There are only 22 pieces in the new Hindamme collection, yet designer Mohammed Khoja has managed to squeeze upscale street style, fringing (one of the hottest trends right now), evening wear and even unisex velvet bomber jackets into the line.
Not a bad effort for a label only on its fourth collection.
I have never seen Al Ula represented in print before, and I tried to mix things up by taking elements inspired by it
For this latest line, Khoja took his inspiration from Al Ula in his native Saudi Arabia. The site was built by the Nabataean civilisation, who also created Petra.
"I am quite inspired by my surroundings and my environment," says Khoja. "I think Al Ula is such an interesting piece of history, which in large part has been quite forgotten. As a Saudi I am rediscovering this incredible civilisation."
Hindamme is a complex label. At first glance, it offers simple, often unisex T-shirts, shirts and jackets. Yet look closer, and behind each piece is intricate symbolism and a reference to regional history.
“I try to create collections that are able to resonate because I view fashion not just as retail, but as an extension of culture, and I love the idea of being able to wear something that elaborates further on culture and has a message.
"Some references are very literal, some are very obscure, and this was a deliberate choice. Take this spring/summer collection, for instance. I have never seen Al Ula represented in print before, and I tried to mix things up by taking elements inspired by it [that were] a bit more obscure, not too literal.” The hand-beading, for example, is a reference to the great wealth that the Nabataeans had.
He says: “I wanted to integrate old-world craftsmanship into contemporary ready-to-wear and street wear, so I found a textile expert who works on palaces, restoring couches and furniture. I had the idea to use the slanting Gobelin embroidery that normally you see in cushions and integrate that into the jackets.”
The result is dense tapestry weaving around necklines, while elsewhere linear markings run down sleeves and across torsos.
“Those marks are taken from the text of the Nabataean language. I did not translate them – I was hoping to, but when I spoke to a professor, she said it was very difficult to get an exact translation, and advised me to leave it as it is. So I kept it as it was written down on the walls. It is quite beautiful.”
Of course, one question about Hindamme is about the company name and what it means. Khoja says using his own name was never an option, and instead, true to form, he looked to the past for inspiration.
“I wanted a name to reflect the philosophy of both East and West, and I found an Arabic word that is really no longer used. In fact it is so obscure, many Arabs would not even know what it means, which I like. Hindamme means to possess, like in harmony and aesthetic.
"An older generation of Arabs would have used it to describe someone who was well dressed and took care of their appearance. I thought it was a fitting name. Also, it is easily pronounced by a non-Arabic tongue.”
This ability to lightly layer multiple meanings seems to come so easily to this young designer, perhaps without him realising the wider significance. Case in point, in 2018 he created a range of gleaming black and green bomber jackets to celebrate the lifting of the ban on driving for Saudi women. The historic date of June 24, 2018 was emblazoned across the back in large gold embroidery. The range sold out almost instantly and London’s Victoria & Albert Museum bought one for its permanent collection.
“I feel I am able to start bringing elements of my culture in a way that the West can appreciate it, that is relatable. The way I communicated the lifting of the [driving] ban was as a positive outcome for everyone in the world, not just for Saudi.
“I am still trying to find my place as a designer. I am following my own inspiration and I encourage others to give their own interpretation, not what you think is popular and trendy. Be authentic, because that is what makes you interesting.”
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Other acts on the Jazz Garden bill
Sharrie Williams
The American singer is hugely respected in blues circles due to her passionate vocals and songwriting. Born and raised in Michigan, Williams began recording and touring as a teenage gospel singer. Her career took off with the blues band The Wiseguys. Such was the acclaim of their live shows that they toured throughout Europe and in Africa. As a solo artist, Williams has also collaborated with the likes of the late Dizzy Gillespie, Van Morrison and Mavis Staples.
Lin Rountree
An accomplished smooth jazz artist who blends his chilled approach with R‘n’B. Trained at the Duke Ellington School of the Arts in Washington, DC, Rountree formed his own band in 2004. He has also recorded with the likes of Kem, Dwele and Conya Doss. He comes to Dubai on the back of his new single Pass The Groove, from his forthcoming 2018 album Stronger Still, which may follow his five previous solo albums in cracking the top 10 of the US jazz charts.
Anita Williams
Dubai-based singer Anita Williams will open the night with a set of covers and swing, jazz and blues standards that made her an in-demand singer across the emirate. The Irish singer has been performing in Dubai since 2008 at venues such as MusicHall and Voda Bar. Her Jazz Garden appearance is career highlight as she will use the event to perform the original song Big Blue Eyes, the single from her debut solo album, due for release soon.
Some of Darwish's last words
"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008
His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.
In numbers: China in Dubai
The number of Chinese people living in Dubai: An estimated 200,000
Number of Chinese people in International City: Almost 50,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2018/19: 120,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2010: 20,000
Percentage increase in visitors in eight years: 500 per cent
Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026
1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years
If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.
2. E-invoicing in the UAE
Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption.
3. More tax audits
Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks.
4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime
Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.
5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit
There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.
6. Further transfer pricing enforcement
Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes.
7. Limited time periods for audits
Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion.
8. Pillar 2 implementation
Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.
9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services
Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations.
10. Substance and CbC reporting focus
Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity.
Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer
