Night-walkers at 3am, at JBR, Dubai. Research is growing into the relationship between our cities and night.  Pawan Singh / The National.
Night-walkers at 3am, at JBR, Dubai. Research is growing into the relationship between our cities and night. Pawan Singh / The National.

A nocturnal reverie: how the UAE’s cities transform at night



When it comes to fathoming the shadowy secrets and dark mysteries that define the urban condition, writers and artists have often ventured out after dark.

“Cities, like cats, will reveal themselves at night,” wrote the English war poet Rupert Brooke.

The list of nocturnal explorers is as illustrious as it is long, and includes the opium-eating essayist Thomas De Quincey; the novelist Virginia Woolf; the filmmaker Jules Dassin, director of Night and the City; and the artist Edward Hopper, painter of Nighthawks, one of art history's most famous portraits of urban anomie.

The recognisably modern tradition of aesthetically-driven noctambulation really began in the 19th century however, when the illumination of cities brought about what the historian Joachim Schlör has described as “a new relationship with the night”.

It was at that point, just as Baron Haussmann was embarking on Napoleon III's plans to transform Paris with new boulevards, parks, sewers and gaslight, that Baudelaire, the celebrated poet of Parisian modernity, began to traverse the rapidly-urbanising city's new demi-monde in his celebrated 1857 volume Fleurs du Mal. This was at almost exactly the same time as an insomniac Charles Dickens, driven by what he described as a sensation of "houselessness", was embarking on the nocturnal ramblings that eventually formed the basis of his essay, Night Walks.

Within a mere 50 years however, it was photographers who began to play an increasingly important role in recording the transformative and often phantasmagoric nature of the modern city at night.

In 1904, Hermann Drawe began to explore Vienna’s inhabited labyrinth of underground tunnels and sewers, revealing a previously-unseen criminal underworld, while the night-time streets of interwar Paris were famously captured by photographers such as Robert Doisneau and the émigrés Ilse Bing, André Kertész and Brassaï.

Another outsider, the Hamburg-born Bill Brandt, did something similar with his second book, A Night in London (1938), establishing an alternative way of seeing the British capital that continues in the contemporary images of another German-born, London-based photographer, Rut Blees Luxemburg.

Now a reader in urban aesthetics at the Royal College of Art, Luxemburg’s nocturnal images of London investigate its marginal and seemingly abandoned public landscapes, and their sodium-drenched beauty has featured on album covers by musical acts such as Bloc Party and The Streets.

Thanks to a forthcoming conference at Harvard University, After Dark: Nocturnal Landscapes and Public Spaces in the Arabian Peninsula, it is clear that the UAE's urban spaces are now also subject to a similar and growing body of research into the complex relationship between its cities and the night's transforming veil.

Almost half of the academics and architects participating in the event have a direct link with the UAE, including Ahmed Kanna, author of Dubai, The City as Corporation, and the Al Ain-based academic and urban researcher Yasser Elsheshtawy, curator of the UAE National Pavilion at the 15th Venice Architecture Biennale.

One panel discussion, titled New Nocturnal Landscapes, is composed solely of UAE-based architects such as X Architects' Ahmed Al-Ali and Farid Esmaeil and Steven Velegrinis, an associate principal with Perkins+Will.

Velegrinis's talk, Dissociative Identities and Nocturnal Landscapes in the Gulf borrows a medical term associated with mental illness to identify the issues that define the dark matter of the UAE's urban open spaces.

“You have the dual influence here of the climate and the work culture that add to the significance of night-time spaces,” the Australian architect explains of an employment model in which the vast majority of the population works during the day and even at weekends.

“We often think about a very narrow band of white-collar expatriate workers when we are designing, but that’s really only 10 per cent of the population,” he says, referring to consumption-oriented and exclusionary developments such as Dubai’s City Walk or The Walk at Jumeirah Beach Residence (JBR). “We need to promote design that’s inclusive and that doesn’t cater to the needs of one demographic group. We really want to have spaces where everyone feels comfortable.”

If Velegrinis’s aspirations are in tune with the work of his fellow speakers such as Elsheshtawy, who has spent almost a decade mapping how migrant workers use and experience the country’s urban landscapes, then it is also mirrored in the work of a writer who is fast establishing a reputation as the labourer’s laureate.

In his recently published Temporary People, Deepak Unnikrishnan tells a series of fantastical tales about the mostly-South Asian foreign nationals who comprise more than half the population of the UAE.

In one story, Birds, a female character cycles around construction sites each night, healing workers who have fallen from buildings, with compassion and sticky tape.

“Anna had a superb track record for finding fallen men… She found everything, including teeth, bits of skin,” Unnikrishnan writes, neatly turning the tables on the Victorian notion of a nocturnal male saviour rescuing “fallen” women.

