Nice by name, nice by nature.
With a mix of old-world opulence and year-round sunshine, the French Riviera city has coastline, culture and charm by the bucketload.
Unesco-listed in 2021, the principal of the Cote d’Azur entices holidaymakers with its sights, sounds and flavours. The birthplace of jazz in France, Nice is also where you'll find some of the best restaurants in the south of the country. Here, dishes come alive with fresh, local fare from the Mediterranean Sea.
In the Old Town, colours and atmosphere nod to the region's historic Italian past, and the city's fashionable boutiques, effortlessly cool eateries and pebbled beaches offer something for everyone.
Getting to this French seaside destination from the Gulf is easier than ever as Etihad Airways now operates seasonal flights. Gulf Air also flies direct to Nice from Bahrain. If you’re planning on spending a few days exploring this gem, here’s what should be on your radar.
The promenade
Any visit to Nice should start on the Promenade des Anglais, the city’s most popular destination on the outskirts of the Old Town. Flanked by palm trees, it's home to some of the best hotels including the eccentric pink-domed Le Negresco — a legendary spot that's been a favourite of celebrities, royalty, millionaires and politicians for more than 100 years.
The seven-kilometre promenade was once the preferred strolling spot for British aristocrats and, more than a century later, is still the place to go for a morning run, a scenic amble or an evening drink at one of the myriad waterfront bars and restaurants. Try boho-chic Ruhl Plage for a sundowner overlooking the Bay of Angels, or grab a table at Les Jardins du Capitole, where you can order a Nicoise salad — the dish originates from the region — served traditional-style on a platter of lettuce, right opposite the ocean. Painted public benches and pergolas offering shade from the Mediterranean sunshine make this a great place to people-watch, so grab an ice cream and take in the view.
Forget golden sands, the majority of Nice’s beaches are pebble-strewn, which can take a bit of getting used to when it comes to sunbathing. There are several beach clubs dotted along the shoreline including Regence Plage and Plage Beau Rivage Nice that you can pay to enter, but if you want to lounge like the locals, pack a yoga mat for some extra padding and go to one of the public beaches. Head west off the main strip to find quieter spots and crystal-clear waters perfect for a swim and a snorkel.
From here, stroll upwards away from the promenade and you’ll reach hilltop neighbourhood Fabron. This leafy residential area has amazing views of the coastline and is also home to a lesser-known museum showcasing the history of Naive Art. Stop at Boulangerie Napoleon III, where it's worth the calories to treat yourself to one of the city's best almond croissants.
Flower markets and live jazz in the Old Town
As the fifth-largest city in France, Nice is not small, but its efficient tramway makes getting around easy. Hop aboard for an afternoon in the heart of the Unesco-listed city. Disembark at Opera — Vieille Ville and you’ll find yourself in the Old Town. This cavern of winding alleyways throngs with visitors, vendors and locals who mosey along shadowed streets lined with historic tenement buildings, restaurants, galleries, cafes and more.
If you prefer, save this spot until the morning when early birds are rewarded with a colourful, fragrant experience at the Flower Market in Cours Saleya square. Under red-and-white striped awnings, this market is more than 100 years old and you'll find every flower imaginable — from deep-violet lavenders to sunshine yellow mimosas. Evening visits offer fewer florals, but more music at Apero Jazz at Cafe le Flore, an open-air French restaurant with live New Orleans-style tunes. If you can’t get a table, don't fret, there's more live jazz at nearby Palais de Justice Square.
Towering over the Old Town is the Castle on the Hill. Not the inspiration for Ed Sheeran’s 2017 hit of the same name, but home to the ruins of the Castle of Nice, which was destroyed some 300 years ago. Perched almost 100 metres above the rooftops of the Old Town, it’s the place to go for dramatic harbour views. At the top, you’ll find a picturesque park and artificial waterfall, visitors can also ride the art deco-style public lift 92 metres down to the port below.
