The modernist ruins that tell the story of Cuba’s revolution


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It's a warm November evening and the ruins of the School of Ballet on the outskirts of Havana are bathed in golden light. It accentuates the rich colour of the red brick and casts long shadows across the manicured grass. The city has celebrated its 500th anniversary with a spate of high-profile openings and restorations, but here, amid the weathered walls of a forgotten masterpiece, time has been frozen for more than half a century.  

Cuba's National Art Schools are among the most unique and spectacular examples of Cuban architecture ever produced. Inscribed in their curved walls is the story of a revolution and its legacy.

An hour before sunset, a light breeze rustles the leaves of the tropical trees that are slowly encroaching on the site. The bleating of sheep carries through the warm air, along with the melodic notes of a distant trumpet. It's easy to picture the setting as it would have looked in January 1961, when Fidel Castro and Che Guevara met for a round of golf at Havana's Country Club Park, an exclusive golf course built in 1914 and improved during the following decades as Cuba became a playground for the US, filled with millionaires' mansions and mob-owned hotels and casinos. By the end of their visit to the club, the revolutionaries had decided to repurpose its rolling lawns and make them the site of five art schools that would provide free education to students from all over Latin America.

Education was one of the first priorities of the Cuban Revolution, which ended in 1959, and art was perceived as its pinnacle, reflecting the utopian ideals of the country's new society. Castro chose a local architect named Ricardo Porro to begin designing the schools. Porro enlisted the help of two Italian architects he met in Venezuela, Vittorio Garatti and Roberto Gottardi. All three were in their early 30s, as were the leaders of the revolution. The architects believed passionately in communism, the revolution and the new social order it championed.

Porro, a sculptor, decided to design the School of Plastic Arts and the School of Modern Dance. Garatti, who had a background in music, was responsible for the School of Ballet and the School of Music, while Gottardi chose to design the School of Dramatic Arts.

Garatti wanted students to climb on the roofs of his ballet school. Photo by India Stoughton
Garatti wanted students to climb on the roofs of his ballet school. Photo by India Stoughton

"At the beginning, they were given carte blanche and told that money was no object," says Norma Barbacci, an expert in architectural preservation who has been involved in the fight to save the buildings for more than 20 years and until recently worked at the World Monuments Fund, overseeing the inclusion of the Cuban schools on the organisation's Watch List in 2000, 2002 and 2016.

"All the schools are different. Porro, for example, was fascinated by this idea of anthropomorphic images and Afro-­Cuban culture, so his School of Plastic Arts is spectacular … very sculptural, voluptuous. There's nothing mass produced about them. They are just magical places, like nothing you've seen before."

Due to a trade embargo imposed in 1960, importing steel and cement into Cuba from the US was impossible. Instead, the architects designed their schools using local brick and terracotta, seeking help from an old Spanish architect who taught them a technique known as the "Catalan vault". By sandwiching together up to seven layers of thin brick with cement, the architects were able to create a material that was light and versatile, yet incredibly strong, allowing them to build soaring domes and towering arches using nothing but local materials.

The buildings were designed and constructed quickly – but not quickly enough. By 1965, as Cuba grew closer to the Soviet Union, attitudes towards architecture became more utilitarian. The art schools were branded an elitist indulgence, driven by an individualist ideology that was not in keeping with the communist spirit. Although only Porro's schools were finished, construction was halted.

Architectural preservation expert Norma Barbacci. Pilar Rubi
Architectural preservation expert Norma Barbacci. Pilar Rubi

Felipe Dulzaides, a Cuban artist who studied in Gottardi's unfinished theatre school in the 1980s, says the art schools encapsulate the spirit of Cuba in a way no other buildings ever have. "What the people who criticised it didn't know is that this was really the biggest monument to the revolution and to the utopian ideal and the beauty and the energy of the revolution, at the beginning," Dulzaides says.

While Porro's art and dance schools remain in use today, the three buildings designed by the Italian architects have fallen into ruin. Porro and Garrati left Cuba for Europe. Only Gottardi remained.

Several attempts to renovate or complete the buildings, some led by the Cuban state and others by charities and individuals, have been unsuccessful. The complications regarding what should be done with the buildings are evidenced by the fact even the three original architects had differing views. While Porro and Garatti wanted to adhere to their original visions, Gottardi came up with several new designs for his building before his death, striving to reflect the way that both he and revolutionary Cuba had changed since the 1960s.

When Dulzaides and I sneak through the fence at the site one peaceful evening, it's easy to see why the buildings have captivated so many artists. They were largely forgotten until 1999, when American architect John Loomis published Revolution of Forms: Cuba's Forgotten Art Schools, a book that told the tragic story of the architects and their vision. In the intervening years, they have inspired a documentary and an opera, as well as three conceptual art videos and a plethora of other works by Dulzaides.

The artist estimates he has visited the site more than 100 times but he remains enthusiastic, as if discovering it for the first time, as he introduces me to Garatti's ballet school, which seamlessly combines beauty, function and ideology. The building has five entrances, because the revolution was open in all directions, Dulzaides explains, and takes the form of a playful curving maze, spiralling and turning back on itself, offsetting womblike underground spaces with airy domes. It's as if Garatti studied the essence of ballet and then translated it into brick and cement, light and space. The movement of the building seems to pull you upward – like a dancer leaping skyward, Dulzaides says.

We wend our way up a gently sloping wall and across a series of tiled arches that form a sculptural roof over the curving corridor below. Garatti wanted students to use every bit of the space, Dulzaides explains, intending them to clamber up and dance their way across the rooftops. Water was designed to flow throughout the building, creating constant movement.

"He assembled a building that challenged so many things," he says. "It's a building without a facade, a building with no doors, open in all directions. The craft of how this building was executed is extraordinary."

Garatti wanted water to flow through his ballet school. India Stoughton
Garatti wanted water to flow through his ballet school. India Stoughton

Regardless of whether they are ever completed, the fate of the schools is bound up with Cuba's past and its future. The history of the art schools reflects a key shift in the thinking of the revolution's leaders that resonates to this day. The moment Castro ceased to view the schools as works of art and began to see them as symbols of bourgeois indulgence marked a shift in the Cuban state's view of architects and their roles in society. No longer considered artists, they became engineers, whose work should place function before artistry.

Half a decade on, the struggle of Cuba’s architects to achieve recognition as artists continues. As long as the art schools remain standing, they have a crucial role to play in that fight.

Dust and sand storms compared

Sand storm

  • Particle size: Larger, heavier sand grains
  • Visibility: Often dramatic with thick "walls" of sand
  • Duration: Short-lived, typically localised
  • Travel distance: Limited 
  • Source: Open desert areas with strong winds

Dust storm

  • Particle size: Much finer, lightweight particles
  • Visibility: Hazy skies but less intense
  • Duration: Can linger for days
  • Travel distance: Long-range, up to thousands of kilometres
  • Source: Can be carried from distant regions
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Indian origin executives leading top technology firms

Sundar Pichai

Chief executive, Google and Alphabet

Satya Nadella

Chief executive, Microsoft

Ajaypal Singh Banga

President and chief executive, Mastercard

Shantanu Narayen

Chief executive, chairman, and president, Adobe

Indra Nooyi  

Board of directors, Amazon and former chief executive, PepsiCo

 

 

Chinese Grand Prix schedule (in UAE time)

Friday: First practice - 6am; Second practice - 10am

Saturday: Final practice - 7am; Qualifying - 10am

Sunday: Chinese Grand Prix - 10.10am

UEFA CHAMPIONS LEAGUE FIXTURES

All kick-off times 10.45pm UAE ( 4 GMT) unless stated

Tuesday
Sevilla v Maribor
Spartak Moscow v Liverpool
Manchester City v Shakhtar Donetsk
Napoli v Feyenoord
Besiktas v RB Leipzig
Monaco v Porto
Apoel Nicosia v Tottenham Hotspur
Borussia Dortmund v Real Madrid

