Illustration by Chris Burke for The National
Illustration by Chris Burke for The National

Sultan Al Darmaki: Emirati follows his heart - and sole



Sultan Al Darmaki tried the career expected of him, but ultimately could not ignore his lifelong passion for fashion designing. His new role designing shoes is not only influenced by the likes of Louboutin, Choo and Blahnik but also by his mother, Hadeel Al Sayegh writes

When Sultan Al Darmaki announced to his mother that he was leaving the finance world to design women's shoes, it almost knocked her off her heels.

The Emirati designer, who came from a traditional family in Al Ain, was expected to end up in finance or public relations (PR) after three years working as an executive at a government investment company.

But for Mr Al Darmaki, he was fulfilling a dream he had had since he was 10 years old.

"We had a very long chat and I told her that for a long time I have done what the family wanted to do and now is the right time to do what I wanted to do," says Mr Al Darmaki, who was born in 1982 and is one of 10 children.

Mr Al Darmaki's father gained status and wealth through property management. His mother, however, was his inspiration for fashion. As a youth, Mr Al Darmaki would travel with his mother to Beirut, Paris, and other fashion cities of the Arab world and the West, as she bought haute couture pieces from Dior, Elie Saab, and Givenchy.

"My mother is extravagant. She's always had a fine taste for style. She appreciated a beautiful cut, or a beautiful colour," the designer says. "I have to give her all the credit. She trained me in her very own way."

Despite the fact that Mr Al Darmaki had been drawing sketches since he was 10, his family would not initially allow him to apply for fashion school in Paris when he was a teenager. They insisted he take on a more traditional role in business.

He opted to study PR and marketing at the American University of Sharjah, but he still kept the fashion flame burning by continuing to sketch shoes.

He graduated and pursued a career in PR working in the Abu Dhabi government sector. He started at ADWEA, the Abu Dhabi Tourism Authority, and then finally a government investment company.

"I wasn't able to do those roles for more than two years," Mr Al Darmaki says. "It's like I knew what I wanted to do but, I was clearly in denial."

After coming to terms with his need to pursue his dream, he took a flight toMilan, Italy, to meet manufacturers that work with luxury brands. Mr Al Darmaki did not schedule an appointment and was afraid he would be turned away.

"Here we go, I thought," he says. "I am going to get escorted out of the building."

But luckily for him, they made time for him and were very receptive to his vision.

Mr Al Darmaki spent nearly four months coming up with a name for his shoes during the establishment of his firm in London.

"I wanted to make sure it competed with international brands. After looking at several options I told my team: 'I'm sorry guys, but it's my brand name, it's my name. Why wouldn't I be proud of having my name on my product?'"

Having "Darmaki" literally stamped on the shoes was a main cause of concern.

It was finally decided to have the sole imprinted with the letter "D" along with a dragonfly, the Al Darmaki family emblem, which symbolises wealth and prosperity.

"I wouldn't want anyone to 'step' on my family," Mr Al Darmaki said. "As long as we have those boundaries and make sure we do not disrespect the family name, it's perfectly fine."

In the past, Emirati men who ran shops such as Abu Dhabi's Mandoos that sell the na'al, the popular slipper worn by both men and women in the Gulf, were solely entrepreneurs and not designers.

"I was very worried about how people will react to the idea of an Emirati man as a shoe designer," Mr Al Darmaki says. "The support we got from that market was phenomenal, so we ticked the box."

Mr Al Darmaki had success from the start, although he admits he has been fortunate. After just two seasons, he has more than doubled his buyers, from three to seven retail companies, selling his products across the GCC, Europe and the US.

"We weren't expecting any sales because it was a purely marketing exercise," Mr Al Darmaki says. "We had regular showrooms during Paris Fashion Week and would talk to potential buyers, run them through the collection and tell them what we are trying to do, and we managed to close deals."

Prior to the launch of his shoe business, Mr Al Darmaki was seen as somewhat introverted.

"I would never ask anyone for advice," he says. "But my personality has changed, because in this business you have to network and rub shoulders with people who have been in the industry for a long time. No one is going to knock on your door and ask if you need it. If I didn't have these contacts, honestly, I wouldn't know where I would be right now."

The designer aims to have big department stores, such as Neiman Marcus, Macy's, Harrods and Dubai's Chalhoub Group, carrying his shoe collection.