Italian charm in the South of France
Not far from Castle Hill is Garibaldi Square — a reference to this French city when it was part of the Provence of Liguria. A bronze statue and fountain in the centre are dedicated to Italian revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi, who was born here. At the top of the square, opposite the 18th-century Chapelle du Saint-Sepulcre, stop to view the open-air exhibition, running until October
Nica La Bella Treasure of the Riviera showcases photographs of Nice, its people and its visitors. It includes canvasses depicting Queen Victoria holidaying in the French Riviera, Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall visiting in 2018 and French rock 'n' roll star Johnny Hallyday riding a bicycle along the promenade.
If you’re peckish afterwards, sample some of the city’s most-renowned oysters at nearby Cafe du Turin, or indulge at long-standing patisserie Serain Cappa.
To the west is Place Massena, the main square in Nice. Here you’ll find salmon and ochre-coloured buildings, towering illuminated Buddha-style statues and the grandiose Fontaine du Soleil which depicts Apollo as the sun and five bronze statues denoting planets. Dining at nearby L'Aromate, a one Michelin-starred restaurant serving contemporary French fare, comes highly recommended.
Nice’s flagship urban park is also right by the fountain, covering 12 hectares in the heart of the city. The Promenade du Paillon is popular with families for its shaded, tree-lined areas and fantastical wooden animal climbing frames and you’ll see children run and shriek in the Miroir d'Eau — a 3,000-square-metre paved area dotted with water jets soaking anyone in their vicinity.
If shopping is on your radar, Le Carre d’Or is the place to go for all things luxury. This chic district is famed for its boutique stores and belle epoque architecture and counts Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Armani and Hermes boutiques among its well-heeled residents.
Art, cathedrals and sunsets to remember
For more budget-friendly retail therapy, the Jean-Medecin district offers French shopping and dining galore. It’s also where you can indulge your cultural cravings at the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and the Musee Massena, a venue with plenty of historic artwork and artefacts. If you visit the former, don’t miss the observation deck on the roof which has 360-degree views over the city.
Just behind the museum is La Tete Carree Library, a massive cube-shaped sculpture of a head, within which you’ll discover an entire library. Even if you don't venture inside, it's a worthy photo. After an intense shopping and culture marathon, revive yourself with French cheese and charcuterie boards at nearby Bay Side restaurant and bar.
Should your craving for art not yet be sated, head a little out of the city towards the Cimiez neighbourhood and The Musee Matisse. This homage to Henri Matisse has one of the world’s largest collections of the artist’s work, including painting, photographs, and decorative objects.
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On your way back into town, detour slightly if you want to see the most ornate onion-domed Russian cathedral in the South of France. Located on Avenue Nicolas II, just off Boulevard du Tzarewitch, Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas de Nice is the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in western Europe and its unique beauty — with colourful architecture, ornate interiors and detailed murals — makes it worthy of a visit, despite a distinct lack of visitor information.
South of here and back towards the ocean is The AC Hotel Nice by Marriott. This art-centric abode is flanked by two huge bronze Venus sculptures and regularly hosts exhibitions showcasing local artists. Up on the roof is Farago, a place demanding to be visited around sunset.
With perhaps the best golden hour views in the city with vistas over the Mediterranean, the terracotta rooftops in Nice and the distant Southern Alps, this poolside terrace also serves excellent tapas and live music and is an entirely fitting place to watch the sun go down on a thrilling weekend in the Cote d'Azur capital.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The more serious side of specialty coffee
While the taste of beans and freshness of roast is paramount to the specialty coffee scene, so is sustainability and workers’ rights.
The bulk of genuine specialty coffee companies aim to improve on these elements in every stage of production via direct relationships with farmers. For instance, Mokha 1450 on Al Wasl Road strives to work predominantly with women-owned and -operated coffee organisations, including female farmers in the Sabree mountains of Yemen.
Because, as the boutique’s owner, Garfield Kerr, points out: “women represent over 90 per cent of the coffee value chain, but are woefully underrepresented in less than 10 per cent of ownership and management throughout the global coffee industry.”
