Police arrested last year the former Maldives president Mohamed Nasheed, centre left, the country's first democratically-elected president, after he failed to turn up for the start of a trial for abuse of power. Ho / AFP
Police arrested last year the former Maldives president Mohamed Nasheed, centre left, the country's first democratically-elected president, after he failed to turn up for the start of a trial for abusShow more

Maldives' political and social turmoil boils beneath its tranquil crystalline waters



Ahmed fears for the life of the Maldives' first democratically elected president and well-known environmental campaigner, who is now fighting for re-election a year after a violent uprising forced him from power. And Ahmed should know - he says he was once offered the contract to carry out his assassination.

Picture the Maldives, and you're probably imagining crystalline waters and perfectly groomed white beaches. Yet outside the five-star resorts, real life is very different and the image of an idyllic paradise has been tarnished by the growing problems of gang violence, drug addiction, unemployment, political corruption and religious extremism.

Having been one of the most notorious members of one of the country's most feared gangs, Ahmed (not his real name) knows this side of the Maldives all too well. We meet in the cramped one-bedroom "apartment" he shares with his parents and two siblings. Apartment is a stretch - it's a small room down a dingy ground-floor corridor, walls painted a lurid green, with an extended bunk bed that somehow accommodates all five of them and takes up most of the space.

This is how many people live in Malé, the capital. It's home to a third of the population - more than 110,000 people - but isn't much bigger than some modern shopping malls. You can walk round the entire perimeter in less than an hour. Little wonder that Ahmed, like most young people here, chose to spend his adolescence out on the streets, looking for something to do. He found diversion in the form of heroin, cannabis and bottles of alcohol smuggled out of the tourist resorts that had mushroomed in the 1990s. That's when the first gangs started to form.

"It really started with a kabbadi [a wrestling sport played in South Asia] tournament in 1996," says Ahmed, now 32 and trying to go straight. "Until the tournament, people said they were in gangs, but it was just kids having fights. Sometimes we would slash at each other with knives but only to injure them. But the kabbadi competition got very heated, and one kid was stabbed and killed. That took it to a whole new level … Then the politicians got involved, and it turned from gang violence into organised crime."

In 2006, a leading politician allegedly offered Ahmed a contract to kill "or severely injure" Mohamed Nasheed, the man who was trying to bring down the 30-year authoritarian rule of Maumoon Gayoom. Local politicians and elites had been using the gangs to run their drug and alcohol operations on the streets for several years by this point. Street fights over territory and girls were leading to nine or 10 deaths a year.

Ahmed won't talk about the violence in his past, though at one stage he draws me a picture of the knives he used to carry at all times (guns, mercifully, have yet to make it to Maldives). "This is my favourite," he says, pointing at a serrated blade that looks like a Christmas tree in his sketch.

But the contract to kill Nasheed was a step too far, even for Ahmed. "If I have a problem with you I might hurt you or stab you," he tells me in his depressing home. "I didn't want to hurt a person that had done nothing to me. Anyway, Nasheed was very popular at that time. The whole youth was with him."

Nasheed survived and led a protest movement that ultimately forced the country's first ever democratic elections in 2008, which he won. The gangs survived, too, and the tumultuous years before and after the elections brought them plenty of business. The dictatorship had been replaced by a rash of political parties, whose battles were fought on the street as much as in parliament.

"The contracts would come from one political party one day, another one the next day. They would give a huge amount of money to us to throw things at the police, just make havoc," says Mohamed (not his real name), 28, another former gang member and recovering heroin addict. He says a gang could earn 20,000 rufiyaa (Dh7,300) for smashing up a target's car, with the leader getting half and the rest divided among lower members. "They often wanted us to set fires to distract the police while they held a rally. Sometimes, they gave us names of people they wanted beaten up."

Spokesmen for all the major political parties have previously denied accusations that they fund gang violence. Although the gang members I spoke to cited specific individuals, they cannot be named for legal reasons and all turned down my interview requests.

The former regime and its supporters were none too pleased with being ousted, and Nasheed made few friends among the wealthy resort owners when he introduced a new tourism tax. Until 2011, the tourism industry had been valued at about US$700 million (Dh2.57 billion); the new tax showed it to be worth nearer to $3bn. The excess had apparently been disappearing into offshore accounts.