Wednesday
Basel v Benfica
CSKA Moscow Manchester United
Paris Saint-Germain v Bayern Munich
Anderlecht v Celtic
Qarabag v Roma (8pm)
Atletico Madrid v Chelsea
Juventus v Olympiakos
Sporting Lisbon v Barcelona

Manchester United v Liverpool

Premier League, kick off 7.30pm (UAE)

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Know before you go
  • Jebel Akhdar is a two-hour drive from Muscat airport or a six-hour drive from Dubai. It’s impossible to visit by car unless you have a 4x4. Phone ahead to the hotel to arrange a transfer.
  • If you’re driving, make sure your insurance covers Oman.
  • By air: Budget airlines Air Arabia, Flydubai and SalamAir offer direct routes to Muscat from the UAE.
  • Tourists from the Emirates (UAE nationals not included) must apply for an Omani visa online before arrival at evisa.rop.gov.om. The process typically takes several days.
  • Flash floods are probable due to the terrain and a lack of drainage. Always check the weather before venturing into any canyons or other remote areas and identify a plan of escape that includes high ground, shelter and parking where your car won’t be overtaken by sudden downpours.

 

Manchester United's summer dealings

In

Victor Lindelof (Benfica) £30.7 million

Romelu Lukaku (Everton)  £75 million

Nemanja Matic (Chelsea)  £40 million

 

Out

Zlatan Ibrahimovic Released

Wayne Rooney (Everton) Free transfer

Adnan Januzaj (Real Sociedad) £9.8 million

 

 

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Sri Lanka's T20I squad

Thisara Perera (captain), Dilshan Munaweera, Danushka Gunathilaka, Sadeera Samarawickrama, Ashan Priyanjan, Mahela Udawatte, Dasun Shanaka, Sachith Pathirana, Vikum Sanjaya, Lahiru Gamage, Seekkuge Prasanna, Vishwa Fernando, Isuru Udana, Jeffrey Vandersay and Chathuranga de Silva.

England ODI squad

Eoin Morgan (captain), Moeen Ali, Jonny Bairstow, Jake Ball, Sam Billings, Jos Buttler, Tom Curran, Alex Hales, Liam Plunkett, Adil Rashid, Joe Root, Jason Roy, Ben Stokes, David Willey, Chris Woakes, Mark Wood.

The 12 Syrian entities delisted by UK 

Ministry of Interior
Ministry of Defence
General Intelligence Directorate
Air Force Intelligence Agency
Political Security Directorate
Syrian National Security Bureau
Military Intelligence Directorate
Army Supply Bureau
General Organisation of Radio and TV
Al Watan newspaper
Cham Press TV
Sama TV

Some of Darwish's last words

"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008

His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.

Global state-owned investor ranking by size

1.

United States

2.

China

3.

UAE

4.

Japan

5

Norway

6.

Canada

7.

Singapore

8.

Australia

9.

Saudi Arabia

10.

South Korea

The specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo

Power: 261hp at 5,500rpm

Torque: 405Nm at 1,750-3,500rpm

Transmission: 9-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 6.9L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh117,059

Points tally

1. Australia 52; 2. New Zealand 44; 3. South Africa 36; 4. Sri Lanka 35; 5. UAE 27; 6. India 27; 7. England 26; 8. Singapore 8; 9. Malaysia 3

KEY%20DATES%20IN%20AMAZON'S%20HISTORY
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Company%C2%A0profile
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SEMI-FINAL

Monterrey 1 

Funes Mori (14)

Liverpool 2

Keita (11), Firmino (90 1)

Indoor cricket in a nutshell

Indoor Cricket World Cup – Sep 16-20, Insportz, Dubai

16 Indoor cricket matches are 16 overs per side

8 There are eight players per team

There have been nine Indoor Cricket World Cups for men. Australia have won every one.