"The big department stores want to see consistency. Are they going to survive the next season? Because of the cost of the prototype, many designers drop out because they can't afford to continue."

The most expensive part of any shoe business is the sampling. Getting a prototype of 25 pairs of shoes at a luxury standard could cost anywhere between €50,000 (Dh244,855) and €100,000, depending on the mould of the shoe and material being used. "For a start-up, that's a lot of money."

Mr Al Darmaki spent four years holding down two or three jobs on top of his role in PR to get the cash together. "When we first launched the brand, many people said: 'He's a Darmaki, he has the money.'

"I would laugh because when I first started, I didn't have the funds.My dad taught us early on to work hard to get something. He always said he wasn't born with a gold spoon in his mouth. He had to work hard to build his fortune."

Mr Al Darmaki studied business models of successful women's shoe manufacturers.

"I wanted to make sure it had a bit of Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin and Manolo Blahnik," he says.

"Jimmy Choo is a very successful business, every time they sell a stake to a private partner, it has a massive financial return. Louboutin as a brand is recognised for its strong identity after it made a patent on the red sole. We wanted the look and feel of Manolo Blahnik, which are very classical shoes, that you could still wear in 10 years time."

Mr Al Darmaki has been in discussions with potential partners to sell a 20 per cent stake in his company. The proceeds of the funds will be used to shift his day-to-day operations to New York and expand his production to about 2,500 to 5,000 shoes per season, from the current 300 to 500. Darmaki's headquarters will remain in London.

"When you look at the different fashion weeks, whether it is Milan, Paris or London, New York is still on top," Mr Al Darmaki says. "It's the big brother that approves which brand will make it or break it. This is why New York is important for us."

His plans also include helping young Emirati designers establish successful fashion lines abroad.

"We are diversifying the UAE economy into different industries, but the younger generation have different interests. So why can't we adapt to that? Our culture is not daring and scared of taking that big leap into the unknown," he says.

"Many young designers are creative, but need a 360° understanding of the business. One of our mandates includes creating an incubator type fund that will help young designers establish themselves. I am hoping that Darmaki will change that perception."

London's Victoria & Albert Museum in August acquired Darmaki's Lydia shoe, to represent contemporary Middle Eastern fashion, in its permanent collection. He is the first Emirati designer to have his work showcased in the museum.

"Who would have thought that one day, an Emirati from Al Ain, would have his work displayed in the V&A Museum?"

twitter: Follow our breaking business news and retweet to your followers. Follow us

Juliet, Naked
Dir: Jesse Peretz
Starring: Chris O'Dowd, Rose Byrne, Ethan Hawke​​​​​​​
​​​​​​​Two stars

COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
 
Started: 2020
 
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
 
Based: Dubai, UAE
 
Sector: Entertainment 
 
Number of staff: 210 
 
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
Game Changer

Director: Shankar 

Stars: Ram Charan, Kiara Advani, Anjali, S J Suryah, Jayaram

Rating: 2/5

THE SPECS

Range Rover Sport Autobiography Dynamic

Engine: 5.0-litre supercharged V8

Transmission: six-speed manual

Power: 518bhp

Torque: 625Nm

Speed: 0-100kmh 5.3 seconds

Price: Dh633,435

On sale: now

%20Ramez%20Gab%20Min%20El%20Akher
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECreator%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Ramez%20Galal%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Ramez%20Galal%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStreaming%20on%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EMBC%20Shahid%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2.5%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbo

Power: 258hp from 5,000-6,500rpm

Torque: 400Nm from 1,550-4,000rpm

Transmission: Eight-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 6.1L/100km

Price: from Dh362,500

On sale: now

THE SPECS

Engine: 1.5-litre turbocharged four-cylinder

Transmission: Constant Variable (CVT)

Power: 141bhp 

Torque: 250Nm 

Price: Dh64,500

On sale: Now

Indoor cricket in a nutshell

Indoor Cricket World Cup – Sep 16-20, Insportz, Dubai

16 Indoor cricket matches are 16 overs per side

8 There are eight players per team

There have been nine Indoor Cricket World Cups for men. Australia have won every one.

5 Five runs are deducted from the score when a wickets falls

Batsmen bat in pairs, facing four overs per partnership

Scoring In indoor cricket, runs are scored by way of both physical and bonus runs. Physical runs are scored by both batsmen completing a run from one crease to the other. Bonus runs are scored when the ball hits a net in different zones, but only when at least one physical run is score.