But Nasheed had a huge following among ordinary citizens at home and an excellent reputation abroad, where he had led tireless campaigns against climate change. The Maldives is vulnerable to even a small rise in sea levels, since the highest point on any of its 1,192 islands is just 2.4 metres. In 2007, the UN Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change warned that the expected rise in sea levels over the coming century would leave the Maldives virtually uninhabitable. Nasheed travelled the world to raise awareness about the threat to his country, and used stunts such as the world's first underwater cabinet meeting in 2009 to sign a document calling for cuts in global carbon emissions.

Unlike other parties, Nasheed's Maldivian Democratic Party (MDP) had considered policies at home, too - housing for the poor, treatment programmes for drug addicts, and letting residents on inhabited islands open guest houses (previously banned) so they could earn a share of the tourism revenue.To combat his popularity, the old regime turned to the radical clerics and began to paint Nasheed as an enemy of Islam. Under the dictatorship, Gayoom had kept religious extremists on a tight leash. If they became too inflammatory, a favourite tactic of the police was to drag them to jail, shave off their beards and rub chilli oil on their faces. But once out of power, the clerics became a useful tool against Nasheed and his democracy movement.

Radical Islamists whipped the masses into a religious fury with claims that Nasheed was going to tear down mosques and replace them with Christian churches, and would let Israel use the Maldives' international airport as a staging post "to bomb Arab countries".

It worked - the protests grew increasingly violent, a section of the police mutinied, and on February 7, 2012 a mob surrounded the army headquarters where Nasheed was trying to rally the army. "I looked out of the window and I could see the crowd passing a rope through the crowd," Nasheed told me recently. "They were shouting, 'Hang him! Lynch him!'"

As a student, Nasheed had studied the lynching of the country's first republican president Amin Didi by a mob in 1953.

"I had spent a lot of time thinking about what was going through Amin's mind in those last moments. I learnt the lesson that it wasn't worth going through that." Instead, he agreed to resign.

Within hours, a new government had been installed under Mohammed Waheed, Nasheed's former vice-president. To no one's surprise, several members of the former government were given cabinet posts, including the son and daughter of the former dictator.

The old order were back in power, but they had unleashed powerful and terrible forces on the country. On the same day as the coup, a mob burst into the National Museum and trashed a priceless collection of ancient Buddhist artefacts. In the following months, a member of parliament who had campaigned against religious extremism was stabbed to death in broad daylight.

The extremists, buying into their own rhetoric about the airport, also forced the government to boot out the Indian company, GMR, that was operating and modernising it - a move that could end up crippling the Maldivian economy.

"The airport development could have made millions for the government, according to the assessment of its own auditor general," says JJ Robinson, a journalist with the local website Minivan News.

"Instead, they face a compensation claim from GMR of up to $1.4 billion, not including the $160 million in guarantees called in by GMR's lenders. As of June, the government had $300 million left in central bank reserves, and $35 million in unpaid electricity bills."

Under pressure from the international community, the government has agreed to fresh elections in September. This worries those currently in power, who see Nasheed's popularity and fear that they may face repercussions should he return to power. To stop him competing, his opponents have urged the police to jail Nasheed, using the pretext that he over-stepped his presidential remit when he ordered the arrest of a judge in his final weeks in power. Nasheed was duly arrested in October last year and again in March but is currently free while he waits for his trial to begin.

One of those who is most determined to see Nasheed barred from contesting the presidency is Abdulla Yameen, his main challenger in September's election.

Yameen represents the party set up by the former dictator, the Progressive Party of Maldives (PPM); he is also Gayoom's half-brother. In the mid-2000s, Yameen was involved in one of the more unsavoury scandals to emerge in the country, when he allegedly oversaw the secret sale of oil to the military junta in Myanmar at a time when that country was under heavy international sanctions for the brutal repression of its citizens.

An investigation by Grant Thornton, a forensic accountancy firm, found that the State Trading Organisation (STO), which was headed by Yameen until 2005, bought fuel from Shell Eastern, the Singapore Petroleum Company and Petronas far in excess of the country's needs. Hundreds of ships destined for the Maldives never arrived.

According to Grant Thornton, much of the oil was sold at a black market premium to Myanmar's military junta through a Malaysian intermediary.

