visiting the area today, it is hard to tell that this was once the commercial heart of old Abu Dhabi.

The district behind the Corniche, south of Khalifa bin Zayed Street and between Al Lulu Street and Sheikh Rashid bin Saaed Street (Airport Road), was the city's original souq.

It was a haphazard warren of barasti and coral stone stalls. Its origins are lost in the mists of time, or at least the 19th century.

In the beginning, mostly fish, vegetables and dried goods were sold.

The influx of oil money in the late 1950s led to the introduction of exotic goods such as Heinz baked beans, tinned peaches and Wrigley's chewing gum.

  • A cheerful trader shows off his wares in the Abu Dhabi souq in 1962. They include Heinz beans, tinned peaches, and, of course, Vimto. Courtesy: Guy Gravett
    A cheerful trader shows off his wares in the Abu Dhabi souq in 1962. They include Heinz beans, tinned peaches, and, of course, Vimto. Courtesy: Guy Gravett
  • The view over Abu Dhabi souq around 1966. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
    The view over Abu Dhabi souq around 1966. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
  • Another trader in the Abu Dhabi souq around 1962. The Flower Box matches he is selling still use the same packaging today. Courtesy: Guy Gravett
    Another trader in the Abu Dhabi souq around 1962. The Flower Box matches he is selling still use the same packaging today. Courtesy: Guy Gravett
  • The interior of Abu Dhabi souq around 1960 with a shop selling bride chests or mandoos. Courtesy: BP Archive
    The interior of Abu Dhabi souq around 1960 with a shop selling bride chests or mandoos. Courtesy: BP Archive
  • An atmospheric shot of the Abu Dhabi souq taken around 1960. Courtesy: BP Archive
    An atmospheric shot of the Abu Dhabi souq taken around 1960. Courtesy: BP Archive
  • The Abu Dhabi souq taken at some point in the late 1970s/early 1980s. Courtesy: Shaukat Ali Sufi Muhammad / Al Ittihad
    The Abu Dhabi souq taken at some point in the late 1970s/early 1980s. Courtesy: Shaukat Ali Sufi Muhammad / Al Ittihad
  • Traders wait for business as a potential customer passes by in the old Abu Dhabi souq around 1962. Courtesy: Guy Gravett
    Traders wait for business as a potential customer passes by in the old Abu Dhabi souq around 1962. Courtesy: Guy Gravett
  • Your weight for the price of a few coins. Abu Dhabi souq in 1974. Courtesy: Jack Burlot
    Your weight for the price of a few coins. Abu Dhabi souq in 1974. Courtesy: Jack Burlot
  • Posing for a street photographer in the Abu Dhabi souq in 1974. Courtesy: Jack Burlot
    Posing for a street photographer in the Abu Dhabi souq in 1974. Courtesy: Jack Burlot
  • A video and cassette shop specialising in Bollywood films and music from the 1990s-era Abu Dhabi souq. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
    A video and cassette shop specialising in Bollywood films and music from the 1990s-era Abu Dhabi souq. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
  • The Abu Dhabi souq taken possibly at late 1970s/early 1980s. Courtesy: Shaukat Ali Sufi Muhammad / Al Ittihad
    The Abu Dhabi souq taken possibly at late 1970s/early 1980s. Courtesy: Shaukat Ali Sufi Muhammad / Al Ittihad
  • How the Abu Dhabi souq looked in 1971, the year the UAE came into existence. Courtesy: Alain Saint Hilaire
    How the Abu Dhabi souq looked in 1971, the year the UAE came into existence. Courtesy: Alain Saint Hilaire
  • Abu Dhabi's old souq in the early 1980s. Courtesy: Clive McNeil
    Abu Dhabi's old souq in the early 1980s. Courtesy: Clive McNeil
  • The 'Modern Radio Centre' shop in Abu Dhabi souq. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
    The 'Modern Radio Centre' shop in Abu Dhabi souq. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
  • The spiral walkways to the pedestrian bridge across Khalifa bin Zayed Street in the 1990s. The Abu Dhabi souq stretched across both sides. The World Trade Centre stands on the same site today along with Burj Mohammed bin Rashid - Abu Dhabi's tallest building. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
    The spiral walkways to the pedestrian bridge across Khalifa bin Zayed Street in the 1990s. The Abu Dhabi souq stretched across both sides. The World Trade Centre stands on the same site today along with Burj Mohammed bin Rashid - Abu Dhabi's tallest building. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
  • The Abu Dhabi souq in the 1990s taken from Hamdan bin Mohammed Street. Courtesy: Shaukat Ali Sufi Muhammad / Al Ittihad
    The Abu Dhabi souq in the 1990s taken from Hamdan bin Mohammed Street. Courtesy: Shaukat Ali Sufi Muhammad / Al Ittihad
  • A 2003 fire destroyed a lot of Abu Dhabi's original souq. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
    A 2003 fire destroyed a lot of Abu Dhabi's original souq. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
  • It was demolished a year later. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
    It was demolished a year later. Courtesy: Al Ittihad
  • Larger plans were in place for the site and construction of the World Trade Centre started soon after. Huge progress can be seen in this 2013 photograph. Jaime Puebla / The National
    Larger plans were in place for the site and construction of the World Trade Centre started soon after. Huge progress can be seen in this 2013 photograph. Jaime Puebla / The National
  • Inside the construction of the World Trade Centre mall project in 2013. Jaime Puebla / The National
    Inside the construction of the World Trade Centre mall project in 2013. Jaime Puebla / The National
  • The World Trade Centre opened in 2014. Part of the development was built in a souq style to mark that history. Ravindranath K / The National
    The World Trade Centre opened in 2014. Part of the development was built in a souq style to mark that history. Ravindranath K / The National
  • Burj Mohammed bin Rashid, Abu Dhabi's tallest building. The tower is part of the World Trade Centre development and represents the city's ever-modernising skyline. Mona Al Marzooqi / The National
    Burj Mohammed bin Rashid, Abu Dhabi's tallest building. The tower is part of the World Trade Centre development and represents the city's ever-modernising skyline. Mona Al Marzooqi / The National