Zones

A Front net, behind the striker and wicketkeeper: 0 runs

B Side nets, between the striker and halfway down the pitch: 1 run

Side nets between halfway and the bowlers end: 2 runs

Back net: 4 runs on the bounce, 6 runs on the full

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAlmouneer%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202017%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dr%20Noha%20Khater%20and%20Rania%20Kadry%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EEgypt%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20staff%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E120%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EBootstrapped%2C%20with%20support%20from%20Insead%20and%20Egyptian%20government%2C%20seed%20round%20of%20%3Cbr%3E%243.6%20million%20led%20by%20Global%20Ventures%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
German intelligence warnings
  • 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
  • 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
  • 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250 

Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution

Other workplace saving schemes
  • The UAE government announced a retirement savings plan for private and free zone sector employees in 2023.
  • Dubai’s savings retirement scheme for foreign employees working in the emirate’s government and public sector came into effect in 2022.
  • National Bonds unveiled a Golden Pension Scheme in 2022 to help private-sector foreign employees with their financial planning.
  • In April 2021, Hayah Insurance unveiled a workplace savings plan to help UAE employees save for their retirement.
  • Lunate, an Abu Dhabi-based investment manager, has launched a fund that will allow UAE private companies to offer employees investment returns on end-of-service benefits.
The Sand Castle

Director: Matty Brown

Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea

Rating: 2.5/5

How to protect yourself when air quality drops

Install an air filter in your home.

Close your windows and turn on the AC.

Shower or bath after being outside.

Wear a face mask.

Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.

If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.

21 Lessons for the 21st Century

Yuval Noah Harari, Jonathan Cape
 

Scotland's team:

15-Sean Maitland, 14-Darcy Graham, 13-Nick Grigg, 12-Sam Johnson, 11-Byron McGuigan, 10-Finn Russell, 9-Ali Price, 8-Magnus Bradbury, 7-Hamish Watson, 6-Sam Skinner, 5-Grant Gilchrist, 4-Ben Toolis, 3-Willem Nel, 2-Stuart McInally (captain), 1-Allan Dell

Replacements: 16-Fraser Brown, 17-Gordon Reid, 18-Simon Berghan, 19-Jonny Gray, 20-Josh Strauss, 21-Greig Laidlaw, 22-Adam Hastings, 23-Chris Harris

Cryopreservation: A timeline
  1. Keyhole surgery under general anaesthetic
  2. Ovarian tissue surgically removed
  3. Tissue processed in a high-tech facility
  4. Tissue re-implanted at a time of the patient’s choosing
  5. Full hormone production regained within 4-6 months
The specs

Engine: 1.5-litre 4-cyl turbo

Power: 194hp at 5,600rpm

Torque: 275Nm from 2,000-4,000rpm

Transmission: 6-speed auto

Price: from Dh155,000

On sale: now

Mia Man’s tips for fermentation

- Start with a simple recipe such as yogurt or sauerkraut

- Keep your hands and kitchen tools clean. Sanitize knives, cutting boards, tongs and storage jars with boiling water before you start.

- Mold is bad: the colour pink is a sign of mold. If yogurt turns pink as it ferments, you need to discard it and start again. For kraut, if you remove the top leaves and see any sign of mold, you should discard the batch.

- Always use clean, closed, airtight lids and containers such as mason jars when fermenting yogurt and kraut. Keep the lid closed to prevent insects and contaminants from getting in.

 

The specs

Engine: Dual 180kW and 300kW front and rear motors

Power: 480kW

Torque: 850Nm

Transmission: Single-speed automatic

Price: From Dh359,900 ($98,000)

On sale: Now

The%20specs
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2.3-litre%204cyl%20turbo%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E299hp%20at%205%2C500rpm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E420Nm%20at%202%2C750rpm%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E10-speed%20auto%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFuel%20consumption%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E12.4L%2F100km%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENow%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFrom%20Dh157%2C395%20(XLS)%3B%20Dh199%2C395%20(Limited)%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: ARDH Collective
Based: Dubai
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Sector: Sustainability
Total funding: Self funded
Number of employees: 4
Formula Middle East Calendar (Formula Regional and Formula 4)
Round 1: January 17-19, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 2: January 22-23, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 3: February 7-9, Dubai Autodrome – Dubai
 
Round 4: February 14-16, Yas Marina Circuit – Abu Dhabi
 
Round 5: February 25-27, Jeddah Corniche Circuit – Saudi Arabia
Dubai Bling season three

