Chanel unveiled its latest high jewellery collection in Paris last week.
Consisting of 11 sets, the collection broke from the fashion house’s traditional ‘codes’ and was instead defined by its freedom and breadth. At its heart, the pieces were an exploration of the power of jewellery, particularly its tallismatic and symbolic qualities. Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel herself placed great stock in symbols, talismans and lucky charms, wearing the same yellow citrine ring on the little finger of her left hand for much of her life, and keeping an icon gifted to her by Igor Stravinsky on her bedside table.
The collection features brilliant diamonds, Japanese cultured pearls, sapphires and other breathtakingly beautiful precious stones, but also experiments with new materials and techniques, introducing bright multicoloured lacquer and enamel in to the mix.
“There are two types of collections,” explained Benjamin Comar, Chanel’s international high jewellery director. “There are those that are based on one aesthetic, the more figurative collections, with the lions, for example, or the feather. Here, it is more spirit-orientated, inspired by Gabrielle Chanel and all the objects she had that protected her and gave her the strength to manage this company and be a strong woman in the 1920s. She was very superstitious and this is a collection about that. It’s not a direct link, but about things that give you the power, strength and energy to move on in today’s world.”