Ambitious plans by Sheikh Zayed, the UAE's Founding Father, for a new modern city in the late 1960s led to the old souq being swept away, along with the Brahman cattle that once roved the stalls and a dusty path that led directly to Qasr Al Hosn.

It was replaced with a concrete version, covering the old site but much expanded. The 1970s souq extended up to Hamdan Street, bisected by Khalifa bin Zayed Street, which was crossed by a pedestrian walkway.

Particularly popular with the city's growing South Asian population, this second souq did not age well, and a fire in 2003 that gutted large sections prompted a decision to knock it down.

It was eventually replaced in 2010 by a complex that includes the World Trade Centre mall and souq, which covers the original footprint. Many of the traders from the 1970s souq still conduct business on the streets around the area.

The older of these photographs shows the second souq and the bridge over Khalifa bin Zayed Street, which has also since been replaced.

It was taken from the large roundabout on Airport Road next to Etihad Square, which has a history of its own, being the site of the Al Fahim Mosque that dated back to the 1940s.

Commissioned by Mohammed Abdul Jalil Al Fahim, of the famous Abu Dhabi business dynasty, its numerous turrets and minarets made it popular with photographers, until it, too, fell to the sands of time. Trading on this spot, then, has been conducted for three centuries.

Today shoppers browse in air-conditioned comfort, with everything on offer from cupcakes to women's lingerie.

There is a Spinneys at the mall and a Lulu hypermarket at the adjacent Central Market.

Customers of the old souq, more accustomed to rice and dried fish, would surely be much impressed at the selection on offer today.

The National Archives, Abu Dhabi

Founded over 50 years ago, the National Archives collects valuable historical material relating to the UAE, and is the oldest and richest archive relating to the Arabian Gulf.

Much of the material can be viewed on line at the Arabian Gulf Digital Archive - https://www.agda.ae/en

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WOMAN AND CHILD

Director: Saeed Roustaee

Starring: Parinaz Izadyar, Payman Maadi

Rating: 4/5

Neil Thomson – THE BIO

Family: I am happily married to my wife Liz and we have two children together.

Favourite music: Rock music. I started at a young age due to my father’s influence. He played in an Indian rock band The Flintstones who were once asked by Apple Records to fly over to England to perform there.

Favourite book: I constantly find myself reading The Bible.

Favourite film: The Greatest Showman.

Favourite holiday destination: I love visiting Melbourne as I have family there and it’s a wonderful place. New York at Christmas is also magical.

Favourite food: I went to boarding school so I like any cuisine really.

How does ToTok work?

The calling app is available to download on Google Play and Apple App Store

To successfully install ToTok, users are asked to enter their phone number and then create a nickname.

