The courtyard of the Jerónimos Monastery. Getty Images
The courtyard of the Jerónimos Monastery. Getty Images
The courtyard of the Jerónimos Monastery. Getty Images
The courtyard of the Jerónimos Monastery. Getty Images

My Kind of Place: Belém, Lisbon, Portugal


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Why Belém?

In a gorgeous spot by the riverside, Belém is where Lisbon's historic side shines through the most. The devastating earthquake of 1755 that left large parts of the city in ruins barely touched Belém, and left behind are some of the grandest monuments from Portugal's golden age of discovery.

It also hoards the highlights of Lisbon's cultural collection – an impressive number of museums are concentrated in the area. And, as such, it's full of day-trippers coming from the city centre, then disappearing again at the end of the day.

This could, in theory, give Belém a rather soulless, empty feel. But recent, defiantly modern additions have brought contemporary energy. There is now life between the big attractions, and the beauty has recovered its heartbeat.

The Monument to the Discoveries, which celebrates Portugal’s history of exploration, stands on Belém’s waterfront. Getty Images
The Monument to the Discoveries, which celebrates Portugal’s history of exploration, stands on Belém’s waterfront. Getty Images

A comfortable bed

The best address in the area is the riverside Altis Belém (www.altishotels.com), an ambitiously sleek and blocky modern building which houses a reputable spa as well as a Michelin-starred restaurant. Rooms come with big and bold individually-designed murals, plus balconies either overlooking the gardens or the river. Prices start at €230 (Dh925).

The Jeronimos 8 (www.jeronimos8.com) has design leanings, with furniture that makes self-conscious statements, black leather headboards and a sprawling open-plan lobby. It's the sort of place that shows signs of wear, but asserts a modern character without feeling generic. Doubles cost from €170 (Dh684).

For something a little quirkier, it is possible to stay in boats that have been decked out as apartments via Airbnb (www.airbnb.com). One option – called Boat At Lisbon – comes with dining room, kitchenette and, if desired, sailing tours from €81 (Dh326).

Find your feet

The unmissable star of Belém is the 16th-century JerónimosMonastery (www.mosteirojeronimos.pt), which is the high point of the Manueline gothic architectural style. The cloisters are visually sumptuous and packed with little detail, while there are several art and history exhibits in the rooms surrounding them.

Inside the monastery, but with a separate entrance, is the Maritime Museum (ccm.marinha.pt). The dull part of the museum is brimming with military costumes, model ships and parts of old ships. Mercifully, before that, there's the really interesting section on Portuguese exploration and how it changed the world. It charts the voyages of 15th and 16th century sailors, and the goods they brought home with them from Asia, Africa and South America. It also has some brilliant old maps, drawn when half the world was still a mystery.

From there, saunter over to the Torre de Belém (www.torrebelem.pt), the Manueline fortress from 1515 guards the river while looking rather like a giant chess piece. The views from the top are fab.

Torre de Belém. Getty Images
Torre de Belém. Getty Images

Meet the locals

Lisbon's two great football clubs are Sporting and Benfica, but down in Belém, the support goes to neither. Plucky, perennially hopeless Belenenses play just up the hill from the waterfront at the Estádio do Restelo, where the atmosphere tends to be passionate but grounded.

Book a table

Enoteca de Belém (www.travessadaermida.com) is a seven table joint found on a sidestreet, with a barick barrel-vaulted ceiling and fine dining aspirations. Amuse bouches are brought out between courses, and the €18 (Dh73) beef tenderloin with potato gratin, onion and Portobello mushroom is tremendous.

The Espaco Espelho d' água (espacoespelhodeagua.com) is typical of the new Belém. Part art galley, part cafe, it has deckchairs by pools outside, and a fresh, seafood-heavy menu, with dishes such as grouper with chestnut and olive crust for €17 (Dh69).

Shopper’s paradise

The Cultural Centre of Belém (www.ccb.pt) was built for Portugal's hosting of the European Union presidency in 1992, and is primarily an art and theatre space, but the complex also hosts some excellent shops and galleries.

Towards the rear, Hangar is largely a home decor store, but does a lovely range of colourful bags, trinket boxes, shawls and high-end locally-made toiletries. The shopping star here, though, is Margarida Pimentel's jewellery. Billed as "where jewellery meets art", everything on display is exquisitely curvaceous and memorably non-generic. None of it comes cheap, but every item is a statement piece.

What to avoid

There seems to be some sort of tourist law that states you have to eat a traditional custard tart from the Confeitaria Nacional (www.confeitarianacional.com). It would be churlish to suggest that these tarts are anything other than quite good, but they are not worth the ridiculously long queues. 

Don’t miss

The Cultural Centre of Belém's highlight is the Museu Coleção Berardo (www.museuberardo.pt), which houses business mogul José Berardo's top drawer collection of modern and contemporary art. Warhol, Man Ray, Pollock, Vasarely and Picasso are all represented, but what makes it a must visit for the uninitiated, is the way the works are broken down into various artistic movements. This makes it a lot easier to tell the differences between, for example, pop art, op art, abstract impressionism and cubism.

Getting there

Emirates (www.emirates.com) flies direct from Dubai to Lisbon. Economy class returns cost from Dh3,500.

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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

The biog

From: Ras Al Khaimah

Age: 50

Profession: Electronic engineer, worked with Etisalat for the past 20 years

Hobbies: 'Anything that involves exploration, hunting, fishing, mountaineering, the sea, hiking, scuba diving, and adventure sports'

Favourite quote: 'Life is so simple, enjoy it'

COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3EFounder%3A%20Hani%20Abu%20Ghazaleh%3Cbr%3EBased%3A%20Abu%20Dhabi%2C%20with%20an%20office%20in%20Montreal%3Cbr%3EFounded%3A%202018%3Cbr%3ESector%3A%20Virtual%20Reality%3Cbr%3EInvestment%20raised%3A%20%241.2%20million%2C%20and%20nearing%20close%20of%20%245%20million%20new%20funding%20round%3Cbr%3ENumber%20of%20employees%3A%2012%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Saturday's results

Brighton 1-1 Leicester City
Everton 1-0 Cardiff City
Manchester United 0-0 Crystal Palace
Watford 0-3 Liverpool
West Ham United 0-4 Manchester City

'Nightmare Alley'

Director:Guillermo del Toro

Stars:Bradley Cooper, Cate Blanchett, Rooney Mara

Rating: 3/5

The Travel Diaries of Albert Einstein The Far East, Palestine, and Spain, 1922 – 1923
Editor Ze’ev Rosenkranz
​​​​​​​Princeton

How The Debt Panel's advice helped readers in 2019

December 11: 'My husband died, so what happens to the Dh240,000 he owes in the UAE?'

JL, a housewife from India, wrote to us about her husband, who died earlier this month. He left behind an outstanding loan of Dh240,000 and she was hoping to pay it off with an insurance policy he had taken out. She also wanted to recover some of her husband’s end-of-service liabilities to help support her and her son.

“I have no words to thank you for helping me out,” she wrote to The Debt Panel after receiving the panellists' comments. “The advice has given me an idea of the present status of the loan and how to take it up further. I will draft a letter and send it to the email ID on the bank’s website along with the death certificate. I hope and pray to find a way out of this.”

November 26:  ‘I owe Dh100,000 because my employer has not paid me for a year’

SL, a financial services employee from India, left the UAE in June after quitting his job because his employer had not paid him since November 2018. He owes Dh103,800 on four debts and was told by the panellists he may be able to use the insolvency law to solve his issue. 

SL thanked the panellists for their efforts. "Indeed, I have some clarity on the consequence of the case and the next steps to take regarding my situation," he says. "Hopefully, I will be able to provide a positive testimony soon."

October 15: 'I lost my job and left the UAE owing Dh71,000. Can I return?'