But when it comes to thinking about the UAE's outdoor space, it is Unnikrishnan's description of the country's leisure-class that resonates most."Men and women made entirely of liquid, who had little children... made entirely of liquid," Unnikrishnan writes in Water, from 2014.

“At dusk they emerge, exploring a more manageable climate, to partake in its nightlife, to eat at restaurants, to host dinners, to hold hands in the park, to play games, to kiss and not get caught, to teach their children how to ride bicycles. Before dawn, they disappear, only to return the following day.”

Nick Leech is a feature writer at The National.

Confirmed bouts (more to be added)

Cory Sandhagen v Umar Nurmagomedov
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Michael Chiesa v Tony Ferguson
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Tickets for the August 3 Fight Night, held in partnership with the Department of Culture and Tourism Abu Dhabi, went on sale earlier this month, through www.etihadarena.ae and www.ticketmaster.ae.

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The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

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The biog

Favourite books: 'Ruth Bader Ginsburg: A Life' by Jane D. Mathews and ‘The Moment of Lift’ by Melinda Gates

Favourite travel destination: Greece, a blend of ancient history and captivating nature. It always has given me a sense of joy, endless possibilities, positive energy and wonderful people that make you feel at home.

Favourite pastime: travelling and experiencing different cultures across the globe.

Favourite quote: “In the future, there will be no female leaders. There will just be leaders” - Sheryl Sandberg, COO of Facebook.

Favourite Movie: Mona Lisa Smile 

Favourite Author: Kahlil Gibran

Favourite Artist: Meryl Streep

COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Xpanceo

Started: 2018

Founders: Roman Axelrod, Valentyn Volkov

Based: Dubai, UAE

Industry: Smart contact lenses, augmented/virtual reality

Funding: $40 million

Investor: Opportunity Venture (Asia)

Company profile

Date started: January 2022
Founders: Omar Abu Innab, Silvia Eldawi, Walid Shihabi
Based: Dubai
Sector: PropTech / investment
Employees: 40
Stage: Seed
Investors: Multiple

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His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.

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Overall leader: Primoz Roglic SLO (Team Jumbo - Visma)

Stage winners: 1. Fernando Gaviria COL (UAE Team Emirates) 2. Elia Viviani ITA (Deceuninck - Quick-Step) 3. Caleb Ewan AUS (Lotto - Soudal)

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Price: base / as tested: Dh335,000

Engine: 5.6-litre V8

Gearbox: Seven-speed automatic

Power: 400hp @ 5,800rpm

Torque: 560Nm @ 4,000rpm

Fuel economy, combined: 12.1L / 100km

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Director: Michael O’Shea

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If you go

The flights
Emirates and Etihad fly direct to Nairobi, with fares starting from Dh1,695. The resort can be reached from Nairobi via a 35-minute flight from Wilson Airport or Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, or by road, which takes at least three hours.

The rooms
Rooms at Fairmont Mount Kenya range from Dh1,870 per night for a deluxe room to Dh11,000 per night for the William Holden Cottage.

COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Haltia.ai
Started: 2023
Co-founders: Arto Bendiken and Talal Thabet
Based: Dubai, UAE
Industry: AI
Number of employees: 41
Funding: About $1.7 million
Investors: Self, family and friends

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Russia v Scotland, Thursday, 10.45pm (UAE)

TV: Match on BeIN Sports 

Company profile

Company: Wafeq
Started: January 2019
Founder: Nadim Alameddine
Based: Dubai, UAE
Industry:
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Funds raised: $3 million
Investors: Raed Ventures and Wamda, among others

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Stars: Ana de Armas, Adrien Brody, Bobby Cannavale
Rating: 3/5

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4. Shahada

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MATCH INFO

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Leeds United 2 (Cooper 41'; Dallas 73')

Man of the match: Scott McTominay (Manchester United)

Company Profile

Name: HyveGeo
Started: 2023
Founders: Abdulaziz bin Redha, Dr Samsurin Welch, Eva Morales and Dr Harjit Singh
Based: Cambridge and Dubai
Number of employees: 8
Industry: Sustainability & Environment
Funding: $200,000 plus undisclosed grant
Investors: Venture capital and government

ANDROID VERSION NAMES, IN ORDER

Android Alpha

Android Beta

Android Cupcake

Android Donut

Android Eclair

Android Froyo

Android Gingerbread

Android Honeycomb

Android Ice Cream Sandwich

Android Jelly Bean

Android KitKat

Android Lollipop

Android Marshmallow

Android Nougat

Android Oreo

Android Pie

Android 10 (Quince Tart*)

Android 11 (Red Velvet Cake*)

Android 12 (Snow Cone*)

Android 13 (Tiramisu*)

Android 14 (Upside Down Cake*)

Android 15 (Vanilla Ice Cream*)

* internal codenames

MATCH INFO

Who: UAE v USA
What: first T20 international
When: Friday, 2pm
Where: ICC Academy in Dubai