5 Five runs are deducted from the score when a wickets falls

Batsmen bat in pairs, facing four overs per partnership

Scoring In indoor cricket, runs are scored by way of both physical and bonus runs. Physical runs are scored by both batsmen completing a run from one crease to the other. Bonus runs are scored when the ball hits a net in different zones, but only when at least one physical run is score.

Zones

A Front net, behind the striker and wicketkeeper: 0 runs

B Side nets, between the striker and halfway down the pitch: 1 run

Side nets between halfway and the bowlers end: 2 runs

Back net: 4 runs on the bounce, 6 runs on the full

Profile

Company name: Jaib

Started: January 2018

Co-founders: Fouad Jeryes and Sinan Taifour

Based: Jordan

Sector: FinTech

Total transactions: over $800,000 since January, 2018

Investors in Jaib's mother company Alpha Apps: Aramex and 500 Startups

Auron Mein Kahan Dum Tha

Starring: Ajay Devgn, Tabu, Shantanu Maheshwari, Jimmy Shergill, Saiee Manjrekar

Director: Neeraj Pandey

Rating: 2.5/5

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Specs

Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request

F1 drivers' standings

1. Lewis Hamilton, Mercedes 281

2. Sebastian Vettel, Ferrari 247

3. Valtteri Bottas, Mercedes 222

4. Daniel Ricciardo, Red Bull 177

5. Kimi Raikkonen, Ferrari 138

6. Max Verstappen, Red Bull 93

7. Sergio Perez, Force India 86

8. Esteban Ocon, Force India 56

KEY DEVELOPMENTS IN MARITIME DISPUTE

2000: Israel withdraws from Lebanon after nearly 30 years without an officially demarcated border. The UN establishes the Blue Line to act as the frontier.

2007: Lebanon and Cyprus define their respective exclusive economic zones to facilitate oil and gas exploration. Israel uses this to define its EEZ with Cyprus

2011: Lebanon disputes Israeli-proposed line and submits documents to UN showing different EEZ. Cyprus offers to mediate without much progress.

2018: Lebanon signs first offshore oil and gas licencing deal with consortium of France’s Total, Italy’s Eni and Russia’s Novatek.

2018-2019: US seeks to mediate between Israel and Lebanon to prevent clashes over oil and gas resources.

The specs

Engine: Dual 180kW and 300kW front and rear motors

Power: 480kW

Torque: 850Nm

Transmission: Single-speed automatic

Price: From Dh359,900 ($98,000)

On sale: Now

TEST SQUADS

Bangladesh: Mushfiqur Rahim (captain), Tamim Iqbal, Soumya Sarkar, Imrul Kayes, Liton Das, Shakib Al Hasan, Mominul Haque, Nasir Hossain, Sabbir Rahman, Mehedi Hasan, Shafiul Islam, Taijul Islam, Mustafizur Rahman and Taskin Ahmed.

Australia: Steve Smith (captain), David Warner, Ashton Agar, Hilton Cartwright, Pat Cummins, Peter Handscomb, Matthew Wade, Josh Hazlewood, Usman Khawaja, Nathan Lyon, Glenn Maxwell, Matt Renshaw, Mitchell Swepson and Jackson Bird.

MATCH INFO

Bangla Tigers 108-5 (10 ovs)

Ingram 37, Rossouw 26, Pretorius 2-10

Deccan Gladiators 109-4 (9.5 ovs)

Watson 41, Devcich 27, Wiese 2-15

Gladiators win by six wickets

England's all-time record goalscorers:
Wayne Rooney 53
Bobby Charlton 49
Gary Lineker 48
Jimmy Greaves 44
Michael Owen 40
Tom Finney 30
Nat Lofthouse 30
Alan Shearer 30
Viv Woodward 29
Frank Lampard 29