MS, an energy sector employee from South Africa, left the UAE in August after losing his Dh12,000 job. He was struggling to meet the repayments while securing a new position in the UAE and feared he would be detained if he returned. He has now secured a new job and will return to the Emirates this month.

“The insolvency law is indeed a relief to hear,” he says. "I will not apply for insolvency at this stage. I have been able to pay something towards my loan and credit card. As it stands, I only have a one-month deficit, which I will be able to recover by the end of December." 

The Voice of Hind Rajab

Starring: Saja Kilani, Clara Khoury, Motaz Malhees

Director: Kaouther Ben Hania

Rating: 4/5

What is hepatitis?

Hepatitis is an inflammation of the liver, which can lead to fibrosis (scarring), cirrhosis or liver cancer.

There are 5 main hepatitis viruses, referred to as types A, B, C, D and E.

Hepatitis C is mostly transmitted through exposure to infective blood. This can occur through blood transfusions, contaminated injections during medical procedures, and through injecting drugs. Sexual transmission is also possible, but is much less common.

People infected with hepatitis C experience few or no symptoms, meaning they can live with the virus for years without being diagnosed. This delay in treatment can increase the risk of significant liver damage.

There are an estimated 170 million carriers of Hepatitis C around the world.

The virus causes approximately 399,000 fatalities each year worldwide, according to WHO.

 

Tips on buying property during a pandemic

Islay Robinson, group chief executive of mortgage broker Enness Global, offers his advice on buying property in today's market.

While many have been quick to call a market collapse, this simply isn’t what we’re seeing on the ground. Many pockets of the global property market, including London and the UAE, continue to be compelling locations to invest in real estate.

While an air of uncertainty remains, the outlook is far better than anyone could have predicted. However, it is still important to consider the wider threat posed by Covid-19 when buying bricks and mortar. 

Anything with outside space, gardens and private entrances is a must and these property features will see your investment keep its value should the pandemic drag on. In contrast, flats and particularly high-rise developments are falling in popularity and investors should avoid them at all costs.

Attractive investment property can be hard to find amid strong demand and heightened buyer activity. When you do find one, be prepared to move hard and fast to secure it. If you have your finances in order, this shouldn’t be an issue.

Lenders continue to lend and rates remain at an all-time low, so utilise this. There is no point in tying up cash when you can keep this liquidity to maximise other opportunities. 

Keep your head and, as always when investing, take the long-term view. External factors such as coronavirus or Brexit will present challenges in the short-term, but the long-term outlook remains strong. 

Finally, keep an eye on your currency. Whenever currency fluctuations favour foreign buyers, you can bet that demand will increase, as they act to secure what is essentially a discounted property.

HIJRA

Starring: Lamar Faden, Khairiah Nathmy, Nawaf Al-Dhufairy

Director: Shahad Ameen

Rating: 3/5

Avatar: Fire and Ash

Director: James Cameron

Starring: Sam Worthington, Sigourney Weaver, Zoe Saldana

Rating: 4.5/5

Tips for job-seekers
  • Do not submit your application through the Easy Apply button on LinkedIn. Employers receive between 600 and 800 replies for each job advert on the platform. If you are the right fit for a job, connect to a relevant person in the company on LinkedIn and send them a direct message.
  • Make sure you are an exact fit for the job advertised. If you are an HR manager with five years’ experience in retail and the job requires a similar candidate with five years’ experience in consumer, you should apply. But if you have no experience in HR, do not apply for the job.

David Mackenzie, founder of recruitment agency Mackenzie Jones Middle East

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Afghanistan squad

Gulbadin Naib (captain), Mohammad Shahzad (wicketkeeper), Noor Ali Zadran, Hazratullah Zazai, Rahmat Shah, Asghar Afghan, Hashmatullah Shahidi, Najibullah Zadran, Samiullah Shinwari, Mohammad Nabi, Rashid Khan, Dawlat Zadran, Aftab Alam, Hamid Hassan, Mujeeb Ur Rahman.

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