A beginner's guide to the fashion show



Some of us love fashion, some of us are indifferent and, for some, watching a fashion show is about as fascinating as cardboard; most of us don't care to make it past the half-starved teens in some fairly questionable creations of wild proportions. It's often easier to ridicule something than to understand it, especially in a world where inspirations are often somewhat incomprehensible. So that's what we do; we write it off, brush it aside, think of it as silly. The bottom line is that most of us just don't get fashion - or the whole point of distinguishing oneself from the herd - but, like anything, it is often derived from a lack of understanding than direct opposition. So perhaps we need to start with the basics; get down to the point of things and how the whole fairground ride works.

Fashion loves (of course) elitism and being ahead of the game, so it works a season ahead. In fact, fashion weeks are held several months in advance of each season to allow the press and buyers a chance to preview designs. From January until April, designers show their autumn/winter collections, and from September through to November are the spring/summer collections. This is also to allow time for the buyers to purchase or incorporate the designers into their retail marketing.

The actual industry event is simply used as a platform for fashion designers to showcase their latest collections and for the buyers and the media to decide on the trends for the season. Just to confuse things further (if it wasn't enough) there are two other mini seasons if you like - the first is what we call pre-fall, or cruise (usually more commercial than the main collections) and the second is the collection of couture shows held in Paris.

New York City, London, Milan and Paris, known as the famous four, each hold a fashion week bi-annually. New York starts off the autumn/winter series in February, with Paris ending it in March. The next batch (spring/summer) starts in September and ends in October.

So who should we watch out for and how does it relate to us? Well, let's start with London because it doesn't take itself quite as seriously; in fact, it encourages experimentation both in mood and style. We are more likely to find younger, more experimental labels here that are well worth investing in. Design duo Meadham Kirchoff are on the rise with their continuing display of colourful theatrical pieces, as are Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou with their clever use of cutting and print techniques.

New York, the most commercial of the four, guarantees a slightly more wearable aesthetic with the more classic designers taking precedence - think chic without show. Carolina Herrera, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs - all the bigwigs - still rule the roost but designers such as Jason Wu, Alexander Wang and Prabal Gurung are injecting a slice of fresh glamour these days.

Milan attracts the buyers and the Hollywood stars with its often flamboyant shows, from the likes of Donatella Versace, Cavalli and Moschino, but Paris, which houses most of the world's couture houses, still holds the highest regard.

As I always try to emphasise, there is no right way to look at fashion - it remains solely up to the observer - but there is nothing worse than a culture snob, for that defies the whole point of understanding and enjoying culture in the first place. Read up on things, enjoy the craftsmanship for what it is and, for goodness sake, never ask who would actually wear the stuff. Remember fashion only takes itself rather seriously because an inordinate amount of time and work goes into it, so if you find yourself in the midst of it all just try to fake it like a ballerina fakes a smile en pointe; you never know, you may just enjoy something.

THE LIGHT

Director: Tom Tykwer

Starring: Tala Al Deen, Nicolette Krebitz, Lars Eidinger

Rating: 3/5

Company profile

Name: Back to Games and Boardgame Space

Started: Back to Games (2015); Boardgame Space (Mark Azzam became co-founder in 2017)

Founder: Back to Games (Mr Azzam); Boardgame Space (Mr Azzam and Feras Al Bastaki)

Based: Dubai and Abu Dhabi 

Industry: Back to Games (retail); Boardgame Space (wholesale and distribution) 

Funding: Back to Games: self-funded by Mr Azzam with Dh1.3 million; Mr Azzam invested Dh250,000 in Boardgame Space  

Growth: Back to Games: from 300 products in 2015 to 7,000 in 2019; Boardgame Space: from 34 games in 2017 to 3,500 in 2019

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Plan to boost public schools

A major shake-up of government-run schools was rolled out across the country in 2017. Known as the Emirati School Model, it placed more emphasis on maths and science while also adding practical skills to the curriculum.

It was accompanied by the promise of a Dh5 billion investment, over six years, to pay for state-of-the-art infrastructure improvements.

Aspects of the school model will be extended to international private schools, the education minister has previously suggested.

Recent developments have also included the introduction of moral education - which public and private schools both must teach - along with reform of the exams system and tougher teacher licensing requirements.

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: ARDH Collective
Based: Dubai
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Sector: Sustainability
Total funding: Self funded
Number of employees: 4
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THE BIO

Favourite car: Koenigsegg Agera RS or Renault Trezor concept car.

Favourite book: I Am Pilgrim by Terry Hayes or Red Notice by Bill Browder.

Biggest inspiration: My husband Nik. He really got me through a lot with his positivity.

Favourite holiday destination: Being at home in Australia, as I travel all over the world for work. It’s great to just hang out with my husband and family.

 

 

Seven tips from Emirates NBD

1. Never respond to e-mails, calls or messages asking for account, card or internet banking details

2. Never store a card PIN (personal identification number) in your mobile or in your wallet

3. Ensure online shopping websites are secure and verified before providing card details

4. Change passwords periodically as a precautionary measure

5. Never share authentication data such as passwords, card PINs and OTPs  (one-time passwords) with third parties

6. Track bank notifications regarding transaction discrepancies

7. Report lost or stolen debit and credit cards immediately

The Sand Castle

Director: Matty Brown

Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea

Rating: 2.5/5

The specs

AT4 Ultimate, as tested

Engine: 6.2-litre V8

Power: 420hp

Torque: 623Nm

Transmission: 10-speed automatic

Price: From Dh330,800 (Elevation: Dh236,400; AT4: Dh286,800; Denali: Dh345,800)

On sale: Now

Emergency

Director: Kangana Ranaut

Stars: Kangana Ranaut, Anupam Kher, Shreyas Talpade, Milind Soman, Mahima Chaudhry 

Rating: 2/5

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

A Prayer Before Dawn

Director: Jean-Stephane Sauvaire

Starring: Joe Cole, Somluck Kamsing, Panya Yimmumphai

Three stars

Guide to intelligent investing
Investing success often hinges on discipline and perspective. As markets fluctuate, remember these guiding principles:
  • Stay invested: Time in the market, not timing the market, is critical to long-term gains.
  • Rational thinking: Breathe and avoid emotional decision-making; let logic and planning guide your actions.
  • Strategic patience: Understand why you’re investing and allow time for your strategies to unfold.