Grant Thornton, which based its report on information leaked from the Maldives' President's Office, says shipping manifests and accounts were manipulated to disguise a money-laundering operation worth an estimated $800 million between 2002 and 2008.

The report accused both Yameen and Gayoom of direct connivance with Myanmar officials to sell oil diverted from Singapore. Although Yameen stepped down as chairman of the STO in 2005, debit notes found by investigators in Singapore showed payments made from the STO to his account in 2007 and 2008. He denies the allegations.

Yameen turned down my repeated requests for an interview, but he has previously told Minivan News that such trading was not illegal as STO Singapore was an "entrepreneurial" trade organisation that was licensed to trade in goods as well as supply the needs of the STO: "Even now the STO buys from one country and sells to those in need," he said at the time of the report's release in 2011. There were repeated attempts to prosecute him on corruption charges during Nasheed's rule, but these were put on hold following the change of government.

Despite concerted attempts to put Nasheed on trial, international pressure appears to be getting in the way. In February, a UN special rapporteur on the independence of judges and lawyers, Gabriela Knaul, visited the Maldives and wrote a report on the judicial system, in which she sharply criticised Nasheed's trial. "It is indeed difficult to understand why one former president is being tried for an act he took outside of his prerogative, while another has not had to answer for any of the alleged human rights violations documented over the years," she wrote.

Knaul was particularly scornful of the way in which a special three-judge court was set up to hear Nasheed's case, with the judges appointed by a committee that includes some of Nasheed's political rivals, including a presidential candidate and wealthy resort tycoon, Gasim Ibrahim.

Fortunately for Nasheed, the way in which the court was established allowed his defence team to file a challenge, claiming the trial lacks legitimacy; in the meantime, he has been free to campaign.

The European Union has also provided support, with remarks in March that it would be "difficult" to consider the upcoming elections credible unless Nasheed is allowed to contest.

External political pressure appears to have worked. Questions have been raised within the country about the legality of the trial and it now looks certain to be delayed past tomorrow, when the candidates are officially announced for the elections and gain immunity from prosecution.

The current president, Waheed, is unlikely to provide much competition. Siding with the hardline Islamists brings few supporters. The local Anti-Corruption Commission released a report in June showing that 85 per cent of his party's members (political parties in the Maldives must have at least 10,000 members to qualify for elections) are either bogus or dead.

Yameen is more popular, but he lacks Nasheed's rock-star status and democratic credentials. Nasheed is far from perfect. It was, for example, his party's failure to get tough with the judiciary in the early years of his rule that allowed the corruption and inefficiency of the courts to spread. Many have accused his supporters of resorting to the same rough tactics as other parties. But his leading opponent comes from a party run by a former dictator - a man accused of illegally detaining and torturing those who called for democracy for three decades.

"Barring any major mistakes, [Nasheed is] going into the first round of the election with a large and evangelistic support base, while the other side fights between themselves," says Robinson, the reporter for Minivan News. The fear is that power-holders behind the scenes may decide that it is too risky to let Nasheed return to the presidency. Violence and street protests are a likely outcome of the elections, whichever way the results go. In any case, that means more business for the gangs.

"We get work all the time. Sometimes it's in cash, sometimes just a few bottles of vodka will do if we're in the mood," says Naseem, a member of the Massodi gang. We're sat on two battered leather armchairs in a gloomy back alley, a junkie paradise. "There's nothing else to do here. No jobs, no opportunities, no nightlife. The police throw us in jail for nothing. At least with the gangs, you get to belong to something and get some money."

Ahmed has brought me here. He still holds the kudos of his past tough-guy image and he's welcomed with open arms on every street corner. These days, though, he's kicked the drugs and violence and is trying to convince other young men to do the same. But he knows the temptations that are out there.

"Before the elections, this country is going to explode," he tells me. "The gangs are going to get a lot of work as the politicians fight it out on the streets. People are going to get rich."

Eric Randolph is a freelance journalist and security analyst covering Asia.