The app then gives users the option add their existing phone contacts, allowing them to immediately contact people also using the application by video or voice call or via message.

Users can also invite other contacts to download ToTok to allow them to make contact through the app.

 

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Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
  • Priority access to new homes from participating developers
  • Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
  • Flexible payment plans from developers
  • Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
  • DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
if you go

The flights

Emirates offer flights to Buenos Aires from Dubai, via Rio De Janeiro from around Dh6,300. emirates.com

Seeing the games

Tangol sell experiences across South America and generally have good access to tickets for most of the big teams in Buenos Aires: Boca Juniors, River Plate, and Independiente. Prices from Dh550 and include pick up and drop off from your hotel in the city. tangol.com

 

Staying there

Tangol will pick up tourists from any hotel in Buenos Aires, but after the intensity of the game, the Faena makes for tranquil, upmarket accommodation. Doubles from Dh1,110. faena.com

 

The specs: 2018 Chevrolet Trailblazer

Price, base / as tested Dh99,000 / Dh132,000

Engine 3.6L V6

Transmission: Six-speed automatic

Power 275hp @ 6,000rpm

Torque 350Nm @ 3,700rpm

Fuel economy combined 12.2L / 100km

COMPANY%20PROFILE
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The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat 

Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026

1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years

If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.

2. E-invoicing in the UAE

Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption. 

3. More tax audits

Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks. 

4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime

Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.

5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit

There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.

6. Further transfer pricing enforcement

Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes. 

7. Limited time periods for audits

Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion. 

8. Pillar 2 implementation 

Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.

9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services

Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations. 

10. Substance and CbC reporting focus

Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity. 

Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer

TOURNAMENT INFO

Fixtures
Sunday January 5 - Oman v UAE
Monday January 6 - UAE v Namibia
Wednesday January 8 - Oman v Namibia
Thursday January 9 - Oman v UAE
Saturday January 11 - UAE v Namibia
Sunday January 12 – Oman v Namibia

UAE squad
Ahmed Raza (captain), Rohan Mustafa, Mohammed Usman, CP Rizwan, Waheed Ahmed, Zawar Farid, Darius D’Silva, Karthik Meiyappan, Jonathan Figy, Vriitya Aravind, Zahoor Khan, Junaid Siddique, Basil Hameed, Chirag Suri

MATCH INFO

Bangla Tigers 108-5 (10 ovs)

Ingram 37, Rossouw 26, Pretorius 2-10

Deccan Gladiators 109-4 (9.5 ovs)

Watson 41, Devcich 27, Wiese 2-15

Gladiators win by six wickets

Director: Laxman Utekar

Cast: Vicky Kaushal, Akshaye Khanna, Diana Penty, Vineet Kumar Singh, Rashmika Mandanna

Rating: 1/5

UAE players with central contracts

Rohan Mustafa, Ashfaq Ahmed, Chirag Suri, Rameez Shahzad, Shaiman Anwar, Adnan Mufti, Mohammed Usman, Ghulam Shabbir, Ahmed Raza, Qadeer Ahmed, Amir Hayat, Mohammed Naveed and Imran Haider.

Australia tour of Pakistan

March 4-8: First Test, Rawalpindi  

March 12-16: Second Test, Karachi 

March 21-25: Third Test, Lahore

March 29: First ODI, Rawalpindi

March 31: Second ODI, Rawalpindi

April 2: Third ODI, Rawalpindi

April 5: T20I, Rawalpindi

Tips for newlyweds to better manage finances

All couples are unique and have to create a financial blueprint that is most suitable for their relationship, says Vijay Valecha, chief investment officer at Century Financial. He offers his top five tips for couples to better manage their finances.

Discuss your assets and debts: When married, it’s important to understand each other’s personal financial situation. It’s necessary to know upfront what each party brings to the table, as debts and assets affect spending habits and joint loan qualifications. Discussing all aspects of their finances as a couple prevents anyone from being blindsided later.

Decide on the financial/saving goals: Spouses should independently list their top goals and share their lists with one another to shape a joint plan. Writing down clear goals will help them determine how much to save each month, how much to put aside for short-term goals, and how they will reach their long-term financial goals.

Set a budget: A budget can keep the couple be mindful of their income and expenses. With a monthly budget, couples will know exactly how much they can spend in a category each month, how much they have to work with and what spending areas need to be evaluated.

