Chefs at work in Icho's teppanyaki grill.
Chefs at work in Icho's teppanyaki grill.

Restaurant Review: no shortage of wacky creations at Icho



Icho, the Japanese restaurant at the Radisson Royal hotel on Sheikh Zayed Road in Dubai, certainly offers diners plenty of choice: three floors of it, in fact. At level 51, you can sample sushi while sipping drinks at the bar, floor 50 boasts a teppanyaki grill "where you can have a more theatrical dining experience", or you can opt to stay put on level 49 and flip through a menu featuring "Japanese specialities", which is exactly what we did.

All the way up there, the view through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the snaking highways and twinkling lights below is impressive. The decor is, to my eye at least, less so; while the intention may well be to reference Japanese minimalism, the stark symmetry of the room gives it a rather functional feel.

Eschewing some of the more wacky creations in the speciality sushi rolls section - which included a fish, chip and tartare sauce combination - we began with something a little more conventional, in the form of a three-piece sashimi selection plate. The contrasting colours of the raw fish (salmon, flounder and tuna) looked pretty on the plate and, importantly, tasted very fresh. Real wasabi provided the requisite pungent heat, and tangles of shredded raw white cabbage were pleasingly crunchy. By no means a wow dish, but a clean, refreshing start to the evening.

Our next two appetisers appeared a little while later. That is not meant as a criticism; I rather liked the measured, rhythmic manner in which they arrived; it gave us enough time to focus on each dish individually, rather than fighting to distinguish between a mêlée of flavours, which is what tends to happen when all the food comes at once.

The beef tataki dish was very good - our favourite of the evening. The slivers of very quickly seared meat had plenty of flavour and were well-marbled, with a properly melting texture and a slightly smoky aftertaste, which worked well with the sweet, citrusy soy dipping sauce. On a different note, we also really liked the unusual, khaki-green ceramic plate that the beef was served on.

Slices of roast duck were dressed in a pleasant, sticky soy and orange glaze, but the meat itself had been cooked for a little too long, meaning that it had a slightly gamey flavour and was quite chewy. The largest of the dishes we had ordered arrived next and was very simple, but much more successful: king crab cooked on the teppanyaki grill. When I first saw it, I did question the logic of covering the delicately flavoured, vaguely sweet white meat in a tomato-based sauce and while I'm still not convinced that the dish wouldn't have been better had this been served on the side, thankfully it did not overpower the taste of the crab.

Almost as an afterthought, we asked for a side order of vegetables, and were glad we had, thanks to the interesting combination of juicy shimeji mushrooms, green and white cabbage and charred onions all braised in a mixture of (I think) ginger, miso and soy.

The attentiveness of the service at Icho could do with a little toning down, and the attention to detail with ramping up. If that sounds nonsensical, then let me explain: within minutes of being handed the menu, three different people asked us if we were ready to order, but when we asked questions about various dishes, no one could tell us the specifics, until they had checked back with the kitchen.

A meal like this presents something of a conundrum: I can't say that I would recommend the restaurant unreservedly, but if friends told me that they were planning to go, then neither would I want to discourage them.

A meal for two at Icho, Radisson Royal hotel, costs Dh400, including service charge. For reservations call 04 308 0000. Reviewed meals are paid for by The National and reviews are conducted incognito

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2024 Dubai Marathon Results

Women’s race:
1. Tigist Ketema (ETH) 2hrs 16min 7sec
2. Ruti Aga (ETH) 2:18:09
3. Dera Dida (ETH) 2:19:29
Men's race:
1. Addisu Gobena (ETH) 2:05:01
2. Lemi Dumicha (ETH) 2:05:20
3. DejeneMegersa (ETH) 2:05:42

SPECS

Engine: 4-litre V8 twin-turbo
Power: 630hp
Torque: 850Nm
Transmission: 8-speed Tiptronic automatic
Price: From Dh599,000
On sale: Now

Specs

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Max power: 800hp
Max torque: 950Nm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Battery: 25.7kWh lithium-ion
0-100km/h: 3.4sec
0-200km/h: 11.4sec
Top speed: 312km/h
Max electric-only range: 60km (claimed)
On sale: Q3
Price: From Dh1.2m (estimate)

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Director: Shashank Khaitan

Starring: Janhvi Kapoor, Ishaan Khattar, Ashutosh Rana

Stars: 3

Company Profile

Name: HyveGeo
Started: 2023
Founders: Abdulaziz bin Redha, Dr Samsurin Welch, Eva Morales and Dr Harjit Singh
Based: Cambridge and Dubai
Number of employees: 8
Industry: Sustainability & Environment
Funding: $200,000 plus undisclosed grant
Investors: Venture capital and government

COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Ejari
Based: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Founders: Yazeed Al Shamsi, Fahad Albedah, Mohammed Alkhelewy and Khalid Almunif
Sector: PropTech
Total funding: $1 million
Investors: Sanabil 500 Mena, Hambro Perks' Oryx Fund and angel investors
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Law 41.9.4 of men’s T20I playing conditions

The fielding side shall be ready to start each over within 60 seconds of the previous over being completed.
An electronic clock will be displayed at the ground that counts down seconds from 60 to zero.
The clock is not required or, if already started, can be cancelled if:
• A new batter comes to the wicket between overs.
• An official drinks interval has been called.
• The umpires have approved the on field treatment of an injury to a batter or fielder.
• The time lost is for any circumstances beyond the control of the fielding side.
• The third umpire starts the clock either when the ball has become dead at the end of the previous over, or a review has been completed.
• The team gets two warnings if they are not ready to start overs after the clock reaches zero.
• On the third and any subsequent occasion in an innings, the bowler’s end umpire awards five runs.

The specs: 2018 Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross

Price, base / as tested: Dh101,140 / Dh113,800


Engine: Turbocharged 1.5-litre four-cylinder


Power: 148hp @ 5,500rpm


Torque: 250Nm @ 2,000rpm


Transmission: Eight-speed CVT


Fuel consumption, combined: 7.0L / 100km

Quick facts
  • Storstockholms Lokaltrafik (SL) offers free guided tours of art in the metro and at the stations
  • The tours are free of charge; all you need is a valid SL ticket, for which a single journey (valid for 75 minutes) costs 39 Swedish krone ($3.75)
  • Travel cards for unlimited journeys are priced at 165 Swedish krone for 24 hours
  • Avoid rush hour – between 9.30 am and 4.30 pm – to explore the artwork at leisure
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In 2016, the Shaded Dome was awarded with the 'De Vernufteling' people's choice award, an annual prize by the Dutch Association of Consulting Engineers and the Royal Netherlands Society of Engineers for the most innovative project by a Dutch engineering firm.

It was assigned by the Dutch Ministry of Defence to modify the Shaded Dome to make it suitable for ballistic protection. Royal HaskoningDHV, one of the companies which designed the dome, is an independent international engineering and project management consultancy, leading the way in sustainable development and innovation.

It is driving positive change through innovation and technology, helping use resources more efficiently.

It aims to minimise the impact on the environment by leading by example in its projects in sustainable development and innovation, to become part of the solution to a more sustainable society now and into the future.

The Continental: From the World of John Wick

Created by: Greg Coolidge, Shawn Simmons, Kirk Ward
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Sweet Tooth

Creator: Jim Mickle
Starring: Christian Convery, Nonso Anozie, Adeel Akhtar, Stefania LaVie Owen
Rating: 2.5/5

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Manchester City 1 (Gundogan 56')

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Want to sound on message about the biggest show on television without actually watching it? Best not to get locked into the labyrinthine tales of revenge and royalty: as Isaac Hempstead Wright put it, all you really need to know from now on is that there’s going to be a huge fight between humans and the armies of undead White Walkers.

The season ended with a dragon captured by the Night King blowing apart the huge wall of ice that separates the human world from its less appealing counterpart. Not that some of the humans in Westeros have been particularly appealing, either.

Anyway, the White Walkers are now free to cause any kind of havoc they wish, and as Liam Cunningham told us: “Westeros may be zombie land after the Night King has finished.” If the various human factions don’t put aside their differences in season 8, we could be looking at The Walking Dead: The Medieval Years.

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Engine: 6.5-litre V12
Power: 725hp at 7,750rpm
Torque: 716Nm at 6,250rpm
Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch auto
On sale: Q4 2023
Price: From Dh1,650,000

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Director:Anthony Hayes

Stars:Zaf Efron, Anthony Hayes

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Which honey takes your fancy?

Al Ghaf Honey

The Al Ghaf tree is a local desert tree which bears the harsh summers with drought and high temperatures. From the rich flowers, bees that pollinate this tree can produce delicious red colour honey in June and July each year

Sidr Honey

The Sidr tree is an evergreen tree with long and strong forked branches. The blossom from this tree is called Yabyab, which provides rich food for bees to produce honey in October and November. This honey is the most expensive, but tastiest

Samar Honey

The Samar tree trunk, leaves and blossom contains Barm which is the secret of healing. You can enjoy the best types of honey from this tree every year in May and June. It is an historical witness to the life of the Emirati nation which represents the harsh desert and mountain environments

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Diriyah project at a glance

- Diriyah’s 1.9km King Salman Boulevard, a Parisian Champs-Elysees-inspired avenue, is scheduled for completion in 2028
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