Cast: Loujain Adada, Zeina Khoury, Farhana Bodi, Ebraheem Al Samadi, Mona Kattan, and couples Safa & Fahad Siddiqui and DJ Bliss & Danya Mohammed 

Rating: 1/5

Brief scores

Toss India, chose to bat

India 281-7 in 50 ov (Pandya 83, Dhoni 79; Coulter-Nile 3-44)

Australia 137-9 in 21 ov (Maxwell 39, Warner 25; Chahal 3-30)

India won by 26 runs on Duckworth-Lewis Method

MATCH INFO

Chelsea 1 (Hudson-Odoi 90 1')

Manchester City 3 (Gundogan 18', Foden 21', De Bruyne 34')

Man of the match: Ilkay Gundogan (Man City)

COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Revibe%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202022%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Hamza%20Iraqui%20and%20Abdessamad%20Ben%20Zakour%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20UAE%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Refurbished%20electronics%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunds%20raised%20so%20far%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%2410m%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFlat6Labs%2C%20Resonance%20and%20various%20others%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Guide to intelligent investing
Investing success often hinges on discipline and perspective. As markets fluctuate, remember these guiding principles:
  • Stay invested: Time in the market, not timing the market, is critical to long-term gains.
  • Rational thinking: Breathe and avoid emotional decision-making; let logic and planning guide your actions.
  • Strategic patience: Understand why you’re investing and allow time for your strategies to unfold.
 
 
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
SPECS
%3Cp%3EEngine%3A%20Twin-turbocharged%204-litre%20V8%3Cbr%3EPower%3A%20625%20bhp%3Cbr%3ETorque%3A%20630Nm%3Cbr%3EOn%20sale%3A%20Now%3Cbr%3EPrice%3A%20From%20Dh974%2C011%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
If you go
Where to stay: Courtyard by Marriott Titusville Kennedy Space Centre has unparalleled views of the Indian River. Alligators can be spotted from hotel room balconies, as can several rocket launch sites. The hotel also boasts cool space-themed decor.

When to go: Florida is best experienced during the winter months, from November to May, before the humidity kicks in.

How to get there: Emirates currently flies from Dubai to Orlando five times a week.
Going grey? A stylist's advice

If you’re going to go grey, a great style, well-cared for hair (in a sleek, classy style, like a bob), and a young spirit and attitude go a long way, says Maria Dowling, founder of the Maria Dowling Salon in Dubai.
It’s easier to go grey from a lighter colour, so you may want to do that first. And this is the time to try a shorter style, she advises. Then a stylist can introduce highlights, start lightening up the roots, and let it fade out. Once it’s entirely grey, a purple shampoo will prevent yellowing.
“Get professional help – there’s no other way to go around it,” she says. “And don’t just let it grow out because that looks really bad. Put effort into it: properly condition, straighten, get regular trims, make sure it’s glossy.”

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
FIGHT INFO

Men’s 60kg Round 1:

Ahmad Shuja Jamal (AFG) beat Krisada Takhiankliang (THA) - points 
Hyan Aljmyah (SYR) beat Akram Alyminee (YEM) - retired Round 1
Ibrahim Bilal (UAE) beat Bhanu Pratap Pandit (IND) - TKO Round 1

Men’s 71kg Round 1:
Seyed Kaveh Soleyman (IRI) beat Abedel Rahman (JOR) - RSC round 3.
Amine Al Moatassime (UAE) walk over Ritiz Puri (NEP)

MATCH INFO

Uefa Champions League semi-final:

First leg: Liverpool 5 Roma 2

Second leg: Wednesday, May 2, Stadio Olimpico, Rome

TV: BeIN Sports, 10.45pm (UAE)

The%C2%A0specs%20
%3Cp%3E%0D%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E6-cylinder%2C%204.8-litre%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E5-speed%20automatic%20and%20manual%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E280%20brake%20horsepower%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E451Nm%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Efrom%20Dh153%2C00%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Enow%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Emergency

Director: Kangana Ranaut

Stars: Kangana Ranaut, Anupam Kher, Shreyas Talpade, Milind Soman, Mahima Chaudhry 

Rating: 2/5

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The specs

Engine: Four electric motors, one at each wheel

Power: 579hp

Torque: 859Nm

Transmission: Single-speed automatic

Price: From Dh825,900

On sale: Now