One of the UAE’s largest suppliers of green (meaning not-yet-roasted) beans, Raw Coffee, is a founding member of the Partnership of Gender Equity, which aims to empower female coffee farmers and harvesters.
Also, globally, many companies have found the perfect way to recycle old coffee grounds: they create the perfect fertile soil in which to grow mushrooms.
Our family matters legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
The advice provided in our columns does not constitute legal advice and is provided for information only. Readers are encouraged to seek independent legal advice.
RESULTS
5pm Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (Dirt) 1,400m
Winner AF Nashrah, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Ernst Oertel (trainer)
5.30pm Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,400m
Winner Mutaqadim, Riccardo Iacopini, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami.
6pm Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner Hameem, Jose Santiago, Abdallah Al Hammadi.
6.30pm Maiden (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner AF Almomayaz, Sandro Paiva, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.
7pm Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,800m
Winner Dalil Al Carrere, Fernando Jara, Mohamed Daggash.
7.30pm Handicap (TB) Dh70,000 (D) 1,000m
Winner Lahmoom, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer.
8pm Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (D) 1,000m
Winner Jayide Al Boraq, Bernardo Pinheiro, Khalifa Al Neyadi.
Law%2041.9.4%20of%20men%E2%80%99s%20T20I%20playing%20conditions
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Analysis
Members of Syria's Alawite minority community face threat in their heartland after one of the deadliest days in country’s recent history. Read more
UPI facts
More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions
RESULTS
5pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 1,200m
Winner: Ferdous, Szczepan Mazur (jockey), Ibrahim Al Hadhrami (trainer)
5.30pm: Arabian Triple Crown Round-3 Group 3 (PA) Dh300,000 2,400m
Winner: Basmah, Fabrice Veron, Eric Lemartinel
6pm: UAE Arabian Derby Prestige (PA) Dh150,000 2,200m
Winner: Ihtesham, Szczepan Mazur, Ibrahim Al Hadhrami
6.30pm: Emirates Championship Group 1 (PA) Dh1,000,000 2,200m
Winner: Somoud, Patrick Cosgrave, Ahmed Al Mehairbi
7pm: Abu Dhabi Championship Group 3 (TB) Dh380,000 2,200m
Winner: GM Hopkins, Patrick Cosgrave, Jaber Ramadhan
7.30pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Conditions (PA) Dh70,000 1,600m
Winner: AF Al Bairaq, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel
Roll%20of%20Honour%2C%20men%E2%80%99s%20domestic%20rugby%20season
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EWest%20Asia%20Premiership%3C%2Fstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3EChampions%3A%20Dubai%20Tigers%0D%3Cbr%3ERunners%20up%3A%20Bahrain%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EUAE%20Premiership%3C%2Fstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3EChampions%3A%20Jebel%20Ali%20Dragons%0D%3Cbr%3ERunners%20up%3A%20Dubai%20Hurricanes%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EUAE%20Division%201%3C%2Fstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3EChampions%3A%20Dubai%20Sharks%0D%3Cbr%3ERunners%20up%3A%20Abu%20Dhabi%20Harlequins%20II%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EUAE%20Division%202%3C%2Fstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3EChampions%3A%20Dubai%20Tigers%20III%0D%3Cbr%3ERunners%20up%3A%20Dubai%20Sharks%20II%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDubai%20Sevens%3C%2Fstrong%3E%0D%3Cbr%3EChampions%3A%20Dubai%20Tigers%0D%3Cbr%3ERunners%20up%3A%20Dubai%20Hurricanes%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
'The Batman'
Stars:Robert Pattinson
Director:Matt Reeves
Rating: 5/5
UAE jiu-jitsu squad
Men: Hamad Nawad and Khalid Al Balushi (56kg), Omar Al Fadhli and Saeed Al Mazroui (62kg), Taleb Al Kirbi and Humaid Al Kaabi (69kg), Mohammed Al Qubaisi and Saud Al Hammadi (70kg), Khalfan Belhol and Mohammad Haitham Radhi (85kg), Faisal Al Ketbi and Zayed Al Kaabi (94kg)
Women: Wadima Al Yafei and Mahra Al Hanaei (49kg), Bashayer Al Matrooshi and Hessa Al Shamsi (62kg)
The biog
Favourite book: Animal Farm by George Orwell
Favourite music: Classical
Hobbies: Reading and writing
Stuck in a job without a pay rise? Here's what to do
Chris Greaves, the managing director of Hays Gulf Region, says those without a pay rise for an extended period must start asking questions – both of themselves and their employer.