Decide who manages what: When it comes to handling finances, it’s a good idea to decide who manages what. For example, one person might take on the day-to-day bills, while the other tackles long-term investments and retirement plans.

Money date nights: Talking about money should be a healthy, ongoing conversation and couples should not wait for something to go wrong. They should set time aside every month to talk about future financial decisions and see the progress they’ve made together towards accomplishing their goals.

Paatal Lok season two

Directors: Avinash Arun, Prosit Roy 

Stars: Jaideep Ahlawat, Ishwak Singh, Lc Sekhose, Merenla Imsong

Rating: 4.5/5

Who has lived at The Bishops Avenue?
  • George Sainsbury of the supermarket dynasty, sugar magnate William Park Lyle and actress Dame Gracie Fields were residents in the 1930s when the street was only known as ‘Millionaires’ Row’.
  • Then came the international super rich, including the last king of Greece, Constantine II, the Sultan of Brunei and Indian steel magnate Lakshmi Mittal who was at one point ranked the third richest person in the world.
  • Turkish tycoon Halis Torprak sold his mansion for £50m in 2008 after spending just two days there. The House of Saud sold 10 properties on the road in 2013 for almost £80m.
  • Other residents have included Iraqi businessman Nemir Kirdar, singer Ariana Grande, holiday camp impresario Sir Billy Butlin, businessman Asil Nadir, Paul McCartney’s former wife Heather Mills. 
Hunting park to luxury living
  • Land was originally the Bishop of London's hunting park, hence the name
  • The road was laid out in the mid 19th Century, meandering through woodland and farmland
  • Its earliest houses at the turn of the 20th Century were substantial detached properties with extensive grounds

 

Timeline

2012-2015

The company offers payments/bribes to win key contracts in the Middle East

May 2017

The UK SFO officially opens investigation into Petrofac’s use of agents, corruption, and potential bribery to secure contracts

September 2021

Petrofac pleads guilty to seven counts of failing to prevent bribery under the UK Bribery Act

October 2021

Court fines Petrofac £77 million for bribery. Former executive receives a two-year suspended sentence 

December 2024

Petrofac enters into comprehensive restructuring to strengthen the financial position of the group

May 2025

The High Court of England and Wales approves the company’s restructuring plan

July 2025

The Court of Appeal issues a judgment challenging parts of the restructuring plan

August 2025

Petrofac issues a business update to execute the restructuring and confirms it will appeal the Court of Appeal decision

October 2025

Petrofac loses a major TenneT offshore wind contract worth €13 billion. Holding company files for administration in the UK. Petrofac delisted from the London Stock Exchange

November 2025

180 Petrofac employees laid off in the UAE

New UK refugee system

 

  • A new “core protection” for refugees moving from permanent to a more basic, temporary protection
  • Shortened leave to remain - refugees will receive 30 months instead of five years
  • A longer path to settlement with no indefinite settled status until a refugee has spent 20 years in Britain
  • To encourage refugees to integrate the government will encourage them to out of the core protection route wherever possible.
  • Under core protection there will be no automatic right to family reunion
  • Refugees will have a reduced right to public funds
The biog

Alwyn Stephen says much of his success is a result of taking an educated chance on business decisions.

His advice to anyone starting out in business is to have no fear as life is about taking on challenges.

“If you have the ambition and dream of something, follow that dream, be positive, determined and set goals.

"Nothing and no-one can stop you from succeeding with the right work application, and a little bit of luck along the way.”

Mr Stephen sells his luxury fragrances at selected perfumeries around the UAE, including the House of Niche Boutique in Al Seef.

He relaxes by spending time with his family at home, and enjoying his wife’s India cooking. 

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If you go

The flights

There are direct flights from Dubai to Sofia with FlyDubai (www.flydubai.com) and Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com), from Dh1,164 and Dh822 return including taxes, respectively.

The trip

Plovdiv is 150km from Sofia, with an hourly bus service taking around 2 hours and costing $16 (Dh58). The Rhodopes can be reached from Sofia in between 2-4hours.

The trip was organised by Bulguides (www.bulguides.com), which organises guided trips throughout Bulgaria. Guiding, accommodation, food and transfers from Plovdiv to the mountains and back costs around 170 USD for a four-day, three-night trip.

 

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.

Part three: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

PROFILE

Name: Enhance Fitness 

Year started: 2018 

Based: UAE 

Employees: 200 

Amount raised: $3m 

Investors: Global Ventures and angel investors 

How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE

When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.