The specs
 
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
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Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
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Transmission: 8-speed auto

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Company profile

Name: Infinite8

Based: Dubai

Launch year: 2017

Number of employees: 90

Sector: Online gaming industry

Funding: $1.2m from a UAE angel investor

BMW M5 specs

Engine: 4.4-litre twin-turbo V-8 petrol enging with additional electric motor

Power: 727hp

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Transmission: 8-speed auto

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%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Clinicy%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202017%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Prince%20Mohammed%20Bin%20Abdulrahman%2C%20Abdullah%20bin%20Sulaiman%20Alobaid%20and%20Saud%20bin%20Sulaiman%20Alobaid%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Riyadh%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20staff%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2025%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20HealthTech%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETotal%20funding%20raised%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20More%20than%20%2410%20million%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Middle%20East%20Venture%20Partners%2C%20Gate%20Capital%2C%20Kafou%20Group%20and%20Fadeed%20Investment%3C%2Fp%3E%0A

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

UK's plans to cut net migration

Under the UK government’s proposals, migrants will have to spend 10 years in the UK before being able to apply for citizenship.

Skilled worker visas will require a university degree, and there will be tighter restrictions on recruitment for jobs with skills shortages.

But what are described as "high-contributing" individuals such as doctors and nurses could be fast-tracked through the system.

Language requirements will be increased for all immigration routes to ensure a higher level of English.

Rules will also be laid out for adult dependants, meaning they will have to demonstrate a basic understanding of the language.

The plans also call for stricter tests for colleges and universities offering places to foreign students and a reduction in the time graduates can remain in the UK after their studies from two years to 18 months.

Tree of Hell

Starring: Raed Zeno, Hadi Awada, Dr Mohammad Abdalla

Director: Raed Zeno

Rating: 4/5

The Settlers

Director: Louis Theroux

Starring: Daniella Weiss, Ari Abramowitz

Rating: 5/5

Skewed figures

In the village of Mevagissey in southwest England the housing stock has doubled in the last century while the number of residents is half the historic high. The village's Neighbourhood Development Plan states that 26% of homes are holiday retreats. Prices are high, averaging around £300,000, £50,000 more than the Cornish average of £250,000. The local average wage is £15,458. 

Specs
Engine: Electric motor generating 54.2kWh (Cooper SE and Aceman SE), 64.6kW (Countryman All4 SE)
Power: 218hp (Cooper and Aceman), 313hp (Countryman)
Torque: 330Nm (Cooper and Aceman), 494Nm (Countryman)
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh158,000 (Cooper), Dh168,000 (Aceman), Dh190,000 (Countryman)
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How has net migration to UK changed?

The figure was broadly flat immediately before the Covid-19 pandemic, standing at 216,000 in the year to June 2018 and 224,000 in the year to June 2019.

It then dropped to an estimated 111,000 in the year to June 2020 when restrictions introduced during the pandemic limited travel and movement.

The total rose to 254,000 in the year to June 2021, followed by steep jumps to 634,000 in the year to June 2022 and 906,000 in the year to June 2023.

The latest available figure of 728,000 for the 12 months to June 2024 suggests levels are starting to decrease.

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Rating: 4.5/5

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if you go
While you're here
The specs: 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trackhawk


Price, base: Dh399,999
Engine: Supercharged 6.2-litre V8
Gearbox: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 707hp @ 6,000rpm
Torque: 875Nm @ 4,800rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 16.8L / 100km (estimate)

Ain Issa camp:
  • Established in 2016
  • Houses 13,309 people, 2,092 families, 62 per cent children
  • Of the adult population, 49 per cent men, 51 per cent women (not including foreigners annexe)
  • Most from Deir Ezzor and Raqqa
  • 950 foreigners linked to ISIS and their families
  • NGO Blumont runs camp management for the UN
  • One of the nine official (UN recognised) camps in the region
Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

ICC Women's T20 World Cup Asia Qualifier 2025, Thailand

UAE fixtures
May 9, v Malaysia
May 10, v Qatar
May 13, v Malaysia
May 15, v Qatar
May 18 and 19, semi-finals
May 20, final

What are the influencer academy modules?
  1. Mastery of audio-visual content creation. 
  2. Cinematography, shots and movement.
  3. All aspects of post-production.
  4. Emerging technologies and VFX with AI and CGI.
  5. Understanding of marketing objectives and audience engagement.
  6. Tourism industry knowledge.
  7. Professional ethics.

Various Artists 
Habibi Funk: An Eclectic Selection Of Music From The Arab World (Habibi Funk)
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