“First, are they happy with that or do they want more?” he says. “Job-seeking is a time-consuming, frustrating and long-winded affair so are they prepared to put themselves through that rigmarole? Before they consider that, they must ask their employer what is happening.”
Most employees bring up pay rise queries at their annual performance appraisal and find out what the company has in store for them from a career perspective.
Those with no formal appraisal system, Mr Greaves says, should ask HR or their line manager for an assessment.
“You want to find out how they value your contribution and where your job could go,” he says. “You’ve got to be brave enough to ask some questions and if you don’t like the answers then you have to develop a strategy or change jobs if you are prepared to go through the job-seeking process.”
For those that do reach the salary negotiation with their current employer, Mr Greaves says there is no point in asking for less than 5 per cent.
“However, this can only really have any chance of success if you can identify where you add value to the business (preferably you can put a monetary value on it), or you can point to a sustained contribution above the call of duty or to other achievements you think your employer will value.”
'Fantastic Beasts: The Secrets of Dumbledore'
Rating: 3/5
Directed by: David Yates
Starring: Mads Mikkelson, Eddie Redmayne, Ezra Miller, Jude Law
Indoor Cricket World Cup
Venue Insportz, Dubai, September 16-23
UAE squad Saqib Nazir (captain), Aaqib Malik, Fahad Al Hashmi, Isuru Umesh, Nadir Hussain, Sachin Talwar, Nashwan Nasir, Prashath Kumara, Ramveer Rai, Sameer Nayyak, Umar Shah, Vikrant Shetty
Tips for job-seekers
- Do not submit your application through the Easy Apply button on LinkedIn. Employers receive between 600 and 800 replies for each job advert on the platform. If you are the right fit for a job, connect to a relevant person in the company on LinkedIn and send them a direct message.
- Make sure you are an exact fit for the job advertised. If you are an HR manager with five years’ experience in retail and the job requires a similar candidate with five years’ experience in consumer, you should apply. But if you have no experience in HR, do not apply for the job.
David Mackenzie, founder of recruitment agency Mackenzie Jones Middle East
Sole survivors
- Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
- George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
- Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
- Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl turbo
Power: 247hp at 6,500rpm
Torque: 370Nm from 1,500-3,500rpm
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 7.8L/100km
Price: from Dh94,900
On sale: now
Dubai World Cup Carnival Thursday race card
6.30pm: Dubai Millennium Stakes Group Three US$200,000 (Turf) 2,000m
7.05pm: Handicap $135,000 (T) 1,600m
7.40pm: UAE Oaks Group Three $250,000 (Dirt) 1,900m
8.15pm: Zabeel Mile Group Two $250,000 (T) 1,600m
8.50pm: Meydan Sprint Group Two $250,000 (T) 1,000m
9.25pm: Handicap $135,000 (D) 1,400m
10pm: Handicap $135,000 (T) 1,600m
It Was Just an Accident
Director: Jafar Panahi
Stars: Vahid Mobasseri, Mariam Afshari, Ebrahim Azizi, Hadis Pakbaten, Majid Panahi, Mohamad Ali Elyasmehr
Rating: 4/5
THE%20SWIMMERS
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The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
The specs: 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo
Price, base / as tested: Dh182,178
Engine: 3.7-litre V6
Power: 350hp @ 7,400rpm
Torque: 374Nm @ 5,200rpm
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic
Fuel consumption, combined: 10.5L / 100km
Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Getting%20there%20and%20where%20to%20stay
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