The right time to celebrate these classical greats



For classical music, years like 2009 come almost as rarely as Halley's Comet. In a flurry of activity unseen since the bicentenary of Mozart's death, a remarkable constellation of composer anniversaries are packed into the next 12 months. The great Austrian Haydn died 200 years ago, the same year in which that most popular composer of the Victorians, Mendelssohn, was born. It is also the 250th anniversary of the Baroque master Handel's death, while Britain's exquisite opera pioneer Henry Purcell was born 350 years ago this September.

Responding to surging public interest, orchestras and musicians around the world have thrown themselves into a storm of commemoration, with opera seasons, radio retrospectives, gala concerts and CD box-set releases being showered on music-lovers like confetti at a wedding. Abu Dhabi is also getting in on the act, with the Vienna Philharmonic performing Mendelssohn's thrilling masterwork the Octet for Strings, in the courtyard of the Al-Jahili fortress in Al Ain on Wednesday.

This revival can surely only be a good thing - can't it? Well, for all the musicians and listeners joyously experiencing fresh parts of the repertoire, there are, inevitably, a few dissenting voices. Whenever a major anniversary comes along, hype is often perilously close to overshadowing the music itself. As a young visitor to Austria's Mozart Year in 1991, I remember battling through blasé coach parties, shopping for souvenir trinkets and guzzling Mozart marzipan balls more than I do any music I heard. There's also a danger that only the best-known and most publicly digestible music gets an airing, drowning out music unconnected to the anniversaries. The unusually prominent line-up of musical stars this year, for example, means that the 50th anniversary of the fine Czech composer Bohuslav Martinu's death has been overshadowed by classical and baroque splendour.

At the same time, anniversaries help bring composers about whom preconceptions have become cosily fixed back into focus, giving us a chance to reassess and enjoy their output anew. Of all the figures with centenaries in 2009, this seems to be especially true of Haydn, a composer who can seem both dauntingly prolific and strangely shadowy for uninitiated listeners. Arguably the world's least known great composer, Haydn's is a name that is widely recognised but difficult for most people to attach to a familiar piece of music. A man with a long and relatively uneventful life, he spent most of his placid career as court composer to the aristocratic Hungarian Eszterházy family at their elephantine palace south-east of Vienna.

With a vast oeuvre carefully tuned to the refined but studiedly moderate tastes of his patrons, it's been said that Haydn's failure as a musical celebrity (though not as a composer) lay in neither dying young or going deaf. This self-effacing existence, along with his proximity in time to Mozart and Beethoven (whom he taught briefly), has led to the composer being quite unjustifiably perceived as an also-ran.

As this year's revival of interest has shown, this is a big mistake. We are, after all, talking about the man who effectively created the classical symphony, producing music that is almost invariably fresh and delightful - and somehow especially sympathetic and warm towards its listeners. With major retrospectives of his work worldwide and even a 50 CD box set of his collected works, enthusiasm for this important figure appears to be returning - in a no tunpleasant example of classical anniversary year commercialism, specialist travel companies are even offering pilgrimages to his former home in the dusty baroque Eszterházy Palace. Having a whole year in which to focus on the man has also helped provide a frame for his mind-bogglingly large oeuvre: Britain's BBC Radio Three is currently rattling through his 104 symphonies by broadcasting two a week.

It's such efforts that make anniversaries like 2009 so exciting, providing enough buzz to introduce some of the most interesting and beautiful music ever written to people who might otherwise have passed it by. This month in Al Ain, for example, audiences can pinch themselves again and ask how something as mellifluously fluent and exciting as Mendelssohn's Octet for Strings could have been written by a mere 16-year-old. Amid all the supposed stuffiness and elitism of classical music, moments like this are invaluable in reminding us just how much fantastic, life-enhancing music there is out there for the taking.

If you go...

Fly from Dubai or Abu Dhabi to Chiang Mai in Thailand, via Bangkok, before taking a five-hour bus ride across the Laos border to Huay Xai. The land border crossing at Huay Xai is a well-trodden route, meaning entry is swift, though travellers should be aware of visa requirements for both countries.

Flights from Dubai start at Dh4,000 return with Emirates, while Etihad flights from Abu Dhabi start at Dh2,000. Local buses can be booked in Chiang Mai from around Dh50

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Coming soon

Torno Subito by Massimo Bottura

When the W Dubai – The Palm hotel opens at the end of this year, one of the highlights will be Massimo Bottura’s new restaurant, Torno Subito, which promises “to take guests on a journey back to 1960s Italy”. It is the three Michelinstarred chef’s first venture in Dubai and should be every bit as ambitious as you would expect from the man whose restaurant in Italy, Osteria Francescana, was crowned number one in this year’s list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Akira Back Dubai

Another exciting opening at the W Dubai – The Palm hotel is South Korean chef Akira Back’s new restaurant, which will continue to showcase some of the finest Asian food in the world. Back, whose Seoul restaurant, Dosa, won a Michelin star last year, describes his menu as,  “an innovative Japanese cuisine prepared with a Korean accent”.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

The highly experimental chef, whose dishes are as much about spectacle as taste, opens his first restaurant in Dubai next year. Housed at The Royal Atlantis Resort & Residences, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal will feature contemporary twists on recipes that date back to the 1300s, including goats’ milk cheesecake. Always remember with a Blumenthal dish: nothing is quite as it seems. 

if you go

The flights

Flydubai flies to Podgorica or nearby Tivat via Sarajevo from Dh2,155 return including taxes. Turkish Airlines flies from Abu Dhabi and Dubai to Podgorica via Istanbul; alternatively, fly with Flydubai from Dubai to Belgrade and take a short flight with Montenegro Air to Podgorica. Etihad flies from Abu Dhabi to Podgorica via Belgrade. Flights cost from about Dh3,000 return including taxes. There are buses from Podgorica to Plav. 

The tour

While you can apply for a permit for the route yourself, it’s best to travel with an agency that will arrange it for you. These include Zbulo in Albania (www.zbulo.org) or Zalaz in Montenegro (www.zalaz.me).

 

‘FSO Safer’ - a ticking bomb

The Safer has been moored off the Yemeni coast of Ras Issa since 1988.
The Houthis have been blockading UN efforts to inspect and maintain the vessel since 2015, when the war between the group and the Yemen government, backed by the Saudi-led coalition began.
Since then, a handful of people acting as a skeleton crew, have performed rudimentary maintenance work to keep the Safer intact.
The Safer is connected to a pipeline from the oil-rich city of Marib, and was once a hub for the storage and export of crude oil.

The Safer’s environmental and humanitarian impact may extend well beyond Yemen, experts believe, into the surrounding waters of Saudi Arabia, Djibouti and Eritrea, impacting marine-life and vital infrastructure like desalination plans and fishing ports. 

Sarfira

Director: Sudha Kongara Prasad

Starring: Akshay Kumar, Radhika Madan, Paresh Rawal

Rating: 2/5

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