![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/NXXYSL3TVTLOAHZOZ5D7R6FWTI.jpg?smart=true&auth=c9bb55db5e21d1d18aaed08599eb735f034683f4c179b776505493193fb955e0&width=400&height=225)
Ali's mother, Eida Al Darei presents guests with a choice of 12 perfumes. Tradition dictates the guest must not only be well fed but well scented.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/LUXBK43R4MYHQWNIYLNX7JACC4.jpg?smart=true&auth=513fa4318b7d0052c79b381c03de5a750a922848b86193334cc3a5e454461308&width=400&height=225)
Ali Al Darei with his camels in Qoa, a desert town on the Abu Dhabi-Oman border. All photos by Chris Whiteoak / The National
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/CEDDERXUQVPIRNVMPQPIN4SUJE.jpg?smart=true&auth=b673be16898d81082101d7bb748d9c27f7c44de4e24f1091e338de3a5a926217&width=400&height=225)
"If the origin of the camel is good, the camel will be good" says Ali Al Darei, 21. Chris Whiteoak / The National
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/UAAJNSYQZWFN6ZVPG6G3HEHBLA.jpg?smart=true&auth=431d47bb76955869f370d7ad8fb82a91fbc58e7eba88f09960ea4c1c1664c68a&width=400&height=225)
Qoa is about as isolated as it gets in the UAE.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/ZEBZZ7BFX4GVFAFPGNOUAYORMQ.jpg?smart=true&auth=86407eeebe1d70e42cfe620c01e24ad2e06e19d558724ba2ac91e1bfa270712b&width=400&height=225)
Al Ain is 90 minutes north of the town.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/TI43GMOURQ4CK73FTYP3GEXKSY.jpg?smart=true&auth=b14d780af202a24bab575b8e5dbf10fa2361951ace63c424d4a0f1384c51aec6&width=400&height=225)
Head south and there’s nothing until the palms of the Liwa oasis, a five-hour drive on a restricted access motorway that cuts through the Empty Quarter.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/3C6AK6HTUMPSDM3BM6KR4UYASI.jpg?smart=true&auth=53560fbd17057a975241e3ca39f3fb68ca09a3d5b28a3531183d4d730a5cc3af&width=400&height=225)
Qoa is a Bedouin community known for its quality of camels.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/HFBSLTCVVYGF2W4LQ7ZVT6MWW4.jpg?smart=true&auth=36bface2b81b8dbacbee7485b4735259407da4dc64b820920b0bfdb74030c845&width=400&height=225)
Ali Al Darei welcomes guests to his majlis.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/NXXYSL3TVTLOAHZOZ5D7R6FWTI.jpg?smart=true&auth=c9bb55db5e21d1d18aaed08599eb735f034683f4c179b776505493193fb955e0&width=400&height=225)
Ali's mother, Eida Al Darei presents guests with a choice of 12 perfumes. Tradition dictates the guest must not only be well fed but well scented.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/LUXBK43R4MYHQWNIYLNX7JACC4.jpg?smart=true&auth=513fa4318b7d0052c79b381c03de5a750a922848b86193334cc3a5e454461308&width=400&height=225)
Ali Al Darei with his camels in Qoa, a desert town on the Abu Dhabi-Oman border. All photos by Chris Whiteoak / The National
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/CEDDERXUQVPIRNVMPQPIN4SUJE.jpg?smart=true&auth=b673be16898d81082101d7bb748d9c27f7c44de4e24f1091e338de3a5a926217&width=400&height=225)
"If the origin of the camel is good, the camel will be good" says Ali Al Darei, 21. Chris Whiteoak / The National
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/UAAJNSYQZWFN6ZVPG6G3HEHBLA.jpg?smart=true&auth=431d47bb76955869f370d7ad8fb82a91fbc58e7eba88f09960ea4c1c1664c68a&width=400&height=225)
Qoa is about as isolated as it gets in the UAE.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/ZEBZZ7BFX4GVFAFPGNOUAYORMQ.jpg?smart=true&auth=86407eeebe1d70e42cfe620c01e24ad2e06e19d558724ba2ac91e1bfa270712b&width=400&height=225)
Al Ain is 90 minutes north of the town.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/TI43GMOURQ4CK73FTYP3GEXKSY.jpg?smart=true&auth=b14d780af202a24bab575b8e5dbf10fa2361951ace63c424d4a0f1384c51aec6&width=400&height=225)
Head south and there’s nothing until the palms of the Liwa oasis, a five-hour drive on a restricted access motorway that cuts through the Empty Quarter.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/3C6AK6HTUMPSDM3BM6KR4UYASI.jpg?smart=true&auth=53560fbd17057a975241e3ca39f3fb68ca09a3d5b28a3531183d4d730a5cc3af&width=400&height=225)
Qoa is a Bedouin community known for its quality of camels.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/HFBSLTCVVYGF2W4LQ7ZVT6MWW4.jpg?smart=true&auth=36bface2b81b8dbacbee7485b4735259407da4dc64b820920b0bfdb74030c845&width=400&height=225)
Ali Al Darei welcomes guests to his majlis.
![](https://thenational-the-national-prod.cdn.arcpublishing.com/resizer/v2/NXXYSL3TVTLOAHZOZ5D7R6FWTI.jpg?smart=true&auth=c9bb55db5e21d1d18aaed08599eb735f034683f4c179b776505493193fb955e0&width=400&height=225)
Ali's mother, Eida Al Darei presents guests with a choice of 12 perfumes. Tradition dictates the guest must not only be well fed but well scented.
Neighbourhood Watch: A rare glimpse of Bedouin life in the humble border town of Qoa
The nomadic lifestyle is in the past for breeders but camels still bring social mobility in this remote desert community
Anna Zacharias
16 August, 2018
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- Listen In Arabic